I know this is long, but please read if you have time.

Hello all. Firstly I apologize to be repeating any previously posted threads in any other forums; I've done plenty of research prior to posting this and have not found any answers for my particular issue. And I know technically I should put this in the problems/issues forum, but this forum gets the most traffic. So here's the deal:

Back in January I purchased the remote canned tune from Jan via the DimSport tool. At the time, I had the Helix (i.e. Turbosmart Type I) BOV in place of the stock noisemaker; I was using the stock Diverter Valve, and the DDM Works RIS, along with the Helix FMIC and the Invidia Q300 Catback.

Upon flashing the car with the tune, I went out for a test drive. Almost immediately, (the first time I attempted to accelerate fully in 3rd gear) I experienced a sudden power loss which threw the car into Limp Mode, threw a "full engine power not available" code in yellow on the tach, and resulted in almost no power past 2k-3k rpm. I could tell by the noise that the turbo was barely producing any boost. This issue would persist until I turned the vehicle off, then back on. The code would remain on the tach, but full power was restored until the same issue would happen again.

Jan's first reaction was "it's a boost leak. No doubt." I took his word for it, and began disassembling and replacing boost and vacuum lines. After ensuring that every line was tight and without splits or holes, I optimistically went back out to try again. Sure enough, the same power cut occured, over and over again in 2nd-6th gears when I attempted to accelerate fully after rolling at a cruising speed. Oddly, the cut would not occur when I applied WOT from 1st all the way through, usually up until 4th or 5th gear.

After looking around and asking different people, all professional technicians, mechanics, and forced-induction specialists, I settled on the theory that perhaps the spring in the Turbosmart BOV and/or the stock Diverter Valve was too weak to hold under full boost, and that this was the source of the boost leak. I then removed the Turbosmart, replacing it with a noisemaker delete, and replaced the stock diverter valve with Forge's uprated aftermarket unit.

At this point, I was sure I'd found the issue, and once again hit the road optimistically. Sure enough though, the same power cut was still there.
The car would clear the code on the tach after enough cycles, especially with granny-accelerating through the gears onto the freeway and immediately putting it in cruise control, but then putting the pedal down in 4th, 5th, or 6th on the freeway would almost immediately return it to Limp Mode.

Over the last couple months, I have disassembled practically the entire upper portion of the engine, cleaned, replaced, and tightened down any and all connections. I have thoroughly checked all boost and vacuum lines, and have even removed, cleaned, replaced, and tightened the entire exhaust system. I have tested the o2 sensors, constantly upheld a spotless air filter, had the injectors cleaned, and the spark plugs replaced. I have experimented with flashing the car back to stock, driving it for 100 miles (with no issues whatsoever,) and reflashing it to the tune, only to find the same issue arise. I would never dare point fingers at Jan's tune itself, especially considering it's the exact same canned tune countless other r56's are running, issue-free. I am, however, at this point, entirely and severely confused and frustrated.

I suppose my next step is to get a smoke test done to be absolutely sure there's not some unbelievably disguised boost leak in the system, but with how much money I've already thrown away attempting to solve this issue, I figured I'd come to you all in an attempt to find an answer before spending the quoted $150 for the smoke test.

If anyone has any ideas, suggestions, or comments, please post them. I'm far from a professional when it comes to the Mini, but with the wrench time and blood I've put in through the past few months I'm pretty darn sure it's not some simple little thing being overlooked. Thanks a ton everyone, I'll be eagerly awaiting your responses.

--Caleb

 

It would be incredibly helpful to know what the code is......

It will narrow the problem down nicely for you

 

yeah, I need to see if someone in my area has a bavtech tool, I can't afford one at the moment. Autozone could only pull the "fuel level sensor b" code, which I'm not even sure is related. This was secondary to the "full engine power not available" provoking code I still have not figured out. I'll try to figure it out asap. Thanks though Thumper, I know if anyone you'd know where to look with your old torque monster.

 

Knowing the codes will definately help, but I think you may have found the problem.

It might be time to point a finger.

