Question, how do you get the center bearing housing to line up with the bolt holes?

My issue is, I swapped over the housing to a new axle, which didnt go back on easy at all. I thought it to be on as far as it would go, threw the clamp back on and move back to re-installed. When the holes line up and I mount the center bearing, the axle isnt all the way in the transmission, and of course when the axle is all the way in the holes on the center bearing housing dont line up.

End result of axle slightly out, car goes into hear but will not move or stall while in gear. I went through it all again, pounded the housing a little more to see if it would budge, but I swear its on there. Im at a loss. Suggestions?

 

When the transmission input shaft is pushed in, the bearing mount lines up with the holes on the engine block. If they don't, you haven't pushed in all the way or you might have pushed slightly too far. If it won't go in, pull out slightly and then slam the hub/rotor with a hammering motion. That should overcome the circlip resistance. If you went too far, use a wide blade screwdriver to fine tune.

If all that doesn't work, you need to fine tune how far you pressed the bearing housing on to the new bearing.

Car won't drive unless the axle is properly engaged...

I would compare old and new axles to make sure the bearings are in the same location on both axles.

Without a press, You may not be able to get the bearing mount fully to where it needs to be?

 

Check pricing for new axles on Partsgeek and Rock auto parts. very reasonable , not OEM but most of us put non oem mods on our cars all the time

 

Thanks guys. I had the wrong axle :/ oversight on my part.

 

Bummer, hope you were able to exchange

 

driveshaft shop also makes a set of "oe" rated replacements as well as a more expensive pair of uprated axles for heavily modified cars in need of axles to handle over 400 hp.

 

I also used a DriveShaft Shop OE replacement. It was a very good piece of work. Much better than the Asian imports and IMO as good or better than OEM. I bought mine on eBay at half the price of the DriveShaft shop direct.

///Rich

 

So I got the right axle installed now I have a crazy vibration at idle. I know the motor mount it bad, but it never vibrated like that before the axle swap. Any chance the axle is causing the vibration, or does a new axle make the bad motor mount vibration more noticeable?? Thanks!

 

I tried that but it wouldn't budge. Removing the bearing holder is currently my biggest challenge :/

 

Axles would not cause any vibration when the car is not moving.
Loose or damaged motor mount?

 

Sounds like you need to whack harder, need a bigger BFH or a more secure way to hold the work.

 

I whacked but noticed, after clearing out all the grease & debris, there was a cir clip in there and went to battle with that cir clip. after removing that i went to war on the ears and sure enough it came out.lol

 

Should I also look into replacing the old bearing holder cir clip with a new bearing holder cir clip? or could I use the same one with out any problems?

 

time lapse of me replacing the drivers side inner boot without removing the axle from the tranny.

Just mute the sound if you do not like dubstep.




there is no audio commentary, but I think I did a descent job at covering the camera angles and how to do it. Watch the entire video first. Left in the bits where I made uh-ohs.

 

I am currently swapping out the right axle of my mini R50, and I got fluid pouring out of the hole when I removed the axle. Does that mean that I need to replace the seal as well? or is it supposed to be able to drain from there with the axle removed?

Also I would like to add that the Heavy Duty snap-ring pliers from NAPA made that e-clip super easy to remove.

 

Has anyone replaced their passenger side axle yet using the Cardone Select axle (new)?

I think my inner boot is torn and it needs to be swapped out. I believe the only thing that needs to be done with the Cardone unit is the bracket has to be transferred over from the old axle to the new axle.

A little disappointed in the MINI axle. Besides the price, I had the dlrship replace my passenger side axle in 2009 at 44k miles. Now, the inner boot is torn and he is at 110k. Based on my calculations, that is only 66k miles. Maybe a little less since I am sure it was torn a little while before I discovered it.

I just swapped both of my Honda Ody axles recently and the van is at 160k miles. So going to an aftermarket axle seems like it might be worth checking out. I have a Cardone axle on my CRX and that was four years ago, still going strong.

 

Just get the boot repair kit, pretty simple job, and a lot cheaper than a new axle. I haven't heard anything about the Cardon axles, but every non OEM I've tried fails fairly quickly.

Nik

 

I have done a passenge axle before. It's pretty easy. I believe amazon has them for the cheapest right now. The carrier bearing bracket does need to be swapped over from the old one. It shows it installed in the Cardone picture but it does not come with it.

 

Cardone axles are rebuilt oem axles from my understanding and I've never had a problem with them

 

I've had two different passenger axles (rebuilt from OEM) fail at the carrier bearing. However not Cardone axles. They could be better.

Nik

 

I've replaced 1 axle on my car and 2 on other people's cars with cardone axles. Never had one problem with them. Cardone rebuilt axles are $114.

 

Seems to have positive feedback! Ok good. Ive had good luck with Cardone on other vehicles.

The SELECT version of the axle is brand NEW from what I understand. Currently, RockAuto has them for $65 (Left) and $74 (Right) (no core) not including shipping and their 5% every day discount. The Remans go for around $100. (which includes a $35 core)

Good to know.

 

I like amazon because being a prime member I usually get the part within a day but money is money. Either way I like those axles. I have a buddy that has them in his 250 hp mini that he tracks and they have held up in that car without any problems.

 

Very true. But I think we Phoenix folk lucked out as RA has a distribution center in town and that speeds up delivery times a lot.

Oh good. I like hearing stories about track MINIs. If the axles hold up at the track, a city street should be easier. (let the local pot hole jokes begin! hehe)

 

I am about to undertake a right side cv axle replacement on my 2004 Mini Cooper R50. From what i have seen/read it looks straight forward. Question i have is do i have to grease the end that goes into the CVT Automatic Transmission and if so what kind of grease should i use?