i wish oi have the money for the os giken. which clutch kit did you install and how many mileage are you on now? liking the clutch?

 

[QUOTE=Carmichael;3486121]Interesting read. I just had my TOB grenade on me, so I have a clutch job to do. My OBX LSD just came in to my parents' place as well (can't work on cars at my place Gotta love apartments in Chicago). I ordered the belleville springs and bolts, too (from RBryant), so I'll be doing that this weekend.

Curious about the oil passages you machined into the casing. What did you tell your machinist to do? I'm sans-auto for a month, so I might as well do everything I can do the car to make sure it doesn't just die on me again. Thanks in advance.

By the way, I've noticed that although there are people on this forum who are very helpful, most tend to keep their hands clean by letting a mechanic do their work, which is why technical build-up/tear-down threads like this don't get much traffic.


Bryant is awesome when it comes to communicating back and forth.

as far as the extra passage ways the machinist didn't do a good job. if you noticed the passageways are not centered in between the bolt holes. when he was done machining the lower casing he machined the upper case without making sure the two halves passageways lines up. i was so pissed that i was ready to cuz him out. he welded the wrong p-ways and made another one that matches the lower casing. i will never go back to that guy ever again and don't recommend him to anybody. to make long story short he fixed the mistakes and all is ok. a machinist should always be paying attention to details.

i don't recommend doing this to anybody unless they are willing to take the chances of voiding the warranty. for all i know the passageways weakened the lower casing but thats a chance that I'm taking for my tranny.

i have no beef with fellow members not saying anything. i realized i can make this forum as my diary and notes so wherever i am i can just log in and verify something. another thing that came to mind is since my cooper don't have a name yet i thought naming it "POPCORN":popc orn:. what do you think?

 

its red wrinkle.

 

thanks and do you have red popcorn?

 

 

And so i pulled the engine around 82k 200 miles short of the 3500 miles oil change. The 2003 engine/tranny combo never gave me any issue at all except for a snapped serpentine belt. no grinding and overheating issue at all, nothing at all. The OBX LSD inside the 2005 tranny is itching for some action. One of my 2003 cable was damaged during disconnection from the tranny, i bought a 2005 shifter and cables instead of just buying a cable for my 2003 shifter. Now my Helix short shifter needs to go as it wont fit the 05 shifter? Why cant i post pics here? Oh Mr. administrator what's wrong?

 

1ST pic - mileage check at 82,467 miles on 2003 original engine and tranny right before they got yanked.
2nd pic - degreased engine bay, inspected wiring and pipings for wear and tear. had to put rubber on a/c lines for anti chaffing. ordered p/s rack boots to replaced and it turned out the cylinder seals are worn out. there was no indication of bad seals on the rack until i removed the boots, boots where filled with fluid. was going to rework the assembly but opted to buy a re-manufactured one with lifetime warranty, up to this day i'm still waiting for the rack.
3rd pic - JCW staring at the dirty engine.

 

1st pic - there are reports of shaft getting stuck inside the obx lsd because of drive gear machining so i decided to shoved the short shaft (circlip) inside before i close the tranny completeley. i then tried to pull shaft by hand making sure it locked in. i was able to pull out the shaft by hand with lots of muscle power so to me it checked good. the rubber mallet and tool extension is to use just in case it gets stuck.
2nd pic - obx sitting pretty where it belongs. i poured all 2 quarts of redline fluid to leak check the close tranny. i carefully flipped and turned the tranny to check if there are any leaks somewhere. cap and plug the 2 shaft openings unless you want to clean up your floor.

 

1st pic - CM FX100 with CM steel flywheel. i went to a local clutch shop and showed them this disc (8mm thick), the guy said that this is a better organic material compare to what they sell. thier organic material is greyish/black in color. i carefully examined the CM and OEM pressure plate side by side and its the same exact p/plate by LUK. the difference on the CM pressure plate is that it has a beefed up outer straps compare to OEM.
2nd pic - baffled pan with trap doors. i tilted the strips a little so the trap doors are always open towards the oil pick up. the strips are lifted a little from the bottom to facilitate oil change (i should have just made a cut instead of a gap between the floor pan and the strips). welded a bung for a oil temp sensor and replaced my drain plug with a magnetic one.
3rd pic - here the engine and tranny sits steadily awaiting for the power steering rack arrival this week. there were inquiries about the pretty valve cover and header if they are for sale, at first no but then after more inquiries i thought of selling them. i guess after telling them the price they backed off.

to this day everything is ready and on hand for the complete installation except for the p/s rack.
while waiting im going to reposition the upper hose connector (rad side) to clear the line of sight between the grill and the intake manifold (my rad support is trimmed for the incoming air to hit the manifold). i will also solder two wires to the fan resistor solder point for a remote install of a heat sink resistor. if i have time before june 7 i will fabricate a custom bad *** rear diffuser in powdercoat matte black. things coming to mind also are exit hood vents, maybe later

 

The car is finally put back together as soon as my steering rack and ATI damper arrival. The AW2 intercooler will be installed after i ran a few test. I had issue of with my modified oil cooler radiator (leaking at weld points). I had to change out the RH tranny shaft seal for leaks. Doing more leak check and getting her to normal temp are priorities before she hits the road. The remote fan resistor is working, I can't remember when the last time my low fan speed turned on. if everything is good i will drive her with-in 10 miles of my resident just in case something go wrong my insurance will cover the tow At around 60 miles i will retorque critical fasteners to prevent big issues and $$$$$. Pics will follow.

