2011 R56 S heading to dealership after the weekend for smoke test, figured I'd see if anyone had any ideas.

Milltek catless downpipe, new gaskets
Alta panel filter (swapping for afe prodry/cleaning maf tomorrow)
Ebay intercooler - I didn't heed the warnings to pressure test before installing, I may have to suck it up and get a name brand if this ends up being the issue
Colder plugs
Alta turbo muffler delete hose
Hpfp couple of months ago

Pretune max boost I would ever see is 12psi monitored with torque app, usually 4th or 5th gear WOT.
After installing catless dp and intercooler without tune, I saw boost up to 14.5 for maybe a day then back to 12psi, I assumed ecu relearning/compensating.
Ran great, renewed performance after new hpfp.

Last weekend I met up with local manic tuner and fellow NAM member for stage 2 tune. Great experience, very accomodating....answered emails for weeks prior . He got the tune loaded - we went for test drive and laid into it a few times and boost wouldn't rise past mid/high 16psi in maps A or B. We tried to tighten everything we could up, was dark by then. Car loves the tune, runs so smooth like stock, if not better.

Next day I crawled under and checked/tightened intercooler connections while cold and hot, clean/oiled the alta filter. Pulled the diverter valve, rubber boot in good shape, plunger moved free i may end up swaping it if smoke test doesnt reveal anything. No change in normal driving If I hold it in 4th or 5th to the floor boost will climb up to mid 17s psi, but I'm into triple digits at that point.

A few days ago I grabbed a can of maf cleaner and hit it, hoping oil from filter may have contaminated maf and skew reading. Didn't change, down poured most of the day so I figured I was safe enough for a quick drive with no air filter, it climbed up to mid 17s quicker but nothing more.

It's by no means a slouch, tune transforms the car completely just want to get it where it should be. Going to check every clamp this weekend again, pull the intake filter housing and get to the ones I havent checked. And any other suggestions.

 

Waste gate might be loose / not sealing tight. I have no idea what kind of boost the OEM turbo produces, but probably should be higher than your 17PSI. Did your Manic installer tell you what to expect? In all 3 maps?

 

I pulled off the intake housing, clamp that connects to the intake manifold took a few turns to feel tight. The next one upstream from there was a pain to get to still, it took maybe a turn or two to feel tight. The last one I checked was after the IC, not the one that connects to it, but the next one up took a turn or two.
Swapped air filter, cleaned maf.
Absolutely no change.

He said he would regularly see 18.5 in map A all day long, without having to do a full pull as I do to get anywhere near there.

Aside from pulling the downpipe back off to check the waste gate swing (internally) is there anything worth checking ? Newb with turbos, but it should be normally closed and held by spring pressure, right? I think I can disconnect the vac can and make sure the gate moves freely. I would be looking for a weak spring in the vac can, it looks for max boost to open the gate?
I have another turbo I can swap the can and arm to see if it changes anything.

 

Without checking my OEM turbo, I'm pretty sure the only thing moving the waste gate is the diaphragm linkage --- no springs. If the linkage is adjusted wrong, the WG will never close tight. If your other turbo isn't hooked up, take a close look at its linkage, its operation isn't difficult to understand.

WG opens when a vacuum is applied to the diaphragm, and closes when vacuum is removed. You want it closed to build boost.

Yes, removing the DP to check WG operation can be painful, but maybe a simple adjustment will fix your problem. And, others have reported defective WG's --- broken, etc. You're lucky to have another turbo available --- WG can't be repaired easily, if at all.

 

I got ya, wasn't sure how it worked.
I took off the upper heat shield and the waste gate does have a little play in it at rest, it could definitely be tightened up to seat the gate at rest, but from doing a few searches it seems pretty common for there to be play. I can move the arm with the plunger attached takes a little bit of force. Tried to break the jam nuts apart but even wrench on inside - socket on the outside it still didn't want to budge , am not really prepared for the "broke the WG wtf do I do now" today so I left it, also overcast raining off and on all day

 

Your " --- little play in it ---" could be why you still get reasonable boost, just not quite what you expect. You should really pull the DP to see if the play goes all the way to the WG itself. A good inspection will help you decide whether or not to mess with the linkage. Maybe try a good brand of "liquid wrench" on the stubborn nuts. Worst case, cut its nuts off (lol) --- these are easily replaced.

