Okay... is installing a reduction pulley frowned upon a this many miles?

What issues will I run into? Believe I'm on the stock SC and Waterpump still.

Any recommendations? Is it guaranteed that my pulley will be seized and will have to be cut? or can I pop off the stock pulley with some handtools and the craven puller? feedback please!

Also... i have this vid of my engine noise... seems normal to me but maybe someone will notice a sounds...

 

Wasn't able to watch the vid. but the mileage isn't an issue, shouldn't shorten the lifespan of anything, if the S/C or W/P goes soon, it was going to anyway.

As far as removal, no guarantees, but standard pulleys (non JCW) are typically not a "cut off" item, just make sure you have the "right" puller, with a genetic puller odds are most likely it will NOT work and create a cut-off situation.

 

Yeah not sure what is happening with the vid. Works in my computer but not others. I have the belt tool and the cravenspeed pulley remover which everyone recommends... I just don't have a air gun like some people use. Just socket wrenches and hand wrenches.

 

I also have 100k on my R53 and installed a pulley a few months ago..

As for the video, i'm not sure but it sounds like there's some type of bearing noise?
I think my car sounds very similar, i would get a stethoscope and listen to the supercharger before installing the pulley.

I also have the rattle noise noise that's very faint in the background, maybe SC failing?

 

At your mileage I'd make sure the engine is in good nick before installing the pulley. Do a compression & leak down test, that will tell you.

With that mileage I would also change the belt tentioner, the idler & crankshaft damper.

 

Just make sure your car is running good....
No pings, mifires or codes before you mod it...100,000 miles is pretty young in the life of a modern car.....heck there are plenty of 200,000 mile pulley installs....
Key is...if the seals on the sc are bad...it will go..pulley or no pulley...
Not sure on the sound (mics on camera are terrible, so vids are pretty useless)....

 

P.S.
Before you spend the time and $$, make sure (imo) that all scheduled MX is caught up....
Folks often "forget" things like coolant flushes.....and still have arguments over the "best oil" and is 3000, 5000, or 7500 mile oil changes better than the factory suggested 15,000....but ignore the factory 36-48 months from date of production flush ...

 

That 15k change is total BS. I've been doing between 3-5k just cause if age and miles. My tensioner is new. Haven't done a coolant flush but I'll be sure to do it within the week after doing my pulley. Just want it on for a meet at thunderhill and then I'll get everything done that I need done. I would assume a sc oil change is probably needed.

 

[QUOTE="ashchuckton;3880946"]At your mileage I'd make sure the engine is in good nick before installing the pulley. Do a compression & leak down test, that will tell you. With that mileage I would also change the belt tentioner, the idler & crankshaft damper.[/QUOTE
Did a dry compression test. 150,160,150, 160. It's not perfect but you don't need to freak out ignores your have 15-20 psi diff

 

it sounds normal to me, but i could be wrong. no need for air tools basic tools will do. put a bit of grease on the puller bolt and take your time with it and it should come out nice and smooth. When installing the belt have a friend pull on the tensioner tool so that you have no problem installing the smaller belt.
enjoy the extra bump

 

no worries about putting a pulley on at that mileage, as long as everything on the car has been well taken care of. The install is really easy too, just make sure you use the correct pulley tool, I did not have to cut off the pulley on mine, its just a really tight press fit but it will start to slide off with the correct tool, standard pulley tools will not cut it on this one.

 

There's nothing wrong with installing a pulley over 100k, we've done many as the cars are now getting older and onto 2nd and 3rd owners that want to mod them. If your engine is going to have problems it will have them with or without the pulley.
I would recommend doing the plug wires as we have seen many that had original wires that gave up after the pulley.

 

Sounds good. I have the craven tool and the tensioner tool.

 

So with your pulley I just need to push it as far as I can till it stops and then tighten down the Allen bolts? Or does
The pulley separate into two pieces?

Also, I bought your tensioner strut delrin bushings and the tensioner stop. Am I able to install both of those w/out removing the tensioner as long as I have that locking pin inserted?

 

Follow this instructions and give thanks to Pelican Parts :-)

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...ey_Install.htm

 

I went With Bill's web space and everything turned out fine. Although I find it much easier to just remove the tensioner and mounting bracket to get a clean working area not to mention the puller wasn't fitting without the tensioner out of the way

 

Great, Bill's web space is great too.