i could be wrong, but my understanding was that option 7, when turned on, suppresses/auto-erases passive codes. option 0 lets you actively erase all codes. prob a question for terry to answer. i know i've had passive codes thrown with the CT installed, resulting in a CEL. maybe we're confusing our terminologies.

 

Silly question, but do you need to use the Sport button to get the added "boost" supplied by the JB+? Or do you receive the results in the non-Sport mode also?

 

You receive it in both sport mode and non-sport mode.

 

Friggin cool! I assume I don't need to mod anything else? I don't want a CAI or change the exhaust etc. to get the improvement.

 

Nope. But I'm sure you'll want a FMIC. Especially if you decide to upgrade to stage 1 or 2 later on when available by BMS.

 

And maybe one step colder plugs?

 

so besides the stiffening of the wheel in sport mode, the jb+ makes the car with or without the sport button the same? or does it leave everything the same, for example a bit more boost in sport mode over without it.

 

Jb+ has no correlation with the sport mode. You will see the added gains at all times.

 

Not needed unless your swapping out your old plugs for new ones. He said no gains will be seen from it.

 

It will autodelete codes that would not normally show a light unless they trigger several times. Like, downpipe codes. Real codes indicating some real issue will always continue to show a light. The CT may try to delete them though eventually so if you get a real code you can always unplug the CT until you have a chance to read it.

 

waiting is not really an issue since i know we will get it eventually, i am not taking anything for granted especially us n18 owners but what are the chances of it being out in december?

also im not sure if i understood it correctly. with the jb+, with or without pressing the sport button my car will perform the same? i know the steering feel would stay as it is now, guess it would be nice to have the same performance with sport on or off since i always have it on and would be an added bonus of only the steering wheel feel changed and i could just use whichever i wanted at a certain time.

 

...really?

 

For auto owners, not having sport mode on is nice since the tranny won't buzz the engine constantly. Manual trans owners can run full time sport mode but for us auto trans people it gets tired unless it's residential roads only. I also don't need heavier steering feel tootling around going 30mph to work, nor do I need the on/off gas pedal mapping.

 

You felt the need to quote me and reply with that? Your answer to my previous post did not clarify it for me so I wanted to make sure I understood it correctly. Unless you are 15, replying to a post like that is odd. I know that I would get the gains with sport on or off but was not sure on the mapping.

 

Don't take it personally. Everyone on here lately is on their period.

 

Lmao!

 

Do they add any 'safety' factor eliminating/reducing hotspots that may cause detonation? Or strictly a warm fuzzy and bragging rights? "Yah, mah plugs are one step colder since I'm tooned."

 

I have the Connected display and was thinking about picking up a CAN tool. Does yours display boost, timing and intake temps with no issues? Anything else about the tool with Connected worth mentioning? Thanks

 

Currently only, boost, timing and AFR are available for the MINI.

Aside for the very slow reading on the speedo(due to the screen in the center) there really isn't anything else that comes to mind.
The tool is certainly worth it just for the simple fact that it eliminates the CEL for DP codes. But keep in mind it must always be hooked up to the OBD.

 

What mapping are you talking about? i don't know how you don't understand that the ONLY thing the JB+ is going to give you is the 20whp, 30wtq. nothing more, nothing less. it doesn't change anything else.

 

Sport mode only changes the steering weighting, and the throttle pedal mapping. It does not affect performance in any way. The change in pedal mapping just makes it feel faster.

The JB+ only affects the MAF sensor, fooling the engine into thinking that it needs to apply more boost to hit it's load target. It will never know if your in sport mode or not. Don't think of this in the same way as a tradition re-flash to the DME, like NM, Evolve, RMW, etc... Only then could you program it to react differently to sport mode. As it is right now, it's just messing with the signal going back to the DME. Nothing more.

The two are completely unrelated, so you get the same gains in sport mode or not.

 

ok thanks, i was talking about the throttle pedal mapping and if it changed that. thanks again for clearing it up.

 

I notice, when in sport mode, that my coolant temp hovers around 185-190 instead of around 215-220 where it normally sits out of sport mode. I was under the impression that this was intentional. Is this some sort of weird coincidence? It seems to behave this way quite reliably.

--Matt

 

This is a '13 thing (did I guess right?). Prior to 2013 the engine runs at 215 mostly and cools down to 185 based on load but then back to 215. Regardless of sport on or off. Also turning the A/C on highest fan, coldest temp setting will run the engine at 185 constantly. This is what I do during the last minute or so of driving before parking to get the temp down and so the car doesn't have to run the fan after the car's off. Not sure if it makes any difference but that's what I do. Mostly.

'13 JCW runs 185 all the time, sport on or off. GP2 who knows?

 

since these tunes are essentially OTS and every car is a little different, (some cars have a lower knock threshold than others and enjoy detonating) so using 1 step colder may be a good idea, but in my opinion, using 93 octane on the BMS tunes is a pretty good safe measure, I used only 93 even stock simply for piece of mind.

over in my subaru world people would frequently use the 91 octane stage 2 map but put in 93, because OTS maps still knock and sometimes bad depending on your particular car so they would use 93 as a safe measure. Thing is, through the accessport they can actually see if they're knocking, we can't see the raw data, only advance via gauges.


Us N18 guys just have the timing advance to go by, which in my opinion isn't exactly optimal in my opinion(but we're limited due to technology at the moment, understandable). reason being, timing advance can remain still for a while and not necessary retard, while detonating. but it can also do that if a constant linear increasing load isn't had for the entire gear pull. so it's really tough to gauge actually how much knock there is. a knock light would be awesome, perhaps a tester could use det cans to really see.