 

Yea I agree, could be what's goin on. I don't know if I'll be able to get to it tomorrow but I'll atleast hose those nuts down with some pb blaster.
Thanks again!
I'll prob have shop smoke test it anyway so I can feel better about that side of it

 

Got the arm free of the waste gate, heat+pb blast+little more leverage on 1/4 ratchet. With engine off it does sit open thus play vacuum applied closes it and holds it.
I reset the nuts a little maybe 3/16" closer to being closed , when vacuum applied it should close earlier/tighter.
Didn't change anything notably through first couple gears still max 16.5 psi, WOT 6th I did see boost over 18psi for the first time.
Hopefully, not really, the dealer will find a boost leak tomorrow.

The rest of the day....
Dad's 2014 clubman S was running bad he thought it just needed an air filter, so I messed with it for a bit. air filter was way over due to be changed 64k it may have been changed once, I cleaned up and oiled the alta panel threw it in. Went for a drive and still had a sputter, pulled the codes had multiple cyl misfire, cyl 1 miss, cyl 2 miss code. Starting swapping coils with my car, no change. Pulled plug #1 it was trashed, only thing I had to swap in were the old plugs out of my car (10k miles). The rest of them looked ok. Put it back together. Runs great, torque app says his car makes 16psi

I gave up messing with my car at that point

 

Hi Randeez,

Sounds like between all the work you've done and the smoke check you've covered most all the bases. Not knowing if the gas cap was removed during the smoke check or not the only other thing I can think of to check is the fuel tank vent valve. Next time your down this way let me know. I have a spare vent valve as well as a spare pressure converter we can try.

 

may have to bud,
it's actually still at dealership - I told them to go ahead and change the oil/filter and they found [another] oil leak, in lieu of charging me for the smoke test they are going to fix it, timing chain seal ring.
I emailed the SA late last night and mentioned to check out the tank vent valve if they werent already done with the service work yet.
hasnt called yet...so who knows

 

Got car back, messed with it a little today.

I rigged up a pressure cap, immediately found the intercooler inlet pipe leaking like hell with anything over 5psi. Tore up 4 hose clamps before I found one that I could tighten enough to pass atleast my pressure cap without leaking. I think between the alta muffler delete pipe being so thick and nonstandard size intercooler inlet I'm having to compress the silicone alot. The intercooler connection has plenty of "neck" appox 2" and a bead rolled on the end but it's smooth otherwise. Anyone got a source to order better hose clamps, may ill try a t-clamp?

 

Frozenboost.com

 

Here's one --- http://www.turbohoses.com/Clamp.htm
Another --- http://www.siliconeintakes.com/t-bol...4957afafe7a10a

Just discovered that ATP Turbo uses turboHoses.com for clamps. There's probably others, but these should have what you want.

 

Ordered, thank you gentlemen


Going to try and perfect pressure tester and check the rest of them tomorrow

 

I tested up to about 25psi and couldnt find anymore leaks. I am still suspicious about that intercooler inlet, hopefully the new clamps will put that to rest. i am getting 17.5-18psi much easier though.
I ended up testing connected to the inlet of the turbo -
fernco fitting 1-1/4 x 1-1/2 http://www.homedepot.com/p/1-1-2-in-...-125/100044154
1-1/2 x 1/2" pvc reducer http://www.homedepot.com/p/Charlotte...00HD/203851133
1/2 x 1/4" brass reducing bushing http://www.homedepot.com/p/Sioux-Chi...-202254952-_-N
male quick connect http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-4...-100050587-_-N
using a 90* fitting probably would have helped to get it pointed up but it worked all the same.
while connected and pressurized the only air escaping was through the pcv vent tube, which would normally circulate back into the inlet of the turbo.

 

stillllll not enough boost.
couldnt wait for clamps to be delivered so i found a place locally that had a nice selection in stock. changed in/out on the intercooler and turbo out.
i think its about time look into if the intercooler is inadequate
would putting a boost tap (probably on the intercooler end cap) and comparing pre to post intercooler psi be a good indicator?
i dont mind spending a couple bux for a cheap analog gauge or may know someone with one laying around i can borrow. but i'd rather not buy a helix IC only to find out its not the issue.

or throwing the stock one back on just to see if boost target can be met? but i dont know if it would even flow what is needed to determine anything

 

new diverter valve should be waiting at home for me, took old one out few weeks ago and it looked pretty good so i'm not to hopeful that is the cure - but it does have 70k+ miles on it, sure it cant hurt to swap with the updated design anyway.
If that doesnt work?? pressure converter (aka waste gate control)??
torque logs \/ \/ just show boost flat line in 4th and 5th at 16.5-16.9 vac/boost is highlighted in green, top line is km/h, next one down is air intake temp (at 39*C~102*F) i think ambient was over 90*F at time.

