I wanted to post these pics of a drive axle taken apart for people like me that have never seen it before and may be thinking of replacing one but might be scared off from the unknown. I was forced into changing mine since it was already up on jacks from changing control arm bushings and ball joints, when I found a ripped boot and it was in pretty bad shape internally, we live on a dirt road.

 

One more. This is a close up of the bearings that mate up to the intermediate bearing from the outside shaft. All the pics are of the right side (pass.) shaft.

 

Nice Post! Once you get the boot off the tripod joint, does the joint just slide out of it's housing or is there a circlip holding it in? What condition was the intermediate bearing in after 244,000 miles?

 

The tripod just slides out of the sleeve. There is a circlip on the bearing that holds it in its hhousing if you have to work on it.

 

I'm going to be doing this this weekend. Wish me luck!

 

Good Luck. It's not really that bad. The shaft can be difficult to slide back in the transmission, but just keep constant pressure on it with your hands and keep wiggling a little and it will go in. Don't hit it with anything. The only reason I say that was I saw a post one time and the guy hit it with a hammer to put it back in the transmission. Bad idea. Getting the bearing unbolted from the car can be a challenge. There are three bolts and one of them can be a pill to get to. Let me know how it goes or if you have a question.

 

GordonP66: the bearings looked good after 244,000 they were just really low on grease, barely any left. At first I didn't think it was too bad till I felt all the grease in the new ones.

 

I got her done with no major issues.

I would say the biggest issue, besides the two top bolts on the bearing bracket, would be the removal of said bracket from the old axle to put on the new axle. The circlip is a bear to get off the old and onto the new (once you get it free from the bracket of course!). All in all it went without a hitch and was a good learning experience for me.

And your point about not using a tool to put the axle back in is a good one. It only took a tug to get it out, and a solid wiggle/push combo to get the new one in. Make sure to line up the splines! You don't want to damage anything!

Oh, and my outer ball joint fused to the steering knuckle. I used a chisel and hammer to separate the ears of the ball joint from the knuckle just enough to get my pickle fork in there to finish off the job.

 

for that stubborn top bolt of the bearing bracket, I found that a long 13MM socket, two long extensions and an angle adaptor allowed me to get to that bolt with a real tool. This allows you to get to it through the opening in the wheel well, rather than from the bottom of the car.

I took it off with an open ended wrench, which seemed to take forever!

 

Great write up

I have a question. I was changing my LCA bushings last week and noticed that my passenger side inner boot was torn. It was a perfect rip just behind the clamp on the small end. I put a zip tie on it for now to limit the amount of leakage but after reading this I am concerned I have a bigger issue. It doesn't seem like any dirt go into the area but now some of the grease is hitting the exhaust and creating a smell. Can I get away with just changing out that boot or do I have to replace the entire short axle?

I am more than capable of the work myself but just not sure exactly what parts I need to get a hold of. Some advice would be great. Thanks!

 

After having done it myself, I think you are better off replacing the entire half shaft.

The boot was torn, right? Who knows for how long and what dirt got in there already. If that join't fails, your car will not move. I think it is best to be proactive and replace it.

My boot only had 2 nail holes in it, but it lost enough grease that it was starting to wear down quickly and began showing signs of eminent failure. Yours is completely torn? I'd replace it.

Just my $.02

 

thanks - I was figuring the same thing but the price is so high for that part. Is this more or less all I need?


31-60-7-574-850-BOE$495.75

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg2.htm#item9

Otherwise I see one on outmotoring for $580 - but I have just spent so much on this thing lately. I guess thats the cost of happiness

 

People recommend the OEMs and I would too, but you're right. The price is high.

I went with this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ls_o00_s00_i00

If I would have found it before I bought the one above, I would have bought this:

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...QA1609280.html

For the added price you get a 3 year warranty (versus 1 year) and I believe the Cardone piece comes with a new bracket assembly. This isn't necessarily needed, but makes the job that much easier.

JUST MAKE SURE YOU ORDER THE CORRECT SIDE (driver's vs. passenger) AND FOR THE CORRECT TRANSMISSION (auto vs. standard)

 

I figure I will save up or have my original axle rebuilt if this one breaks down.

I chose to heed the advice of the forum and AVOID FEQ axles.

 

thanks! I'll check those out and let you know how I make out.

 

no! you should just replace the cv rubber boot! its only 60 bucks from way. i helped my friend do his because he tore his from being so low and it was a cinch. as long as your bearings are all still ok and haven't ripped to pieces your fine. just take off the axle and remove the pin that holds the bearing on the shaft and clean it up real well with some diesel gas or something. slide the new boot on then slide the old bearing on. fill it with the grease that comes with the new boot and seal it to the other side of the axel and your done. just put it back on your car and you just saved like 300 bucks. it will be perfectly fine even if theres a small bit of dirt in there still it will hold up fine

 

I have the right side out of my car right now.

I'd like to add a tip that I used to get the bracket bolts out. Remove the lower engine mount. It's 2 bolts and some fidgeting and you can get it off of the car. That gives you just the access you need to get to the bracket bolts from below.

I'd probably not tried that except for the fact that I just replaced it a few months ago and knew that I could get it out pretty quick. You have to do some tugging on the engine from the front to get it in/out but the time saved on those bolts was well worth the effort.

 

who can advise the type/number of the intermediate ball bearing fixed on the Front passanger right CV Axle Shaft.
Fully distroyed on my 2006 convertible cooper

 

The bearing on the motor? non replaceable, you have to buy a complete axle shaft.

 

I have been through a set of the FEQ axles in just over a year. When we took them apart they had very little grease in them. I am wondering if a person was to take a set and add more grease to them before you installed them if they would last.

 

My axle went bad as well.
How is the Amazon/DTA part holding up? Even if you burn out these axles, you could go through six axles before it equals the price of the OEM part....

 

I have a single ticking noise (just one then stops) coming from my front right wheel area (i think ) at low speeds and also when down shifting could the drive shaft or a torn boot be making that noise?

thanks

 

that might be a ball joint. Jack up the car and tug on all of the components.

 

How did you get the bearing carrier off of the bearing. Did you need a press or did a BFH (big F'in hammer) do the trick?

 

A hammer on the "ears" will do the trick