Drivetrain Want more power!!!
Would anyone say the sprint booster or d1 is necessary because after I drove a car with the d1 it just seems like a waste of money when all you have to do is change your pedal habits.
Detroit tuned, oh they are in Miami obviously
Here is 288 responses to using a D1 Spec controller
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...w-finally.html
Here is more on the Sprint booster
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...commended.html
You can do a search on both of these and you will see more positive responses and a few negative from non users.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...w-finally.html
Here is more on the Sprint booster
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...commended.html
You can do a search on both of these and you will see more positive responses and a few negative from non users.
I have driven a mini with the d1. All it does is make it so you don't have to change your pedal habits. The main reason it is installed is for people who don't change there pedal habit and don't want there usual throttle position choice to mean almost stalling the car at starts. There is no power gain plus it just gets in the way when you do buy something like the bytetronik and log runs for tuning. I believe it is a waste of money you may feel differently but why pay money for something I can remedy with my right foot.
The main reason it is installed is for people who don't change there pedal habit and don't want there usual throttle position choice to mean almost stalling the car at starts.
There is no power gain
If you dont want one, dont buy it. Yes a tuner like JAN can change the throttle maps to react faster. Funny how they even have a sport button on the newer MINI's to do exactly what the SB or D1 spec do.
Again check these out
Here is 288 responses to using a D1 Spec controller
https://www.northamericanmotoring.com...w-finally.html
Here is more on the Sprint booster
https://www.northamericanmotoring.com...commended.html
You can do a search on both of these and you will see more positive responses and a few negative from non users.
Here is 288 responses to using a D1 Spec controller
https://www.northamericanmotoring.com...w-finally.html
Here is more on the Sprint booster
https://www.northamericanmotoring.com...commended.html
You can do a search on both of these and you will see more positive responses and a few negative from non users.
Sprint Booster is engineered to enhance the driving experience by providing increased acceleration time (eliminating delay/throttle lag) on drive-by-wire cars by continuously measuring and converting the digital signal and providing the ECM (Electronic Control Module) with a new and altered signal for much quicker response. Sprint Booster improves response, increases pedal input sensitivity and delivers more impressive off the line performance you can really feel. In simple terms... when you hit the gas the car reacts immediately! The Sprint Booster eliminates the 1 second delay most cars have between when pressure is applied to the gas pedal and the car actually responds.
Id rather spend the money on a cam.
CRAZY E started this thread and, while I don't want to come off as an "Old Fart", I need to suggest that the best money spent to go faster and have good, safe fun in your MINI would be to start going to well-run driver's schools rather than street racing or trying to prove how fast your car is vs. another's. I've been a DE instructor for over 30 years and I've had a lot of people as students who thought they knew how to drive learn just how much they don't know. Learn how to drive a road course well, then you'll find out that it's all about smoothness, consistency and balance. Improve your suspension, learn to go faster; improve your brakes, learn to go faster; improve your engine, learn to go faster; then start all over. "You just can't eat an elephant in one bite". There's yet another aspect to doing it right: We really don't want to give MINI drivers a bad name...and we really don't want to read about MINI fatalities.
CRAZY E started this thread and, while I don't want to come off as an "Old Fart", I need to suggest that the best money spent to go faster and have good, safe fun in your MINI would be to start going to well-run driver's schools rather than street racing or trying to prove how fast your car is vs. another's. I've been a DE instructor for over 30 years and I've had a lot of people as students who thought they knew how to drive learn just how much they don't know. Learn how to drive a road course well, then you'll find out that it's all about smoothness, consistency and balance. Improve your suspension, learn to go faster; improve your brakes, learn to go faster; improve your engine, learn to go faster; then start all over. "You just can't eat an elephant in one bite". There's yet another aspect to doing it right: We really don't want to give MINI drivers a bad name...and we really don't want to read about MINI fatalities.
A cam is a serious performance upgrade and no you don't need new springs just don't go too aggressive on the cam as the more aggressive ones may require tuning. I just have a hard time believing an add on will make the pedal "faster" and after driving with the d1 I just need to give my car slightly more throttle than normal to emulate one. The car will give you the throttle you demand all these in my opinion all these snake oil fixes do is turn your 15% throttle input into 25% I would say these devices are like the plasma booster and coils as being advertised as performance upgrades.
A cam is a serious performance upgrade and no you don't need new springs just don't go too aggressive on the cam as the more aggressive ones may require tuning. I just have a hard time believing an add on will make the pedal "faster" and after driving with the d1 I just need to give my car slightly more throttle than normal to emulate one. The car will give you the throttle you demand all these in my opinion all these snake oil fixes do is turn your 15% throttle input into 25% I would say these devices are like the plasma booster and coils as being advertised as performance upgrades.
That will depend on the cam but if you really want to do things right save up for a big valve head with a matching cam and you will then have to choose if you want to be jan fan or use bytetroniks for tuning because these tuners like to use different sized injectors. Without a tune 380cc is the biggest injector you can run and that's assuming you have the JCW software. I know because I was getting occasional lean codes with the JCW software on the stock 340cc injectors so I got 400cc injectors but immediately got rich codes and this continued until I got the bytetroniks full access with the 550cc injectors.
FWIW:
I was dynoed at 203.1 in my 2006 R53, that was prior to adding the ATI super damper with the 2% overdrive (from WMW). I have done the following and for the most part in this order:
Alta pulley package 15% with belt, coil pack, & plugs.
Borla street cat back exhaust
Alta header
Craven CAI
Alta front feed intercooler
JCW 380 injectors
WMW tune at AMVIV
The first three made the biggest performance change some of the later were not noticed at all.
Suspension changes include Koni yellow, H&R springs, Alta rear sway bar, Powerflex motor mounts.
Soon to add: Zimmerman F/R rotors, EBC pads, SS brake lines, Hotchkis rear lower control arm, NM rear end links and many Powerflex front suspension bushings.
The knowledge gained from the NAM site has been amazing also, Way at WMW will not steer you wrong and will politely tell you when you are about to waste $$. I always listen to Way and I do appreciate and trust his input, being from Philly, I do not always listen.
Also, I have the Sprint Booster (no increase in HP) which is a BLAST, the car Jumps off the line and revs up quickly. it is fun but takes some time to get used to in stop and go traffic, luckily in eastern WA there is no such thing as stop /go, just open roads and twisty farm & mountain roads.
Again, FWIW.
Gary
I was dynoed at 203.1 in my 2006 R53, that was prior to adding the ATI super damper with the 2% overdrive (from WMW). I have done the following and for the most part in this order:
Alta pulley package 15% with belt, coil pack, & plugs.
Borla street cat back exhaust
Alta header
Craven CAI
Alta front feed intercooler
JCW 380 injectors
WMW tune at AMVIV
The first three made the biggest performance change some of the later were not noticed at all.
Suspension changes include Koni yellow, H&R springs, Alta rear sway bar, Powerflex motor mounts.
Soon to add: Zimmerman F/R rotors, EBC pads, SS brake lines, Hotchkis rear lower control arm, NM rear end links and many Powerflex front suspension bushings.
The knowledge gained from the NAM site has been amazing also, Way at WMW will not steer you wrong and will politely tell you when you are about to waste $$. I always listen to Way and I do appreciate and trust his input, being from Philly, I do not always listen.
Also, I have the Sprint Booster (no increase in HP) which is a BLAST, the car Jumps off the line and revs up quickly. it is fun but takes some time to get used to in stop and go traffic, luckily in eastern WA there is no such thing as stop /go, just open roads and twisty farm & mountain roads.
Again, FWIW.
Gary
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