OK so hey guys I have a 2011 mcs running a custom tune with around 20 lbs of boost on stock turbo. I was driving the other day when my clutch stayed on the floor. There wasn't any fluid loss but the clutch pedal moves but does not actuate the clutch and does not go down all the way anymore and feels like the clutch or pressure plate failed causing a lock up internally. I was looking on here for more info but what I have been able to find say that almost every aftermarket clutch will not last long and costs a fortune. So I was looking at a stock replacement but I was wondering what you guys thought about the flywheel which seems to be a known issue, is it something I should bite the bullet to replace? and also what you guys think about what happened and possible diagnosis. Any help will be greatly appreciate

Jim

 

You really ought to find out what failed before you go for replacement parts. If it's only linkage and not the clutch / flywheel unit, the cost will be a lot less. However, if you want to upgrade or just replace the whole unit, this would be the time to do it. If you need to disassemble everything to get at it, you might as well be prepared to replace major parts --- minimize labor costs.

I've been running an aftermarket unit for 4 years, problem-free. My ultimate goal was a very hi performance car, so I chose a lightened flywheel and tighter gripping clutch pkg. Costly, yes, and comfort during shifts is sacrificed, but not excessively. With a custom tune and 20PSI boost, you obviously enjoy performance. A light flywheel would be a good mod to compliment an OEM turbo. Light flywheel + BIG turbo = sacrifices! Reliability depends on driving habits --- I do little "in-town" driving, mostly hiway stuff, so less stress on the clutch, but performance is there when wanted. Your choice between OEM and aftermarket should depend on your driving habits and what you want to do with the car.

 

Well. From what I believe happened since I don't believe it's a slave or master cylinder issue so I believe the problem is inside. Everyone who I have asked (mechanics/friends) all say to replace everything if I have to get inside. Which clutch are you running if I might ask? PS. your in town plus highway is about the same for me.

 

OS Giken, STR version, probably the most expensive replacement, but for high performance, well worth it. Think about a limited slip differential while it's all apart. And, maybe replace the rear crankshaft and axle seals --- while you're in there and it's all apart --- good insurance!

 

I had the throw out bearing arm fail on me about 7k miles after I installed the OSGiken clutch. Replace it regardless of what it looks like when you get a new clutch because it is just a cheap piece of stamped steel.

 

Hey so Porthos, turns out that what you called the throwout bearing arm was the culprit although I called it the clutch fork. The clutch was just about to the rivets but other than that the pressure plate was really in good nick, the replaced the DMF with a steel single mass and the JMTurboCoopers stage 2 Kevlar kit. Now I just have one question, the pedal had become incredibly lighter than before, even with the 15%harder pressure plate. The clutch works good so far, (still breaking in). But the pedal feels numb compared to before but I'm wondering whether i may need to re bleed the system or just something I have to get used to since I shed some weight from the DMF and just a different clutch and pressure plate all together.