Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain How long until the ecu adapts?

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Old Jun 15, 2014 | 03:51 PM
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bavmotors's Avatar
bavmotors
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How long until the ecu adapts?

This weekend I replaced a few parts on my '05 MCS
-thermostat housing gasket
-Ireland engineering crank pulley
-wmw 15% charger pulley with belt and colder NGKs
-gates belt tensioner
-alta tensioner stop
-camshaft sensor
I reset my ecu after and my car is running great except its hesitating a bit. Basically only does it when I'm in a high gear and try to accelerate when I'm at a low speed for gear. So like 45 in 6th and I put my foot down to pick up speed I get a slight hesitation. So my question is, is the car still adjusting fuel trims? Still working out the mods to the ecu? Maybe the lighter crank pulley and extra boost is a lot for the ecu to adjust to? Seems like it's getting better and I continue to drive it more.
What do you guys think?
 
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 02:39 AM
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Anybody?
 
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 02:57 AM
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-=gRaY rAvEn=-'s Avatar
-=gRaY rAvEn=-
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45 in 6th? In the early MINI, 02-04 I wouldn't be in 6th gear unless over 60mph normally due to higher gearing but more "doable" with a 17% SCP instead of 15.

Did you replace the belt, if so what size?
 
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 07:12 AM
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Belt was replaced, used the supplied belt with my wmw pulley package.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 07:28 AM
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45 for 6th is kinda pushing it....hyper mileing..lol.hope you don't blow a head gasket..... Remember, below about 2500 or so (or so)rpm the bypass valve is open...and the s has low compression...so not much get up and go...
I'd give it a couple tanks of gas...give it time to adjust...but try not using 6th till 50+..heck...if I'm doing 55 steady I still get better mpg in 5th.....
 
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 09:19 AM
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It seems to be getting better the more I drive it, probably should get a uni chip down the road.
Thanks for input guys, I typically don't drive 45mph in 6th but that's the only way I could recreate the "hesitation."
 
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 10:42 AM
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negatory on the unichip. ( i mean do what you wish, but your ECU will learn over it)
 
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by soccerbummer1104
negatory on the unichip. ( i mean do what you wish, but your ECU will learn over it)
Yeah...poor choice...slightly better than the shark....but too many issues...all were used caused they were the ONLY options before tuning became an option...
No changes needed with a 15%.
The hesitation you felt might have been the antiknock sensor pulling timing.....heavy load...low rpms...give it time...the fuel trims are adapting...
 
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 11:46 AM
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Well I'm glad I said something I thought the uni chip was supposed to be a lot better than the shark.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 11:51 AM
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It takes 100km after the adaptations are deleted.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 06:00 PM
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Depending on your driving conditions you may want to forgot a light non-dampened crank pulley. Had one on just so I could experience it for a few months. While great on a short track when primarily using 2nd and 3rd gears, I found the reduced rotational mass to be a disadvantage when getting back on the throttle during highway speeds taking longer to build up speed due to lack of inertia at the end of the crank. 90% of my driving was highway so I didn't keep it.


Maybe add some JCW 380's or similar and get a proper tune...2nd what has been said about the Unichip and Shark.....
 
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by -=gRay rAvEn=-
Depending on your driving conditions you may want to forgot a light non-dampened crank pulley. Had one on just so I could experience it for a few months. While great on a short track when primarily using 2nd and 3rd gears, I found the reduced rotational mass to be a disadvantage when getting back on the throttle during highway speeds taking longer to build up speed due to lack of inertia at the end of the crank. 90% of my driving was highway so I didn't keep it. Maybe add some JCW 380's or similar and get a proper tune...2nd what has been said about the Unichip and Shark.....
Hmm that could be the issue, I only bought the lightened because I didn't have the cash for the dampened. Maybe I'll save up and change it out.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2014 | 07:27 AM
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One thing I have learned with the mini over the years is that the super cheap way is usually the most expensive rout.

Not only did you pay for the cheap part, but then you pay for the repairs from using it, or it just doesnt work well, and you end up buying the better, more expensive, better designed part eventually.

Why pay for the labor twice and if you think about it, you essentially just throw away the money you spent on the cheaper piece.



Ii understand as I was there at one point,
but believe me, I did an OBX header and while driving it to an exhaust shop to weld a cat to it and connect it to the main exhaust (open header) a backfire triggered the airbag sensor and blew the seatbelts down and cut the main battery cable.

a "cheap" $400 header ended up costing me over $1000. Could have had a much nicer header for that money.

Random extreem case I know, but it happens. And has happened a few times over the course of me owning one of these things

of course now I just make everything myself.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2014 | 05:15 PM
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Well the labor was free because I did it. I couldn't wait until I had the money for the dampened pulley because my car was un drivable.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 10:20 AM
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Do not drive a car like that. You need the mechanical advantage that a properly selected gear offers. You're lugging the engine- in other words, exceeding the ability of the motor to accelerate in a gear that is too high for the present rpm. A common byproduct of this is detonation, pinging, or other various ignition / spark related issues until the proper RPM-to-Load balance is reached. That could come across as hesitation. This very might not be the problem at all, but it's still worth noting.
 
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