Best of luck.

 

^ +1

You say no issues when you go back to the stock tune....

Wouldn't you see a boost leak there too?

 

Not necessarily.

Sometimes certain leaks will be tiny enough only present themselves over a certain psi...if that's the case, stock boost levels won't be enough to see it this is especially true with DV related leaks.

Find out the code! The thing about all the stupid mini specific codes, although annoying, they really do pinpoint things pretty spot on.

 

I stand corrected.

 

@ ThumperMCS

There's definitely nobody around here with a BavTech. The nearest Mini dealership to me is 2 hours, do you think the local bmw dealership would be able to read the code?

Thanks again
--Caleb

 

^^
Me too.

 

Got the codes read. Here's what showed up, I'm including everything (even the ones I know aren't related to the issue I'm having).

A3AD Message (Engine Data, IDO)
A3AE Message (Engine Speed OAA)
A3AF Message (Specified Roadspeed Value, 200)
931A Fuel Level Sensor, Right

Footwell MOD:
A8B7 Brake light, Right, Faulty
9CAB One Terminal 15 Missing
A8B6 Brake Light, Left, Faulty

Climate:
E717 No Message (Engine Data, IDO)
E71A No Message (Torque 3AA)
E720 No Message (Power Management Consumer/Load Control, 3B3)

DME:
2885 Boost-Pressure Control Deviation, Plausibility
275F Fuel-Level Sensor Electric
27C4 Fuel Level Sensor
D365}
D366}Message Error: DME/DDE
D367}

And I'm clueless, so any ideas?
Thanks again.
--Caleb

 

what does jan say about it?
i had a problem when i first got mine, under WOT in 6th gear around 2000rpm it would stumble for a sec before accelerating. it wouldn't ahappen when stock. i changed the spark plugs but also told Jan and he gave me a few new tunes to try and some tests to do and the last one totally got rid of it and no probs for the last 6 months.

 

Well, here are my thoughts.

As you mentioned, the first tune sent out should be the same tune that have run well on dozens of other cars with a very similar set of mods on them. It is really only after logging runs that a tune can be personalized. This points to some particular aspect of your car that is causing the issue.

I am not too familiar with your car, but am guessing that the MAP sensor is involved in this boost pressure issue. Cleaning, or better replacing (even just swapping with a known good one) would be one of the first things I did. Any other thing that monitors the boost would be on the list too.

If the sensor is reading some high number, it may just toss a code and go limp so it doesn't hurt anything.

Good luck putting this to bed. It's never fun to trouble shoot.

 

This should tell you alot about your problem. When diagnosing a car the best thing you can hope for is the ability to alleviate the problem (even if it's only partial).

if going back to stock fixes your problem then it's kind of obvious it's got something to do with the tune. I would have said get rid of those blowoff valves, but again the car runs fine with them on and no tune right? I don't mean to point fingers espically when I don't have the car in front of me and don't know for sure, but what else could it be? if you have a boost leak, why isn't the car throwing a cell stock?

 

Hi,

I had a very similar problem, which was very difficult to trouble shoot.

My problem was the essentially the same as yours, getting the half yellow full engine power not available mode, with the 2885 boost pressure control implausability code.

There were two differences. Mine is a JCW. Also, mine would do this both stock and with Jan's tune.

The 2885 code is most commonly due to a leaking diverter valve. You say you have replaced this with a forge. What did yours look like when you took it off? Was the diaphragm torn? With the forge, do you definitely have the proper diverter valvle replacement and not the blow off valve? Have you double checking the plumbing to make sure it is intalled correctly.

I took of the stock diverter, which was torn and installed the forge. On my car installing the forge stopped the car going into limp mode. However, something was just not right, and it still would only boost to around 14psi, when it should be 21psi on a JCW.

Eventually I tracked the fault down to a faulty temperature / pressure sensor, part number 13627582551 (note this is the JCW part, not cooper S). Once that was replaced it fixed the problem and it didn't recur.

The whole process was very frustrating and difficult to diagnose.

