Drivetrain Manic Motorsport brings us N18 owners OBD II Tuning! Solution is finally here!
#2401
#2402
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
I wonder if this is an indirect result of the DTC maybe becoming confused if the front wheels are spinning???
I am assuming that you are pressing and holding the DTC button to turn all of the traction controls off. So, another thought. Have you tried just pressing the DTC button quickly and not holding it down? On my MINI the word “Traction” shows up in the Tach. I find that works well on the track as it cuts down the agressivness of the traction control. It may help with your issue.
#2403
The DTC doesn't cause the clutch to slip. It just doesn't prevent it from happening in the same manner that it prevents wheelspin. Sensors on each wheel compare the speed to the other wheels. It makes the necessary corrections when it determines that a wheel has lost traction. It's more difficult to get wheelspin in the higher gears because the gear ratio reduces the torque available at the wheels in favor of speed. I am not aware of sensors that make a similar comparison of RPM on either side of the clutch. When the engine is running strong and the clutch is marginal, that's when it can slip.
#2404
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
The DTC doesn't cause the clutch to slip. It just doesn't prevent it from happening in the same manner that it prevents wheelspin. Sensors on each wheel compare the speed to the other wheels. It makes the necessary corrections when it determines that a wheel has lost traction. It's more difficult to get wheelspin in the higher gears because the gear ratio reduces the torque available at the wheels in favor of speed. I am not aware of sensors that make a similar comparison of RPM on either side of the clutch. When the engine is running strong and the clutch is marginal, that's when it can slip.
#2405
I can't say that I feel anything out the normal, such as brakes being applied to front or back. Its just as soon as it starts making power the rpms fly up and that lovely smell of burning clutch come on fast.
Mine is an 07so
- to do a burn out I have to disconnect one of my wheel speed sensors otherwise the computer shuts the throttle, if I fail the system then I'm good to go. (found this out at the drag strip)
I was told that is an 07 only issue.
-I don't have any indication that says traction when I press my button, it just lights up the triangle on my tack. I have tried holding my button in for 5 seconds, just a quick push etc to try and get my burnout issue to work but never tried any of those "secret" button pushing to see if my clutch will not slip any different.
I'm not complaining, I just hit the button and go... Nice to have to much HP....lol
Mine is an 07so
- to do a burn out I have to disconnect one of my wheel speed sensors otherwise the computer shuts the throttle, if I fail the system then I'm good to go. (found this out at the drag strip)
I was told that is an 07 only issue.
-I don't have any indication that says traction when I press my button, it just lights up the triangle on my tack. I have tried holding my button in for 5 seconds, just a quick push etc to try and get my burnout issue to work but never tried any of those "secret" button pushing to see if my clutch will not slip any different.
I'm not complaining, I just hit the button and go... Nice to have to much HP....lol
#2406
#2407
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
I can't say that I feel anything out the normal, such as brakes being applied to front or back. Its just as soon as it starts making power the rpms fly up and that lovely smell of burning clutch come on fast.
Mine is an 07so
- to do a burn out I have to disconnect one of my wheel speed sensors otherwise the computer shuts the throttle, if I fail the system then I'm good to go. (found this out at the drag strip)
I was told that is an 07 only issue.
-I don't have any indication that says traction when I press my button, it just lights up the triangle on my tack. I have tried holding my button in for 5 seconds, just a quick push etc to try and get my burnout issue to work but never tried any of those "secret" button pushing to see if my clutch will not slip any different.
I'm not complaining, I just hit the button and go... Nice to have to much HP....lol
Mine is an 07so
- to do a burn out I have to disconnect one of my wheel speed sensors otherwise the computer shuts the throttle, if I fail the system then I'm good to go. (found this out at the drag strip)
I was told that is an 07 only issue.
-I don't have any indication that says traction when I press my button, it just lights up the triangle on my tack. I have tried holding my button in for 5 seconds, just a quick push etc to try and get my burnout issue to work but never tried any of those "secret" button pushing to see if my clutch will not slip any different.
I'm not complaining, I just hit the button and go... Nice to have to much HP....lol
Last edited by Eddie07S; 03-15-2019 at 07:00 PM.
