So at 126k miles, I have decided to see whether I can reset the odometer by rebuilding the car. Really reset it. I want the car to go to SCCA Solo II Nationals in 2010, and I want a few more years of the driving delight that I have had for the last five.

The budget for the project has a hard ceiling of 9k, which is probably not enough, so prioritizing the spend will be important.

The car is an '04 MCS Works, with a few modifications added on: The Works kit was installed at the dealer at 666 miles, and then a Quaife, new clutch (Turner Motorsports at 20k miles), H&R Coil Overs, Webb Camber plates, someone's rear lower control arms and sway bar.

At this time the car returns mileage in the 30+ range if driven sensibly, and has only two detectable faults (O2 sensor is tripping a CEL, and the Works stainless resonator has developed a bit of a buzz at 2600 rpms).

I'm trying to sort out what is unarguably necessary, and what should be done ONLY based on an inspection, and finally what level of inspection will be needed.

At present the following items are (I think) unarguably necessary:
1. supercharger
2. CV joints (front axles)
3. suspension bushings throughout

There are no failures yet in any of these components, but....

The following items might be needed, but then again perhaps not:
1. a short block (about 3.5k depending on who sells it)
2. head/valve/cam (the Works head is pretty nice and I'd keep it)

The following items I hope will go another 80k:
1. the gearbox and quaife (they've been babied)

The inspection methods that are possible vary according to how much work I'd be willing to do up front:
1. compression and leak down testing
2. oil pressure (add an external guage to measure it)
3. bottom end bearing wear (that's some work)
4. valve and seat condition (that's some work)

I've put the project out to bid with two extremely qualified local businesses, and will pick one in the next 30 days.

I'll keep y'all posted.

Cheers,

Charlie

 

This is the general BMW dealer do for inspections http://www.bimmerzone.com/inspection.htm

 

that is a thorough and helpful resource, thank you.

 

You're welcome

 

Why are you doing this? 126k miles isn't that much.

 

a good question, and one that will keep me from spending money unwisely

although I know of Minis that have gone much further, 126k miles isn't all that little either...

from what I have heard, read, and experienced, the supercharger warrants some attention. if I do not service it, and it fails, other components could suffer...

similarly, the CV joints should be near the end of their lives...

so where to draw the line? that is the question.

I could adopt the philosophy of "fix it when it breaks", but there are two worries with that approach:

1. what if it breaks on the way to Nationals? I really want to compete hard in 2010, and worrying about old and fragile components will not be a help to me in that setting

2. what if a breakage damages other components? This one applies mostly to stuff that is moving fast, like pistons, bearings, rings, valves, belts, connecting rods and such...

I could also go too far the other way, and fix stuff that does not require repair, and of course I'd prefer not to do that also...

At the moment I intend to have each of the two bidders on this project take the car for a day and perform as much inspection as they can without a tear down, and then listen carefully to the feedback that I get, and then think...

It's not an easy problem because of course so many components are inaccessible without committing to several days of shop work.

We shall see.

Cheers,

Charlie

 

While doing the supercharger, then a new waterpump, thermostat and hoses are doable at almost no additional labor.

 

Thanks TrackRat - a good point and one I will take seriously.

This project continues, as Mini of Peabody has the car for this week to allow their team to inspect thoroughly and create a proposal based on their findings.

Next week the car will be left with Turner Motorsport, who will do essentially the same type of task.

I shall then have both shop's observations to consider, as well as the business terms they wish to propose for this effort.

I could send all the work one way or the other, or I could split it -- taking some of the pure OEM fixes to the dealer and if the budget permits reserving the non-standard competition work for Turners.

I am blessed to have two business that are in my view extremely well qualified to tackle this. I have been very pleased with all the MoP work done over the years, and of course Turner Motorsport's reputation speaks for itself.

I'm hoping that both teams may agree that no short block is indicated. If so then the budget will probably permit some performance increases within the STX rules.

Fingers crossed...

Cheers,

Charlie

 

Charlie, another place you could consider for an estimate is this guy:http://www.greasysgarage.com/main/. He's in Worcester and works on allot of the local guys MINIs. He has a pretty thorough knowledge of the MINI and has reasonable rates.

 

well I'll be darned -- thanks for the tip.

Apparently a jewel of a shop.

 

well both juries have come back, and now the tough decisions begin

my dear dealer, after taking great care, doing a lot of research (particularly parts) and having a week to inspect

block is questionable, might need short block but hope not. over 30% leakdown in 2 and 3, and the wet leakdown does not change much. possible head work. replace supercharger, and go through all weak spots including belts, pullies, pumps etc.

the renowned tuner, after taking great care in their own way and also having a week to inspect

block needs replacement. 50% leakdown in 2 and 3 and the wet test cut that by quite a lot. they described to me that they spent over four hours doing compression and leakdown testing to get a thorough and accurate measurement. possible head work. replace supercharger, and go through all the weak spots with a similar but not identical list to my dear dealer.