Robbo

 

You didn't help yourself by removing the helix BOV then putting on a forge DV instead of leaving the stock DV. When trouble shooting you need to only change one variable at a time, so you can determine if that part was the issue.

Another thing, many are immediately pointing at the tune... yet, theres so many people with the same canned tune with no problems, so they say, wouldnt this happen at stock too?

As thumper said, having increased boost levels changes the ball game. Small leaks in a clamp could be hidden enough to not throw a code, a dirty MAF/MAP could be fine with stock boost levels and flow rates that it sees... How do we know that OPs car doesn't run with a reduction of expected power from stock? He wouldn't know the difference unless he drives a perfect stock car back to back with his car.

OP while you're sure your clamps are tight, you don't know if there are any tears in your tubes, possibly a pinhole in your FMIC, if your MAF is covered in oil from your intake, or you have an exhaust leak in your Q300.

As far as your exhaust, i'll give an example: when I installed my catless DP, I didn't replace the gasket between the DP and catback, resulting in an exhaust leak. Logic says an exhaust leak after the turbo would not cause a boost leak, but watching boost levels I wasn't reaching peak or holding target boost. Having gone over everything, no issues. Stock file was hitting 10.3 instead of 11. Tune file was hitting 15 instead of 18, which is a much larger difference.

Got a new gasket and tightened it up... instantly throttle response was back, not stumbling, hit 11 psi on stock file. put on my tune file and hit 18. could have been the turbulence caused from disrupted flow, which, slowed exhaust gas velocity coming out of the turbine outlet. If I was on stock file all the time, never would have guessed anything was wrong.

Just say'n.

I'd suggest- tighten up exhaust clamps or get the thing welded since the Q300's are known to leak on the R56. In fact, I know someone local with one who had a leak at the top of the piping, which caused a wiring harness under the car to melt due to the heat. The increased boost could easily change characteristics, especially O2s or any related readings.

Remove and clean your maf with MAF cleaner. Don't touch the sensor inside.

Remove and clean your MAP sensors.

Put your stock DV back on.. inspect diaphram to make sure its not torn and spring is in good condition.

Lastly, do a pressure test (you can do one yourself with a compressor and a fitting with a pressure gauge on your intake)... look for DIY pressure tests. Car off and pressurize the system to 15 psi... listen for leaks, watch the gauge to make sure it holds. If not, you have a leak.

 

@ turtle343: Haven't been able to get a hold of Jan over the past couple of months. He seemed pretty positive at the beginning of these issues that the problem was indeed with my car, not the tune. I believe him.

@ robbo mcs: When replacing the Diverter Valve with the Forge unit, the stock one was in great condition. I disassembled it and checked the spring and diaphram, everything seemed fine. My reasoning for changing it out was many people's prior theory that perhaps the stock DV was simply too weak to hold under full boost and was leaking. I've checked all plumbing countless times, can't find anything wrong there.

@ SuperCuperErik: Agreed about the variables. Since then I've removed and tested each part individually. I've gone from fully stock back up to having everything back on, one by one, and in different orders. Always the same issue though. And yeah, I totally realize the issue might be as something as small as a pinhole.

I have removed, checked, and replaced the exhaust twice now, I don't want to get it welded only because I've yet to switch to a new downpipe, and until I get my car switched over to GA I can't with the emissions laws. But perhaps getting a new gasket would be a smart move just in case.

I recently cleaned the MAF and MAP sensors, all of them seem to be working fine. As for the DV, I ran the car with the stock unit just the other day and the same issue arose. I'm contemplating getting a stronger spring and trying again, the diaphragm and whatnot are fine, but it just seems very very weak when actuated by hand. Are you still running the stock DV on yours with no issues?

The pressure test is definitely my next move. Never done one before, but I'm sure I can figure it out. Any tips other than what I'll find online?


