This one has me stumped . I have a 2007 Cooper S and back in June, the stock turbo failed at 80k. I found a 20k mile take-off turbo here on NAM, a JCW downpipe, and a Detroit Tuned Oil line. I finally got around to the job over labor day weekend and all went well. Until...I started driving the car.

The turbo was spooling up more quickly than the one that failed, bouncing off the boost cut (around 20+ psi), then backing down. I uninstalled the Accesport software which was working fine on the original turbo, and it worked fine. No issues bouncing off the boost cut. I can get up to around 14 psi with no issues. I reloaded the software thinking it might have been corrupted since I also had a battery issue from the car sitting so long.

Today, I backed off on the wastegate adjustment, thinking that it might slow the turbo speed down a little so it doesn't overboost. No luck on that either. I've been driving it daily like this, with no warning lights or codes. I have a feeling that the original turbo had a good bit of friction holding it back, and kept it from spooling up as quickly as this one.

Anybody have any suggestions?

 

Oh yes...I'm running the Stage I FMIC 92 Octane Map.

 

Mine does the same thing with the access port maps but not quite as bad as you are describing. I'd think that if you had the accessport maps for a JCW engine it would run better. I'm not sure if you can get them or if I would be able to send you mine for you to upload into your access port. The problem is, the access port tries to read your VIN/PCM and determine what engine you have and you have an S VIN but JCW parts equivalents. So it may be extremely hard to get a handheld tune to operate correctly. You may wind up needing a custom tune for the custom engine you just put together.

 

I think you are right, I can't download a JCW map because of the VIN.

I guess I may be selling the Accessport and going for a custom tune. Maybe I'll try a few of the maps available for the car first to see what happens. If I start with the mellowest upgrade first, that might work. The car feels soooo slow now.

 

Hey did you ever figure this out? I have the same thing going on, shop replaced my turbo with what was supposed to be oem and now its bouncing off the boost ceiling like no ones business.

 

Do you have an Accessport? If so uninstall it.

Check the vacuum source to the wastegate actuator, is it connected and is the hose intact with no tears? Did they mess with the wastegate adjustment? Do you have some sort of aftermarket blow off valve installed?

 

Ive uninstalled the AP, It comes back but not as quickly.

No aftermarket blowoff and stock dv valve, I have a gfb diverter but it didnt get swapped over when they did the turbo.

Wastegate was not adjusted on the new turbo and i have since installed a MBC for keep the boost under 22psi but im still getting p2885 if i run the stage 3 tune.

I also swapped the boost sensor and it felt like it picked up some power on the stage 1 but when i went back to stage 3 im getting 2885 again.

 

I have a 2007 MCS with a JCW turbo. I run a Riss racing down pipe and a typhoon intake. I'm running the stage 1 AP tune for 91 octane. I'm top gear under higher speed roll ins the overboost cut out kicks in . Shifting into 5th gear and all is right with the world. I read a while back that Alta designed these tunes as to prevent engine damage at upper end of boost. I wonder if this had anything to do with this.

 

Nope they just didn't write any ots maps to account for a more efficient turbo, kinda sucks considering most people will end up with a more efficient Borg Warner when they need a replacement as its half the price as the actual turbo.

 

You could always run a closed loop boost valve,. Popular among audis, your boost controller can't keep up with the new turbo. I had similar issues with my stock turbo bouncing off boost cut at 22 psi. I bought a boost valve and plumbed it in, dialed it in to 20 psi and haven't had an issue since. www.boostvalve.com

 

That's a great idea.

I have a JCW size turbo on AP map and it's not working well.

I also have the Alta 42/56 turbo and corresponding Stage 4 map but am concerned with clutch slip where torque/boost is highest.

How do you actually adjust it though?

 

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The boost valve has a **** on top you just turn it to your desired boost level there's no markings so I would plumb it up with it twisted all the way out and move in small increments until you're at desired boost pressure

 

I was told not to mess with the boost aka manual boost controller and yes I had one on my Audi TT...I have an issue with the boost power whatever at 4000 rpms..it coughs and kicks back and regains..but when I step on it I can't cause of this...
I have the Alta recirc valve/bov and the alta boost tap...FMIC no cats no res cai
Accessport/Cobb..I tried 3rd stage no go same thing stage 2 little better but I can't get on it...maybe going limp then regains? maybe wastegate tweak needed? maybe go back to the electric bov...09' MCS Turbo N14 R56..New plugs on today NGK 1422
then maybe go back to stock DV? Anyone? Codes were for the thermo no biggy I'm thinking...Little Help..I know old tune etc, etc,. I like the power given If I can figure this out...4000rpms goughs and kicks back..WTF

 

It's not a regular manual boost controller,. It is only for turning boost down it's a closed loop system so it's ok for the mini just allows you to control when the watsegate opens.

 

Just ordered it.

I switched to the Alta 56 Billet turbo and their Stage 4 map. Hitting 22.4 PSI and boost cut a mid RPM.

 

well I changed the plugs out went to a colder one and gapped at .28
Changed oil was due and changed coolant was due...
Took the Alta Recirc valve off and boost tap off. I went back to stock electric diverter..I will let run for a few days and see..
For some reason I get the spike at 4000 rpms still mostly with the sport button on..
Sport button off not as much but still can't step on it hard...no launch..
I'm thinking maybe the ignition coils that is my next change out..

 

I installed it and took it back off. I connected it via the wastegate actuator tube then connected it to wastegate.

I did not follow their instructions as I don't have a boost tap or a noise maker delete. Would have been nice if they specified that in the ad.

But I took the most logical route and all it does is severely limit boost to 7PSI at max open. Took it back off and still hitting boost cut at 22.4PSI.

I wonder if a regular manual boost controller would work...

 

I have a boost tap I could sale you Dr. Spade. And I don't think the noise maker would have made it not work. You need the boost to make it work correctly. I just purchased this boostvalve today to keep my boost levels down.

 

opps wrong thread! keep up the good work guys

 

Let me know how it works.

I don't like the fact that the original wastegate line is just going to float around.

I think my main issue is the wastegate not being adjusted right. I'm regularly hitting 18.1-18.9PSI on stock tune. It's fun but AFRs look too lean; 14.6 at WOT in between 3-4K then richens a little.

Anyone need tunes? I have the Stage 4 tunes for Accessport

 

Dr Spade I sent you a PM for tunes...Accessport

 

I found this picture on how it's connected.

 

Yikes. A lambda of 1.0 is fine for the very short window at initial tip in to reduce spool up but after that it should drop to ~.84 and continue to drop as timing and RPM increases.

 

Right but where does the original hose to wastegate go? It didn't come with some sort of T hose as pictured.

Yea until I adjust the wastegate I'll just take it easy on stock tune.

 

Your just Teeing into the the hose from the wastegate to the (pressure switch) boost solenoid under the intake manifold. That line is controlled by vacuum unlike most other turbo setups. And to adjust the wastegate I found this. That's just under 6 inches