 

I'll keep this going in case anyone else has any ideas...or finds it trying to fix their own issues

Diverter valve swapped
I had second cat replaced with resonator for a few weeks after tune, had some (non audible) leaks but strong odor I wanted to wait to buy full till I had this figured out but:
I ordered the alta downpipe back exhaust. It does have a nice deep tone, I've seen some describe it as subaru-ish that is probably the best description, absolutely no rasp. It wouldn't be loud except for the hellacious drone from like 2k-4k rpm I'm getting, catless dp contributing I'm sure. Going by exhaust shop to see about adding another resonator, swapping the one it has for a larger one, or seeing if they have any ideas. Also need to adjust how tips come out from under car, the ones out further then the other crap.
(See edit below)

Without the high rpm rasp from stock exhaust , I could hear what sounded like popping coming from gas cap area doin high gear pulls (in boost longer) . Grabbed the fuel tank purge valve swapped it out but only had time for a short drive. Pretty sure popping sound is gone, I'll listen for it tomorrow.

As of now I'm seeing 17.5-18 psi pretty regularly, thinking I should just call it good at this point

Edit:
The alta exhaust doesn't drone to bad most of the noise i was gettin was from rubbing/vibration.
When I installed the first section with the hangers would only rotate so far with the hangers on, so that's where I tightened up all the vband clamps.
I got car up on a lift a few days ago and the piping was against the tunnel most of the way back. I took it out of the front hangers and left the vbands just loose enough to rotate but still fairly rigid. Rotated the front section probably 60° to where the hanger one side is pointed down and the other is right next to the peg on the car. I threw one rubber hanger back on that side using the right hole and threw the other side through the center.
Exhaust is very bearable now , slight drone around 3k under light acceleration but cruise has very little. Going to get them cut off and welded back hopefully next week

 

Busy weekend:

 

taking the turbo and manifold off I split the turbo at the band clamp it wasn't to bad. no service mode or anything - was tight in a few spots
The nuts holding the manifold on around cyl 3 and cyl 4 were like literally hand tight, gasket looks like it had been blown out around cyl 4 for sure.
waste gate on old turbo has a lot of slop in it through the housing, i think it has only been bad the past few weeks though, just recently begun to hear the cold metallic chatter in the mornings. Not to much play on the turbo shaft for having 100k+ miles. i'll add some more pics in tomorrow of old

New turbo was a hybrid k03/k04 rebuilt from G-pop shop out of a cooper S core. upgraded manifold, from Waymotorworks, new manifold gasket, new DP gasket - (Way! ya shorted me on the donut between the manifold and turbo but I ran to the dealership and grabbed this morning, NBD just didnt realize I didnt have it until last night when i went to start assembling ) new oil line kit also from wmw.
reassembly wasnt to bad, a lot easier after knowing where everything went.
pulled the plugs to coils and turned it over for bit to get oil moving, started right back up after, let it idle for a bit, checked for leaks, topped off coolant/bled, etc.
Left it in [stage 2] map B, cruised around till it was up to temp gave it a couple good runs. still messing around with it but it builds boost real nice now, just the tip in for 4th/5th gear only take a sec to build full boost. 1st-3rd blow by a little quick to be trying to watch torque the whole time. made a little more boost than before 19ish, but gets there whole lot faster. I took a little throw out of the wastegate, bumped up to a hair over 20psi, i'm going to keep an eye on the afrs and prob take a little more throw out of it.

 

more pics? turbo all nice and snug
I had the hot side ceramic coated before sending it out to be rebuilt, downpipe coating isnt looking so hot so i dont have much hope for it but we shall see
I tried to get a pic of the wastegate of the old turbo, it was so loose that it started to file away at the arm where it rubbed the housing

 

Nicely done. Just out of curiosity how much skin is left on your knuckles lol.

 

I've mastered the one glove method for working on this car. Only a few scrapes

 

I'm glad it worked out well.

Lou was actually helping me on the phone with my turbo issues but I switched to the Alta 56 Billet on their Stage 4 tune.

I'd like to ride in yours and see how the tunes compare cause the Perrin tune for this is very mid range torque heavy and I'm looking for more high end HP. I'm in Sunrise.

Are you on stock clutch? I think mine is starting to slip a bit.

 

Yea it's hurting now tho(stock clutch), I'm actually in sunrise now bout to go grab lunch and head north tho

Haven't touched the tune since turbo swap so the upper range on mine is held back from tuning for stock turbo, I'm guessing it feels better but no where as drastic as the low mid gain from it