Hi

I bought my self my first cooper s a couple weeks ago, has 142,000km on the clock

I got my self an Alta 17% pulley, Alta exhaust and Alta cai. I fitted the pulley and exhaust today along with a brand new gen 5 super charger. the Alta pulley came with a napa 060539 belt. it sounds like to me that from 4000rpm the bels slipping. im really hoping that its not the coupling slipping on the charger shaft.

has any one else experienced slippage with the 060539 belt on a 17% pulley?

Thanks,

Matt.

 

Belt is too big for 17% pulley.

060535 or 060532 will work. When I ran the 060535 I was replacing them twice a year so I switched to the 060532. Now I get about 13 months from that belt before it starts making noise and slippage.....

Who sold you that belt for that set up ?

 

Way too long....
Alta is still crazy for shipping it with a belt that long....they have been doing it for years with the same predictable results.....

 

Funny as my friend ordered an Alta 15% and it came with the 535 belt marked for a 19%.

 

RThats what Alta supply with the 17% pulley. Glad to hear that this belt is too long. It was starting to worry me.

 

RThats what Alta supply with the 17% pulley. Glad to hear that this belt is too long. It was starting to worry me.

 

If the car has a bunch of miles on it, i would also replace the tensioner for optimal results.
but yes, i run a 532 seems to work pretty well

 

Thanks for all the advice. Being in Australia I think the closest I can get is a 6pk1355, does that sound right?

My next question is gatorback style belts do they provide more grip? I just want the best. Cost isn't a problem these cars are worth it!

Matt.

 

The 535 length belth is very common.....would not be surprised if you can look up the english 535 or 532 belt length on a chart and get a euro mm length sizing belt..oem is actually a mm belt, but through trial and error, have found shorter belts in the same width that work....most are commonly stocked at the bigger auto parts places, and are common on many makes.

 

A few folks have used gatorback belts...they are more about reducing belt whining from miss alignment......general feedback is if you need iy, ok, but a convental belt seems better.

 

Well, I've replaced the belt with a 532 Hasn't seemed to change the noise that I hear.

Basicly from just past 4000rpm I hear a squeely noise at wot only. Is this normal for a 17% pulley to give a squeely intake noise. I'm not sure if I'm being paranoid or not.

Just worried that the pulley may be spinning on the input shaft of the charger. Boost pressure is good tho. Peaks at 15psi which I think is ok?

Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Matt.

 

15 is a little low for a 17%, I would do as Colin suggested & at least check the tensioner, might not be strong enough anymore, that belt size shouldn't slip. If the tensioner is OK, then you may need to try a different brand, I actually had to go to a Bando for my setup simply because of a size difference of only 1mm with availability issues where I am. The composition of the Bando is a little different & offers more grip, but probably won't last as long....but no slip, so it's worth the trade off.

As far as actual pulley/Shaft slippage, it's very rare as long as it was installed & torqued correctly, first thing to do is check your alignment, if it's correct, there's prob. no issue there.

 

Is the noise coming frm the intake area or is it just similar to that what you have heard from an intake ?

If it is a rotational noise on pass side, maybe the idler pulley (#3) is shot or as posted above, worn out belt tensioner assembly (#1).

Did you install any other parts/accessories during this modding session ?

 

It's hard to tell what side its coming from but I suspect drivers side. So belt side (rhd)

All I installed was a new charger, pulley and exhaust. Are there any tests I can do to check for proper function of the tentioner? And where would be the best place to source these parts. Nothings really avalible here in au

Thanks

 

I would suggest Way at www.Waymotorworks.com since he has lots of new OEM parts on hand, but I am not sure if he ships outside of the CONUS anymore. Could also try www.Outmotoring.com

There is no actual "test" I am aware of for the belt tensioner except for maybe if it is making noise. Examination of the tensioner's bushing and pulley bearings should glean something. Go/No-go -

I replaced the one in my MINI at about 80K miles as a measure of preventative maintenance since we were in there anyways, and have over 80K on it's replacement. So far so good, so I really can't say for sure how long they last.

It could also be determined by the type of driving you do as well....If one constantly drives they MCS like the stole it, or has a lot of stop and go driving every day, maybe it would wear out faster than say one which has mostly highway mileage ?

IMO they can't be lifetime so if you have at or close to 80-90K miles on the odometer it wouldn't hurt to change it if you can afford to do so.

There are some aftermarket ones floating around now too. No spring, all hydralic I believe....check around there should be a thead on that fairly new style one.

 

When you installed the pulley, you did use a tourqe wrench, and maybe a dab of threadlocker, like locktite? Folks that install a pulley by feel sometimes do have pulley slippage...can dammage the shaft on the sc.....

 

Yep sure did use locktite and a torque wrench,

Hopefully the torque wrench is accurate.

 

Think i might try the Alta adjustable tensioner stop so i can manually tighten the belt.

that seems to be the cheapest option.

 

even if you have the tensioner stop you still need a working tensioner.

 

With the Alta adjustable tensioner you can adjust it so it applys more tension on the belt. It's not just a stop its a solid arm. It replaces the damper.

 

Its still the cheap and incorrect way out, i really think you should have a working tensioner on there. it would also prevent the need for the stop.
the reason why the oem has a spring and a damper is to dampen the pulses on the belt from spinning of the blower as well as the power pulses from the damper.
Personally i changed my belt and tensioner and I have not had issues on a 17% to 8200 rpm.
You don't have to listen to me but this is just what worked for me.
Keep in mind the damper also can slip and fail.

 

I do understand where your coming from, but the Alta solution suites my budget alittle better atleast for now

 

ever check Ebay? I got my tensioner brand new for less than 100 brand new
its a stock part with the number ground off.

 

Cheerz ill look into it

 

It may fit your budget but it's still not the correct fix. Save your money and do it right once.