Drivetrain Factory engine went. Time to build new one
Factory engine went. Time to build new one
So my 2004 mini ate it at 130k.
So time to buy a new crate and get what I want
So a question.
240-250 at the wheels.
What to I do? Engine and supporting mods.
I'm starting this week so thanks for the input.
So time to buy a new crate and get what I want
So a question.
240-250 at the wheels.
What to I do? Engine and supporting mods.
I'm starting this week so thanks for the input.
You'll definitely need a BVH, cam, s/c pulley, injectors, a tune and exhaust. I know that some people on here had good results with just a head and tune. A good flowing head is a must if 250 is your goal.
I started with a crate Works engine, but that got to about 210 after a good tune.
Adding better heads and a racing header might get you close.
Do you require this engine to pass state inspection?
Do you do your own work? This project could easily be north of $10k.
Cheers,
Charlie
Adding better heads and a racing header might get you close.
Do you require this engine to pass state inspection?
Do you do your own work? This project could easily be north of $10k.
Cheers,
Charlie
Yup...price it out...easily $10,000+....
Mini reman/crate motors are $$$$.....$5000ish off the top of my head...
Then add a BVH head, cam, header, etc...then good tune....all voids the warrenty on that factory motor....
210 to the wheels is common and safe...a used motor in good shape will do that....with a few mods...
250 is less common...but has been done by a few folks...
If you are ready to plunk down $15,000 (gotta do the install, shipping, and "while you are at it" stuff like race CV axels)...call a couple vendors....waymotorworks is one option, as is RMW.
Mini reman/crate motors are $$$$.....$5000ish off the top of my head...
Then add a BVH head, cam, header, etc...then good tune....all voids the warrenty on that factory motor....
210 to the wheels is common and safe...a used motor in good shape will do that....with a few mods...
250 is less common...but has been done by a few folks...
If you are ready to plunk down $15,000 (gotta do the install, shipping, and "while you are at it" stuff like race CV axels)...call a couple vendors....waymotorworks is one option, as is RMW.
I started with a crate Works engine, but that got to about 210 after a good tune.
Adding better heads and a racing header might get you close.
Do you require this engine to pass state inspection?
Do you do your own work? This project could easily be north of $10k.
Cheers,
Charlie
Adding better heads and a racing header might get you close.
Do you require this engine to pass state inspection?
Do you do your own work? This project could easily be north of $10k.
Cheers,
Charlie
What was your build?
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The front main crank seal gave on the highway.
I limped it 3/4 mile home and right when I parked the red lamp came on.
It made a misfire (harley) sound and a tick in the engine. And a nice oil pool all out of the front by the crank pulley.
So if I can keep my block I will. And just reseal and add parts. And recondition it.
I have the budget for a new engine and love the car. So I might just toss a new motor in it and enjoy it for another 100k.
I want to stay away from sprintex. And keep the eaton.
It already had a pulley intercooler dampener ignition intake and cat-less header and exhaust. I was 2 months from pulling and building so now it just earlier.
I limped it 3/4 mile home and right when I parked the red lamp came on.
It made a misfire (harley) sound and a tick in the engine. And a nice oil pool all out of the front by the crank pulley.
So if I can keep my block I will. And just reseal and add parts. And recondition it.
I have the budget for a new engine and love the car. So I might just toss a new motor in it and enjoy it for another 100k.
I want to stay away from sprintex. And keep the eaton.
It already had a pulley intercooler dampener ignition intake and cat-less header and exhaust. I was 2 months from pulling and building so now it just earlier.
Gents the answers to both questions regarding the original Gollum (R53 Works) are in the threads I linked. In a nutshell the "build" was a Works crate motor, tuned by Bren Tuning of Ayer MA. The build was compliant with SCCA STX rules at the time. With regard to why I put the motor in it, please refer to the first few posts in the thread. The motor which was replaced was not noticeably defective in any way, but I wanted a "re-do" primarily to have a run at the STX class Nationally (which was aspirational, to put it mildly).
But to the point, a dead-nuts reliable 210 with the torque numbers evident in that dyno plot is one hell of a kick in the *ss I assure you. That was a genuinely quick car, although still quite drivable (if you like a stiff ride).
250 is pretty near the edge I reckon, and the number of folks that can make it and keep it reliable is modest I bet.
But hey, what the heck do I know? I haven't done it!
Cheers,
Charlie
But to the point, a dead-nuts reliable 210 with the torque numbers evident in that dyno plot is one hell of a kick in the *ss I assure you. That was a genuinely quick car, although still quite drivable (if you like a stiff ride).
250 is pretty near the edge I reckon, and the number of folks that can make it and keep it reliable is modest I bet.
But hey, what the heck do I know? I haven't done it!
Cheers,
Charlie
Is it worth it you ask...hmmmm???
One suggestion for you...before you dump all that money into your 2004 MINI, have you shopped around for a newer MINI?
