Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Boost drop

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Mar 16, 2015 | 06:41 AM
  #1  
apardan's Avatar
apardan
Thread Starter
|
1st Gear
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Boost drop

Greetings people,
I have a 2006 r53. Alta cai, Wosner forged pistons (slightly oversized), 16% + 2% pulleys, detroit tuned bypass valve and one ball exhaust. At 5600 rpm i have 16psi then at 6500 rpm i have 14.5 psi and then at the red line i have 17 psi. Any idea why this is happening? I mean shouldnt the boost supposed to gradually increase?
Thanks in advance.
 
Reply
Old Mar 16, 2015 | 08:45 AM
  #2  
TheBigChill's Avatar
TheBigChill
5th Gear
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 774
Likes: 51
From: NY
Is this consistently the case? Are you data-logging or just watching the gauge?

I wouldn't sweat a drop of 1.5psi near redline, though the jump back up is weird. Also, why even rev past 6500RPM?
 
Reply
Old Mar 16, 2015 | 09:01 AM
  #3  
apardan's Avatar
apardan
Thread Starter
|
1st Gear
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by TheBigChill
Is this consistently the case? Are you data-logging or just watching the gauge?

I wouldn't sweat a drop of 1.5psi near redline, though the jump back up is weird. Also, why even rev past 6500RPM?
I am data logging, I think its not normal since there is a drop in boost and then it increases again. Maybe i have high boost at low rpm which is not normal either. Is there a problem when i have 16 psi at 4000-5000rpm? I always thought that the boost should start low and then increase as the rpm goes up, and not starting up high then low and then high again. Isnt that the case?
 
Reply
Old Mar 16, 2015 | 09:05 AM
  #4  
nkfry's Avatar
nkfry
Vendor - Detroit Tuned 15 Years
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,859
Likes: 34
From: Clawson, MI
Originally Posted by apardan
Greetings people,
I have a 2006 r53. Alta cai, Wosner forged pistons (slightly oversized), 16% + 2% pulleys, detroit tuned bypass valve and one ball exhaust. At 5600 rpm i have 16psi then at 6500 rpm i have 14.5 psi and then at the red line i have 17 psi. Any idea why this is happening? I mean shouldnt the boost supposed to gradually increase?
Thanks in advance.
Slightly oversized as in, raised compression?

Are you tuned? If not that is where I would start, as well as running the injectors to compensate for such mods.

There are multiple supporting mods required to run raised compression,especially in a boosted engine, and if you don't have them in place you will cause severe damage.

Originally Posted by TheBigChill
Is this consistently the case? Are you data-logging or just watching the gauge?

I wouldn't sweat a drop of 1.5psi near redline, though the jump back up is weird. Also, why even rev past 6500RPM?
These cars make power higher up in the rev range, high RPM is where SC cars shine. Especially on the Dragon where you need the extra few hundred RPM you get from tuning the car. Being able to rev high and engine brake into the corner is much easier than shifting into 3rd then downshifting into 2nd, controlling revs, as well as braking all while trying to look out for the guy who is crossing the double yellow.
 
__________________
https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/signaturepics/sigpic151635_2.gif
MINI Specialists * Parts * Performance * Service
Phone:586-792-6464
Info@DetroitTuned.com
Nick@DetroitTuned.com
Reply
Old Mar 16, 2015 | 09:10 AM
  #5  
apardan's Avatar
apardan
Thread Starter
|
1st Gear
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by nkfry
Slightly oversized as in, raised compression?

Are you tuned? If not that is where I would start, as well as running the injectors to compensate for such mods.

There are multiple supporting mods required to run raised compression,especially in a boosted engine, and if you don't have them in place you will cause severe damage.



These cars make power higher up in the rev range, high RPM is where SC cars shine. Especially on the Dragon where you need the extra few hundred RPM you get from tuning the car. Being able to rev high and engine brake into the corner is much easier than shifting into 3rd then downshifting into 2nd, controlling revs, as well as braking all while trying to look out for the guy who is crossing the double yellow.

Yes , ive got slightly raised compression. Since the pistons are the next larger size than the stock ones. Can you give me examples if the supporting mods required? Yes the car is tuned.
Thanks a lot for the quick replies.
 
