Also a good idea, I'll check that out in like five minutes the next time I walk outside. I've got the intercooler off right now anyway- I'm assuming you're talking about the little black screw cap at the far-right end of the fuel rail, right? Forgive me, I'm doing all of this without a Bentley or Haynes manual, so my terminology is a bit lacking!

:NEW SYMPTOM:
Max threw a CEL at me today while driving home to start tearing down the old motor. Nothing changed, the car still runs smooth... Engine temp, oil temp, battery voltage & oil pressure were all normal. Got the car home and let it cool off for a few hours while I wrenched on the old motor, and when I drove it to my GF's place the CEL returned and stayed lit. I don't have a scan tool, so I'll have to wait until Monday to get him into the shop and properly diagnose things

 

No that a valve at the end of your fuel rail.

The tank vent valve is on the left of the engine if you are facing it. Just look strait back from your oil dip stick. It has to plastic lines, one on top and bottom.

 

I would replace the oil in the supercharger, also replace the o-rings on the injectors before replacing them.

 

Check your old motor...check to see if you have the ecu progeaming to use the jcw380 injectors....the 2004 jcw kit DID NOT GET JCW 380'S....THEY WERE INSTALLED STARTING IN 2005 with the upgraded jcw210 kit....
They can be run no tune ok....not great, but pretty good with a 17%, but a bit too rich on a 15% or smaller pulley...will result is less power due to being overly rich unless you have the proper jcwtune
There are 2 for all pre 2005 models...the regular jcw tune (jcw200) and tv e one gor cars that were upgraded to tge jcw 210 package, the jcw210.

 

Sounds like you might have a bit of a vac leak in the hard plastic lines...they are easy to crack....depending on the code you get, be sure to check them out before spending $$ on parts....imo the likelyhood that a hard plastic vac line was cracked in removing, shipping, then reinstalling a motor is high.....
Good move imo on getting a later gen1 motor....the later tritec motors seem to be consistant in power production....possibly better quality controls production is my guess, but tge upgraded ecu, coated sc, and slightly adjusted tranny gear ratios did also help i bet.
Since you have done an engine swap, i would strongly suggest a odb2 reader....the cheapest ones are about $30 at harbourfreight, better are more like $80, with pro versions costing a few $$$, but havind swapped a motor, the reader is invaluble in trying to track down what line may be loose/unplugged....before you did too deep, look up the fault code....could be a connection that needs a bit of cleaning....hopefuly prettt simple.

 

Mine's got the upgraded injectors- they're the blue ones, right? When I had the kit installed on my car, it was the full 210 HP kit with the exhaust, intake, supercharger, cylinder head, injectors, and tune. So assuming I had the 380cc injectors installed in the old motor, the tune should still be looking for them in the new engine.

On the subject of OBD readers- I definitely plan on grabbing one. Harbor Freight has become my new favorite toy store- I have to swing by there soon to grab the deep-wall sockets needed to pull the longer bolts from the valve cover anyway. As I've started officially wrenching on my own car, I've slowly started building up my tool collection. I just rounded out my set of sockets, breaker bars, and torque wrenches. Next step is that ODB reader, a floor jack, and a pulley puller. I ordered the belt tensioner tool from OutMotoring, should arrive next week.

I'll check the vac lines- thing is, I'm running the VGS, so my vacuum routing is a bit different than stock. I'd think that there would be an increase in vac pressure & more stability in the overall system with the VGS, but then again it has been documented to cause different engines to react differently. All of this will for sure be investigated tomorrow when I get the car into the shop again.

Thanks for all your help, guys! NAM rocks.