#2408
I can't say that I feel anything out the normal, such as brakes being applied to front or back. Its just as soon as it starts making power the rpms fly up and that lovely smell of burning clutch come on fast.
Mine is an 07so
- to do a burn out I have to disconnect one of my wheel speed sensors otherwise the computer shuts the throttle, if I fail the system then I'm good to go. (found this out at the drag strip)
I was told that is an 07 only issue.
-I don't have any indication that says traction when I press my button, it just lights up the triangle on my tack. I have tried holding my button in for 5 seconds, just a quick push etc to try and get my burnout issue to work but never tried any of those "secret" button pushing to see if my clutch will not slip any different.
I'm not complaining, I just hit the button and go... Nice to have to much HP....lol
Mine is an 07so
- to do a burn out I have to disconnect one of my wheel speed sensors otherwise the computer shuts the throttle, if I fail the system then I'm good to go. (found this out at the drag strip)
I was told that is an 07 only issue.
-I don't have any indication that says traction when I press my button, it just lights up the triangle on my tack. I have tried holding my button in for 5 seconds, just a quick push etc to try and get my burnout issue to work but never tried any of those "secret" button pushing to see if my clutch will not slip any different.
I'm not complaining, I just hit the button and go... Nice to have to much HP....lol
#2409
oldbrokenwind, nice to hear from you again.... if you unplug one of you wheel sensors, she will burn out just fine. I have been thinking about cutting the sensor feed back wire and running it to a toggle switch...lol beats unplugging it for the drag strip.
I added the LSD, not sure if its playing apart in all this...
I added the LSD, not sure if its playing apart in all this...
#2413
#2414
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
Wilwood has several BBKs for the Gen I and II MINI Coopers, and TCE Performance Products has some of their own variations of these BBK which makes for a wide range of BBK products for the car. I have the smaller of BBKs that they have available and it is made in two rotor sizes, the 11.75” and the 12.2”. The calipers are radially mounted and only use a spacer to accommodate the larger rotor. There are a number of aftermarket 15” wheels that fit very nicely over the Wilwood BBK with the 11.75” rotors and there are a number of 16” wheels, including MINI wheels, that will fit over the BBK setup with the 12.2” rotor. The Wilwood BBK as marketed uses a 0.81” thick rotor (basically the same as the MINI rotors). TCE markets a variation of that kit with a 1” thick rotor, which I have gone to because of the level of braking required at Watkins Glen. For that track, I run the 12.2” rotors and 17” wheels to maximize brake size and cooling. For short tracks, like Lime Rock Park, I run the 11.75” rotors with my 15” wheels to get the gearing advantage of the smaller wheels and tires, and the reduced unsprung and rotational weight.
If I can find it, I’ll post a link to a picture of my setup.
#2416
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
Thanks.
I have suffered with brake issues over the years on the R56 because there is no way to get cooling to them. WGI is brutal on brakes, with a lot of braking zones that are down hill and 40 to 50 mph changes in speed. 15" wheels trap a lot of heat in the rotors and caliper, whereas the 17" wheels allow the rotors to vent better. I had thought about going with TCE's 13" kit (not the Wilwood 13" kit) but I would loose the option to use the smaller wheels and there is a lot of weight to deal with.
Here is a thread that goes through this in detail with that Wilwood BBK and 15" wheels:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...lwood-bbk.html
Here is a post in that thread with good pictures of a typical fitup:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4427057
Hope this helps.
I have suffered with brake issues over the years on the R56 because there is no way to get cooling to them. WGI is brutal on brakes, with a lot of braking zones that are down hill and 40 to 50 mph changes in speed. 15" wheels trap a lot of heat in the rotors and caliper, whereas the 17" wheels allow the rotors to vent better. I had thought about going with TCE's 13" kit (not the Wilwood 13" kit) but I would loose the option to use the smaller wheels and there is a lot of weight to deal with.
Here is a thread that goes through this in detail with that Wilwood BBK and 15" wheels:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...lwood-bbk.html
Here is a post in that thread with good pictures of a typical fitup:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4427057
Hope this helps.
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