 

 

Just curious if you have any finished pictures and updates yet I just found this build and I have to say great job man, where is the header from? I would love to hear how it all worked out and how it is driving and maybe a few rough estimates on how long things took like the reinstall and the buttoning up. And to see a few pics of it all together would be awesome, that red just makes the top end pop. kudos !

 

Mini mello,

The car was done since May minus the A2W intercooler and rear diffuser.
The header is from OBX which I painstakingly wrapped. Advice on wrapping, make sure wear long sleeve clothing due to material has tiny splintering glass material. The transplant went okay, it was a slow process due to unexpected work/modifications/awaiting parts/funds and working alone on a slopped driveway . First start was a success without a glitch or issue. The car is running excellent, I did my clutch break in under 4k rpm for 600 miles. The following few hundred miles are no more than 5500 rpm. Last week, i did my WOT run without an issue, the clutch is GTG. I also did some re-torque of critical hardwares and fasteners just to make sure nothing is getting un-done. Leak checked is good now. The valve cover is awesome and i like looking at it, it gives a good contrast to the surrounding colors.

Things that got installed/fixed/issues with this 2005 JCW engine/tranny transplant are:

- SHRICK CAMSHAFT
- MODIFIED OBX LSD
- CM FX100 CLUTCH AND LIGHTWEIGHT STEEL FLYWHEEL
- ATI DAMPER
- POWER STEERING RACK
- ENGINE/TRANNY POLY BUSHING
- WRAPPED THE HEADER
- INSTALLED MAGNETIC PLUGS ON ENGINE AND TRANNY
- INSTALLED REMOTE RESISTOR FOR THE LOW SPEED FAN
- INSTALLED A COMPLETELY DIFFERENT ENGINE OIL COOLER
- WELDED BAFFLES AND BUNG ON THE OIL PAN
- INSTALLED VIPER ALARM
- INSTALLED A R50 SPOILER TO COMPLIMENT THE FUBRICATION WING
- REPLACED FRONT BRAKE DISCS
- DRAINED/FLUSHED AND RE-SERVICED ALL FLUIDS
- OIL COOLER LEAKED TWICE ON RADIATOR WELD POINTS
- TRANNY PASSENGER SIDE SHAFT SEAL LEAKED AND REPLACED
- DAMAGED ONE ORIGINAL SHIFTING CABLE AND END UP BUYING 05 SHIFTER AND CABLES LOCALLY
- LOTS OF CLEANING/CUTTING AND REPOSITIONING OF THIS AND THAT

Last week, I fitted the A2W system and once thats installed I will get it tuned. What's on the horizon? NEW COSWORTH BVH (on hand since AMVIV 2010). Overall i'm happy with what i accomplished on this journey (0$$$$ spent on labor). I believed i got cheap new parts from scouring the net for deals. A number of forums including this one has provided me information i needed to tackle this project.

PICTURES WILL BE UPLOADED.

POPCORN

 

1st pic - mini madness a2w intercooler fitting. Note the oil cooler infront of the a/c condenser, red valve and if look closer you'll see the m45 wrapped around with heatshield to block some heat from the engine block and radiator.

2nd pic - ati damper and in this picture is the new power steering rack. Oil cooler lines running in front of the damper.

 

Way to go. Sounds like most swaps. A lot of tinkering. I suppose a little more with the mods. Good job. As long as you didn't end up with that small handful of miscellaneous screws and bolts, it sounds like you're good to go!

 

that came out pretty sweet man good job

 

Fitting water heat exchanger and modifying the lower bumper to accomodate this huge 2 row exchanger.

 

Pump tucked in right in front of the LH wheel. Its perfect where it sits as the air coming from the wheel cools the pump. I had to cut a slit for some air diversion.

A2W circuit housed inside a medication container. It can accomodate an extra 15 amp fuse also.

A2W circuit check good indicator. It gives me a quick check of the relay and fuse visually working or not. Later it will be inside the car.

 

I cut some holes at the lower bumper trim and covered them with screen to avoid pebbles lodging in the A2W heat exchanger.

A2W setup. Overall I'm happy with the set up, but once its heat soak it takes awhile for the IAT to come down. i installed 2 misting jets infront of the heat exchanger to help cooling. On the freeway its a different story with these A2W .

 

Here it is so its located in one thread.

Diffuser project.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ca-on-r53.html

 

Since its a shitty day here I decided to just work inside the garage. I went ahead unboxed the Cosworth BVH. Bought this years ago and set it aside because my interest went to Miata (sold) and to my MR2.

Pic below with all the parts needed to complete this head. I still need to take it to a machinist to get a 5 angle valve seat cut. Basic Coolingmist kit will be a trial and if i like the performance i will get the Aquamist kit in the future.

Blade like partitions on the intake and exhaust. Nice job Cosworth.

Intake port measured at 43.5mm X 23.5mm
Exhaust port at 39mm X 23mm

I hope i see some performance gain with these.

 

Pics

 

Nice....

C ya,
Dutch

 

this does not seem cost effective.

 

Can you clarify your statement above.