I bought the Dash Commander App for my iPhone when it was on sale in the App Store for $0.99, plus an Elm 327 OBD II Wi-Fi scan tool for about $20 on Amazon. This version of the Elm creates its own Wi-Fi network in the car to connect to the iPhone - it can't use Bluetooth.

I've just started using the Dash Commander, and the only downside I've found so far is that there's no power switch on the Elm, so you can't leave it plugged in 24/7. So far, I've only used it to monitor timing, intake temperature, MAF, mpg and a couple of other things. The only surprise I've found is that the intake temperature rarely exceeds the ambient temperature by more than 10 degrees when the car is moving.

 

Hello, I'm the owner of a RCZ 200 1.6 THP '13 (n18 engine) with these mods:

Nowadays my RCZ has:
Ecu reprog
Bmc airfilter
Forge boost hoses
Forge intercooler
Forge bypass valve (recirculation)
HJS downpipe with 200 cpsi cat
Supersprint catback

The problem is that according to me the pull of the turbo in the 2nd gear is very few, it seems a NA engine while when I insert the 3rd gear the boost is great. I've seen from an app on my smartphone that the turbo boost in second gear is 0.8bar until 4.500/5000, and then it goes up until 6.000rpms at 1.2 bar. With 3rd gear the boost pressure is 1.4 with a peak of 1.6! According to you, the problem is the map or the fact that 1st and 2nd gear has no overboost? If the problem is the map, what parameters needs to be modified? There is some power limiter or something like that that involve 1st and 2nd gear?

 

I have read all 99 pages and need an honest recommendation.

2013 R56 JCW auto. Only mods under the hood are a Afe dry filter. I normally run mid grade 91 octane gas when commuting.

I do not want to throw a bunch of codes and risk any engine damage.

Given the latter I am very interested in a JB+ unless I am missing something.

 

Nice looking car. Never seen one before.

Peak boost is different for every gear. 1st gear will have the lowest boost. 4th, 5th, 6th gear will have the highest. I believe it is trying to limit torque in the lower gears.

1.6 bar is pretty high. What kind of petro are you using? Hate to see you break a piston.

 

I use only 98 octane petrol. I need to know if someone with the same engine and a remap has the same "sensation" with the 2nd gear, like "where are my 240bhp in 2nd gear in the range between 2.000/5000 rpms?" or "Torque, where are you in 2nd gear?"...

 

What remap do you have?

 

The JB+ is great because of the ease of install. For the JCW start with the dial at 40% not the default 50% if you're on 93 octane. If you're using 91 and don't have access to 93 then I'd start at 30%.

Another choice is Manic. They can flash via the OBD2 port.

Where do you live? Depending on your daily temperatures you might want to consider upgrading the intercooler.

 

what do you mean? The map was done here in Italy but I don't know how I can define what type of remap I have.

 

Is your remap a custom remap or a "standard" remap from a tuning company? Remaps can be drastically different. You are probably going to have to ask the person/company that remapped your ECU if what you are experiencing is normal. They might have remapped it like this on purpose.

 

What about Manic Motorsports. They can tune in or out of vehicle and offer much more impressive hp gains than any of the above. Apparently they have properly broken the code for the N18 motor unlike the others. I even spoke to Jan once and he conveyed that even his tune for the R56 was needing more coding. If interested in learning more about MANIC, shoot me a email
danese0@gmail.com

 

Thanks for the advice. I live in Livermore, CA and work in Sunnyvale. The summers are pretty warm.

An intercooler is on the list for next spring. I can find 93 octane and actually since I mainly use the JCW for runs and weekends it probably makes sense to just shift to 93.

I prefer something I can easily remove i.e., the JB+.

So it sounds like as long as I don't push the limits the JB+ is a safe and reliable choice for my JCW.

 

Where did you get your facts about them being the only one to provide "impressive" gains than the other tuners?

 

It is definitely easier to find 91 octane here in Livermore. Still worth getting the JB+?

 

I just got a Manic Stage 1+ tune on my CM All4S (auto trans) and it's AMAZING. Had a Tyrolsport FMIC and Borla cat-back exhaust put in at the same time.

Full(er) report here:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4044720

 

I get the Chinese FG Tech that lets you read/write DMEs on the bench. I wanted to clone my DME because of a stubborn check engine light. Long story short, i was able to read the original DME. but when i try to write the file into the replacement DME, it wont go through! does anyone have an idea.

 

I'm the noob here, but I've searched for part of this evening and can't seem to find a thread on it (although I'm sure its out there).

Am I correct in understanding that the V2 Accessport will NOT work on my 2012 Cooper S? I just want to make sure before I go blow $500 on one that won't work. . .

Thanks in advance and sorry for the stupid question.

 

It will not. The access port will only work on the MCS N14 engine cars (2007-2010).

 

I read this entire thread...a lot of great info in here! After reading and contacting both NM and ETG and went with NM. All I have in my R60 is a CAI; the results were/are fantastic! The car flies! I did not dyno it before or after; however, my "butt" dyno feels an absolute and considerable increase in power and speed.
Not kidding: it's the best $500 I ever spent on a car!
Thanks, Jerry!

 

I saw manic has a multi stage tuner?