Reply
Old Mar 16, 2015 | 09:13 AM
  #6  
Saltysalt's Avatar
Saltysalt
6th Gear
10 Year Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,257
Likes: 15
From: Dover, NH
any modifications to the head? it is very strange to see a blip like that, usually it just tapers off since your leaking somewhere... but to come back....


as for boost, you should have all of it around 3.3k RPM and hold it to redline. and most of it before that point
 
Reply
Old Mar 16, 2015 | 09:18 AM
  #7  
apardan's Avatar
apardan
Thread Starter
|
1st Gear
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by Saltysalt
any modifications to the head? it is very strange to see a blip like that, usually it just tapers off since your leaking somewhere... but to come back....


as for boost, you should have all of it around 3.3k RPM and hold it to redline. and most of it before that point
Stock rebuilt head. Im trying to find possible solutions to the problem. Might be the belt slipping, boost leak, compressor close to end of his life? But the weird part is that low point in boost and how it just increases after
 
Reply
Old Mar 16, 2015 | 10:02 AM
  #8  
TheBigChill's Avatar
TheBigChill
5th Gear
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 774
Likes: 51
From: NY
Originally Posted by nkfry

These cars make power higher up in the rev range, high RPM is where SC cars shine. Especially on the Dragon where you need the extra few hundred RPM you get from tuning the car. Being able to rev high and engine brake into the corner is much easier than shifting into 3rd then downshifting into 2nd, controlling revs, as well as braking all while trying to look out for the guy who is crossing the double yellow.

You don't need to live at 7000+RPM in order to engine brake into a turn and still have power coming out. Using the The Dragon as an example is a bit inappropriate, anyhow.

Back to the supercharger, specifically a very small, Eaton roots style: These things are sooo far out of their efficiency range at both engine and blower RPMs that high, it's not even funny. 17psi and a 14,000rpm blower speed puts this thing in outer space on it's factory efficiency island map.

Anyways, the boost increase after 6500rpm pretty much eliminates most of those causes in my mind, with only the belt slipping seen as a possible contributor. Not sure why it would slip then grab though, when you're steadily increasing load.
 
Reply
Old Mar 16, 2015 | 10:35 AM
  #9  
apardan's Avatar
apardan
Thread Starter
|
1st Gear
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by TheBigChill
You don't need to live at 7000+RPM in order to engine brake into a turn and still have power coming out. Using the The Dragon as an example is a bit inappropriate, anyhow.

Back to the supercharger, specifically a very small, Eaton roots style: These things are sooo far out of their efficiency range at both engine and blower RPMs that high, it's not even funny. 17psi and a 14,000rpm blower speed puts this thing in outer space on it's factory efficiency island map.

Anyways, the boost increase after 6500rpm pretty much eliminates most of those causes in my mind, with only the belt slipping seen as a possible contributor. Not sure why it would slip then grab though, when you're steadily increasing load.
http://imgur.com/d1YSkXP

The grey line is the boost and the rpm the purple one
 

Last edited by apardan; Mar 16, 2015 at 11:38 AM.
Reply
Old Mar 16, 2015 | 10:37 AM
  #10  
Helix13mini's Avatar
Helix13mini
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,159
Likes: 17
From: Under your car
Check your belt and tensioner.
 
Reply
Old Mar 16, 2015 | 10:39 AM
  #11  
apardan's Avatar
apardan
Thread Starter
|
1st Gear
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by Helix13mini
Check your belt and tensioner.
You have come to that conclusion after seeing the graph?
 
Reply
Old Mar 16, 2015 | 10:55 AM
  #12  
Helix13mini's Avatar
Helix13mini
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,159
Likes: 17
From: Under your car
My Chrome isn't opening the graph, so no: it looks like your link is broken. Based upon your reaction, you disagree. When you are having loss of boost at high rpm in a supercharged car, start simple and check your belt and tensioner, and go from there.
 
Reply
Old Mar 16, 2015 | 11:11 AM
  #13  
apardan's Avatar
apardan
Thread Starter
|
1st Gear
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by Helix13mini
My Chrome isn't opening the graph, so no: it looks like your link is broken. Based upon your reaction, you disagree. When you are having loss of boost at high rpm in a supercharged car, start simple and check your belt and tensioner, and go from there.
I dont disagree, on the contrary. The belt seems the most logical explanation. The weird thing is that i have loss of boost at 6000rpm and then near the redline i regain the normal boost. Thanks a lot for your time and effort explaining
 
Reply
Old Mar 16, 2015 | 11:18 AM
  #14  
Saltysalt's Avatar
Saltysalt
6th Gear
10 Year Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,257
Likes: 15
From: Dover, NH
maybe after the slipping it heat up just a touch, then can grip again. I cannot see the graph either
 
Reply
Old Mar 16, 2015 | 11:36 AM
  #15  
apardan's Avatar
apardan
Thread Starter
|
1st Gear
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
http://imgur.com/d1YSkXP
Can you see the graph now?