Thanks again everyone, I really appreciate your advice as I work through this.
--Caleb

 

I have to agree with thumpermcs on this matter man to begin with don't ever hesitate to point the finger when you need to you paid good money to have a canned tuned don't subject yourself to thinking that your car is something someone else payed for.
But before you point fingers you said yourself that you know how to work a wrench. well my friend I will wave at ya when you come down the road.
I have been around mechinics my whole life dad owned a porshe,audi shop in the 70'sI grew up watching him build weird things. other family members racing cigerette boats on the east coast. Workin on cars being poor, fixing all my cars,trucks and other things right out of high school changing head gaskets in apartment complexes for people that were broke. Paying for those gaskets and fixing it for them just so I could see the work that I had done from imobile to mobile through mine own hands.
Getting older doing what I need to have car problems throughout it all. Wanting someone else to do that work for me because I have other obligations. But no the mechinic did not do the job right going down a mountain and the calipar pins snapped. They stripped one of them, brakes started burning up and I knew what it was thinking as I was headed down that mountain of things like all they needed was to put a helicoil in there now I'm thinkin of harry Chapen and the banana truck(I stepped the e brake in my truck). I have other examples but not that much time of situations like these.
I read everything you had to say. You sound smart is it so much for you to believe that you might be smart among a great amount of people in this world when it comes to mechinics. You need to own up to that and take responsibility for being the king my friend. You can sit in the waiting of a auto fix it shop and think through the procedure of what they are doing to the tee while you drink coffee feeling good you don't have to do that brake job yourself. But that don't mean it was second nature for everyone to think that procedure. And ya can't blame people if they get it wrong the first time give people a chance to make good on it.

 

Not necessarily. If you see an error with a performance tune on the car, and not with the stock tune, the simple reaction would be to look at the tune. This is often incorrect, especially if the tuner has used similar tunes with similar mods and boost targets on other cars without errors. A plausibility error can be associated with out-of-spec wastegate duty cycle caused by leaks. If I were looking at this car, the first thing I'd do would be pressure test for boost leaks and then sensor performance.

 

Update

In case anybody has experienced the same problem and is looking to this thread for answers, I've hit the end of the road with it for now. Everything has been checked on my car, and by that I mean everything. There are no boost leaks, no clogged vacuum lines, no issues with the diverter valve, or any of the sensors. The latest result after leaving the car at the dealership for 3 days is that the problem is with the turbo.

The tech said that on the intake side of the turbo the fan blades were blued from heat. They wanted to charge me $900 to remove the turbo and check the exhaust side (which I declined) but the theory is if the intake side got that hot, the exhaust side certainly suffered much worse of an outcome. They believe the fan blades on the exhaust side got so hot that they began to warp, leaving gaps between them and the housing.

I'm now saving up for the JCW turbo from NM Engineering. Until then, looks like I've got a half tuned MINI.

 

man that sucks. do you reckon the extra boost from the tune caused this?

 

Did you check into the carbon buildup issues that many have? Another thought is a plugged CAT.

 

@ turtle343 In my case it doesn't look like the tune was the issue. When I first got the car I was driving the hell out of it in a really hot climate with no fmic or anything like that. That early on neglect/abuse would be the cause of my particular problem. It takes a while to do that to a turbo.

@ HRM Ive had the whole Intake manifold taken off and checked to no avail, and the exhaust seems to be fine. What's the best way to check for a plugged cat?

 

Uf,
This is starting to concern me . Have you try another tune?

 

Are you still getting the P2885 code?
* MINI DTC P2885 - Boost Pressure Control Deviation, plausibility

But if the ECU still see that code, I hate to tell you, there's still something leaking / open.
Have you tracked the vacuum pump line?
* https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ntrol-min.html

Have you completed the smoke / pressure test of all the lines?
I know it's tedious, but you do want a fresh set of eyes to go over things again.

- Erik

 

Thanks Erik. I was definitely skeptical about the turbo issue being the final word from the dealership. It is indeed the same code still, so I'm going to do another pressure/smoke test I suppose. I'm so tired and frustrated from all this I just want to know once and for all if I can fix it or not haha. If I can, that's absolutely amazing. If I can't, well, I might go insane.