The bids are quite close - probably because I proposed a ceiling in my original request. I have great respect and confidence in both shops, as I said earlier.

So Question (1) - replace the short block - yes/no [part is ~3,400$, 30% of budget]

And Question (2) - who does it?

At present, I think I know my answers - but these are decisions worth sleeping on -- perhaps more than once.

Charlie

 

Turner's gets the work.

Mini Of Peabody is the best dealer I have ever worked with, and I look forward to continuing our relationship for years to come.

But 2010 is about racing, and that is Turner's business.

The car goes in around 22 February, for a new heart and lungs.

Should be a very fun year in the Autocross business.

More to come...

Charlie

 

Jeez, I'd be horrified if my Mini needed a rebuild at 126k.

 

lol -- i need one too, at 55 years...

the mini is cheaper...

get a baseline measurement for compression wet/dry, a baseline dyno if you can, and watch the mileage... everyone's time must come eventually

i'd have bet a nickel the car would pass the leakdown tests, 'cause the butt dyno said so, and so did the mileage

nope.

slow changes over time can be hard to detect, and hard data is difficult to ignore

but what is a reasonable amortization period for a modern car?

i cannot kick with 130k of top notch service...

if i bought another -- $350/mo finance -- $4,300/year -- $12,600 for three years

@ 22k miles/year that amounts to 66k miles, or 20 cents/mile

the rebuild (2 years guarantee) @ 10k is actually less than I'd spend for a new one. less finance, less insurance, less depreciation.

and since I wear the car like a pair of broken in jeans, it makes sense to me

of course, i could be a raving nut case...

cheers,

charlie

ps: if my wife says I'm in a rut, I just remind her that the other word for that is "faithful"

 

so it turns out that the short block has no pistons or rings or connecting rods...

oops. a bit of a budget buster perhaps?

but wait, Turners then sources the only complete turn-key Cooper S Works engine in the country - complete with blower, pan, covers, coils, the works...

and the difference amounts to the projected cost of the head work, the labor, and various other sundries. it's a wash when all is considered.

so Gollum will come out of this with a 0 miles Works motor, a complete resurrection.

I cannot wait, and of course we'll dyno it to see what it can pull.

The original Works motor pulled 167 wheel HP on the Turners Dynojet back in '06 as I recall.

All should be revealed in a few weeks.

I feel like a kid waiting for Christmas.

 

While you are at it, have Turner replace your control arm bushings if you haven't done that recently: it will bring back the handling that you had when the car was new.

 

Thanks Helix, they've been done once already but might warrant doing again.

That's the easy stuff, and I will not neglect it.

T'would be a pity to wind up with a fast but sloppy car.

Cheers,

Charlie

 

... and we now add in both front axles ...

no surprise there...

 

... well all is completed except for the supercharger, which had to come from Germany. Apparently there were two in the US, but the food chain for such items is long and pecking order might be a factor depending on who needs one and their volume. Reputedly a very large East Coast dealer plays a prominant role in the that process.

No matter, and no hurry.

Should be done next week, and then I have to put 1k on the drive train before it should go on the dyno.

Old skin, new heart and lungs. The worn spot in the floor mat just beneath the clutch will still be there, and so will be the walnut shift **** that I foolishly bought a few years ago - but under the hood?

All new, from the motor through the axles, to the bearings, and all the way out to last year's set of R1Rs.

Oh my I can hardly wait!

Cheers,

Charlie

 

And what class are you planning to run?

 

I run STX sir.

Cheers,

Charlie

 

I'm picking up Gollum v2 tomorrow morning.

At the last moment, and apparently healthy water pump revealed that it was in fact leaking and not suitable for reinstallation, so that was the last surprise.

On time, and within budget. A credit to Turner Motorsport.

 

Well it hums at idle, and has that edgy little whine that I originally loved about the car. The clutch is a touch lighter, but the engagement point has not changed. Overall it just feels like the same car, but new.

Now to be very polite with it for the next 500 miles, and semi-polite for the 500 after that.

Then an oil change, inspection, and the dyno.

Very polite: light throttle, max 3k revs
Semi-polite: medium throttle, max 4k revs

That'll take a few weeks, but I need it all broken in and good to go within six weeks in order to start the season.

 

thankfully, on advice from Marco at Turners the break-in period will be shorter than that.

instead of 500 at polite I'll do only 250 miles
and then at semi-polite, another 250.

There are two schools of thought regarding the break-in approach to a forced induction engine. Marco is of the opinion that a more rapid progression toward normal use (albeit not in the first hundred or so) will result in a tighter and stronger engine.

Didn't have any argument from me -- feather footing this car requires almost more discipline that I have!

 

.mmmmm

5k and short burst of full throttle now

getting better...

still not hammering it though -- that'll come in due time