The grey line is the boost and the purple one the rpm
 
Reply
Old Mar 18, 2015 | 08:17 AM
  #16  
soccerbummer1104's Avatar
soccerbummer1104
5th Gear
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,100
Likes: 13
From: Inman, SC
most likely a belt slip. Tensioner and belt.

And did you get higher CR pistons when you overbored and put in the oversize ones?

Oversized pistons does not mean higher compression by default. you would have to order them in a higher compression ratio.

Oversized just means they are ... let's say .040 over bore. Which means they are .040 larger in diameter than stock and the cylinders are re-bored to .040 to match.

This helps to make sure the pistons fit the bore with the correct clearances as from the factory they err on the side of caution to make sure all the motors fit and compensate for tool wear etc. Also done to re-round the bore should you over heat the block and the factory combustion chamber goes slightly out of round (less than .040 so that the .040 overbore makes it round again)
 
Reply
Old Mar 18, 2015 | 08:25 AM
  #17  
soccerbummer1104's Avatar
soccerbummer1104
5th Gear
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,100
Likes: 13
From: Inman, SC
it could also be your cam profile.

What cam do you have in the car?

It is not an abrupt change so it could be indicitive of your car breathing better up top around 6500 RPM. (lower boost isnt a bad thing. It could mean you have more flow going through the head -> less backpressure due to intake runner length being tuned for that RPM + cam selection + head work + exhaust back pressure (effects scavenging) and as you go past that optimal band you are getting out of the design range for that cam (the less technical term would be when a car "falls on its face after X RPM" ) and intake and exhaust setup, so you get more back pressure, which results in a higher "boost" pressure as you are actually flowing less air to the cylinders / intake event. ( less air mass)


In short.
Due to your current setup of intake, cam, exhaust and head work your best volumetric efficiency could be around 6500 RPM and your engine at higher levels may be less effecient at taking in fresh air and filling the cylinder resulting in "more boost" before and after when in fact 6500 is still flowing more air / intake event than anywhere else.

After all boost pressure is just a measure of the resistance to the air going into the cylinder.

(it is common to see lower peak boost values with a top end cam and high-flowing head setup)
 
Reply
Old Mar 18, 2015 | 11:43 AM
  #18  
TheBigChill's Avatar
TheBigChill
5th Gear
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 774
Likes: 51
From: NY
It sounds like he has a stock head, though rebuilt. No aftermarket cam.
 
Reply
Old Mar 19, 2015 | 06:03 AM
  #19  
soccerbummer1104's Avatar
soccerbummer1104
5th Gear
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,100
Likes: 13
From: Inman, SC
well that makes sense then as the stock cam "does not make power" after ~66-6800 RPM

-> as in it doesnt breath as well at 6700 rpm as it does at 6200 rpm.

Since the supercharger is still linked to the crank, it is pushing a larger volume of air / turn, but the engine is taking in less volume of air / turn causing a larger back pressure and higher boost readings

Could also be belt slip as while what I am saying works in theory, I am not sure as to the scale of it as I have never bothered with data-logging it (and I have not had a stock cam in quite some time )
 
Reply
Old Mar 19, 2015 | 06:58 AM
  #20  
TheBigChill's Avatar
TheBigChill
5th Gear
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 774
Likes: 51
From: NY
Since the supercharger is still linked to the crank, it is pushing a larger volume of air / turn, but the engine is taking in less volume of air / turn causing a larger back pressure and higher boost readings
That's a perfectly valid point, but the dip still doesn't quite make sense. I personally wouldn't worry about it, because as I said up top, there's little value in revving this motor with a stock head that high; it's just not productive.
 
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Steffen.Johnson
R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006)
42
Jan 25, 2023 02:47 PM
ECSTuning
Vendor Announcements
0
Oct 1, 2015 12:13 PM
patsum
MINI Parts for Sale
0
Sep 30, 2015 02:10 PM
Levers_and_Gears
JCW Garage
0
Sep 28, 2015 04:42 PM
EVMini
R56 :: Hatch Talk (2007+)
4
Sep 28, 2015 10:20 AM




All times are GMT -7. The time now is 01:07 PM.