It sounds like you've got the mechanical aptitude to fix most problems as well as some cash in your pocket. Maybe you could find a newer one from a private party -- not a dealer. I mean something with 50,000 to 80,000 miles that needs some work at a good price.
One suggestion for you...before you dump all that money into your 2004 MINI, have you shopped around for a newer MINI?
It sounds like you've got the mechanical aptitude to fix most problems as well as some cash in your pocket. Maybe you could find a newer one from a private party -- not a dealer. I mean something with 50,000 to 80,000 miles that needs some work at a good price.
I have an 05 MCSa that I blow up at 20k. I rebuilt it with all the items you have listed and my dyno sheet says 220 HP & 194 TQ at 6200 rpms. It cost me around 11k. The block was ok but I blow a hole through BVH and that was the end of that.
The 04 is a great car. 210whp is no problem. 250whp is achievable if you plan it right and it will also be reliable daily driver. The guys at RMW really know what they are doing and can back it up with results.
If I was to do it over again, I'd buy a blown 05/06 and put one of their complete packages in. It would be beast.
If I was to do it over again, I'd buy a blown 05/06 and put one of their complete packages in. It would be beast.
For the price you're considering spending on this car to get to 250hp, you could buy an entirely different car, already equipped with 250hp.
Being unique is cool, but this is so not cost-effective....
Being unique is cool, but this is so not cost-effective....
Honestly, you can part your car out for 3-5k easily. You can easily shop around for an already built car. I know of a built on being sold right now. If I were you, I'd go that route because it would save you 10k or more in the end.
Seriously call Jan. Tell him your goal and he can tell you what you need and how much it will cost. Plus if you get a built motor from him it will take all the power you want to make.
I think I spent about $6k installed, I make 227wheel. I don't have a bvh or header....yet.
I think I spent about $6k installed, I make 227wheel. I don't have a bvh or header....yet.
^^Jan had a motor already to go on Facebook.
From their Facebook Page:
Brand new RMW 1.62L Mini engine ready to ship!
RMW Big Valve head with inconel exhaust valves
RMW camshaft
RMW Custom 8.5:1 pistons
RMW Forged connecting rods with 3/8" APR 2000 rod bolts
RMW oil sump baffle
Mahle race rod bearings
Factory main bearings
New oil pump
All new gaskets and seals
the mainstay motor of many track records!
$6800
From their Facebook Page:
Brand new RMW 1.62L Mini engine ready to ship!
RMW Big Valve head with inconel exhaust valves
RMW camshaft
RMW Custom 8.5:1 pistons
RMW Forged connecting rods with 3/8" APR 2000 rod bolts
RMW oil sump baffle
Mahle race rod bearings
Factory main bearings
New oil pump
All new gaskets and seals
the mainstay motor of many track records!
$6800
Last edited by cerenkov; Aug 10, 2014 at 06:23 AM.
^^Jan had a motor already to go on Facebook.
From their Facebook Page:
Brand new RMW 1.62L Mini engine ready to ship!
RMW Big Valve head with inconel exhaust valves
RMW camshaft
RMW Custom 8.5:1 pistons
RMW Forged connecting rods with 3/8" APR 2000 rod bolts
RMW oil sump baffle
Mahle race rod bearings
Factory main bearings
New oil pump
All new gaskets and seals
the mainstay motor of many track records!
$6800
From their Facebook Page:
Brand new RMW 1.62L Mini engine ready to ship!
RMW Big Valve head with inconel exhaust valves
RMW camshaft
RMW Custom 8.5:1 pistons
RMW Forged connecting rods with 3/8" APR 2000 rod bolts
RMW oil sump baffle
Mahle race rod bearings
Factory main bearings
New oil pump
All new gaskets and seals
the mainstay motor of many track records!
$6800
Honestly, that's a steal. You can beat the ever living sh*t out of that engine and it will never break at 250whp. I know of a guy running 400whp out of it and only ever shifted it at 8 or higher on track events. It lasted 7000 miles of track day only abuse. Now that my friends, is quality...
My car is 255whp, 190 WT and has covered 34k miles reliably. I did not spend an arm and a leg on it and I should be able to get another 70k miles out of it.
I'm running a stock bottom end, stock m45 w/ 15% redux and just RMW parts where it counts. I like it because I'm only running 14psi of boost and it's easy to drive and gets 31 mpg hwy.
I've walked many cars that I shouldn't such as a ls2 GTO 6.0.
These cars can be extremely fun, quick, and reliable if built right.
I will upgrade to an RMW 1.6 or 1.8 when my stock bottom end isn't happy anymore or my compression is low.
If building a MINI go with a model that has the longer gear ratios if going north of 250whp... I run 15x10 fronts and 15x9 rears to raise the gear ratios. So second now goes to 72and third is 102 mph 4th is 142 and I've never wound out 5th.
As I've said in an above post, it would be much cheaper to part your car and buy a built car that Jan has already done all the magic too. I've seen clean examples for 13-16k running every mod you would pretty much ever want.
Heck, I'll sell you mine!
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