Hi! I'm a newbie here and looking to make a few mods on my 2010 MCS. I've been reading here for a couple of evenings so far and it doesn't seem to be a clear direction where everyone is leaning. Realisticly I'm looking to get just a little more than what a stock JCW car has. Which group of mods will get me there? CAI,exhaust (catback,turboback,down pipe),FMIC, tune? Alta AccessPort, RMW? It seems more have a RMW tune but it looks difficult to get?

Thanks in advance!! Scott

 

If you have the N14 engine, the three things you're looking for are:
* ECU programming
* intercooler
* exhaust downpipe

Those are the three most-bang-for-buck modifications.

- Erik

 

Congratulations Scott you've asked the $64 question. Most people would agree with the Bluefox... Downpipe, Exhaust, FMIC, Tune will get you the most but its gonna be expensive like $3500 without adding or installation.

I have a NM CAI and the Hot and Cold side pipes, a Helix FMIC, a Milltek Downpipe Back 2.5” exhaust system. I didn’t do the Downpipe and I have not done the AccessPort yet. I have noticed some modest improvement in power mostly at higher RPMs. This modest improvement is probably a function of the freer breathing of the larger plumbing both on the Suck side as well as the Blow side.

BTW, I have done many many other Mods but I’m discussing these because they are the ones that are relevant to your question.

I mention this because I believe that if you are looking for just increased power, I would say you’d be better off starting with the AccessPort Flash Tuner. The Tune will be responsible for the majority of the total power increase you will experience. On the stock car you could see 25HP instantly, and up to 60-70hp with additional mods. Just be aware of the possible warranty issues related to this mod.

Next you could add a FMIC, a CAI and a Downpipe/Cat back exhaust. Funny thing is that these mods are passive in their effect. They don’t actually create more power themselves but they do allow more power to be produced by removing the systems limitations. They really allow the AccessPort Tune to maximize your car’s potential by making more power.

About the exhaust and Downpipe… The R56S has two points in the exhaust that create limitations. First is the Down-pipe back system. It's too small (under 2") and it has a stuffy muffler. Changing this over to a 2.5" system makes a nice improvement.

Second is the down-pipe itself. Here you need to make a decision... To Cat or not to Cat, that is the question. Whether 'tis nobler in the mind to suffer the slings and arrows of outrageous pollution or to take arms against a sea of pollutants and deal with the limitations of a catted pipe! A catted pipe that is worth your money will separate you from quite a bit of it. A Catless pipe is both less costly and allows the motor to produce a bit more power. There are a number of issues related to changing the down-pipe, warranty concerns and CEL issues to name a few.

If I had to do it all over again I would probably do as I did. I would do all the mods because I enjoyed doing them.

Sorry if this is more than you were looking for but good luck with whatever you do.

 

I got the RMW tune only because it was available before Alta came out with the Accessport. If I were to do it again, I'd go with Alta. ($800)

I've got the Alta intercooler. An intercooler doesn't by itself make any power, it does let the engine make MORE power longer by keeping intake charge temps lower. With the stock IC, the intake charge heats up VERY quickly. Hot intake air can't make as much power because there air is less dense, and has less O2. ($600ish)

Way Motor Works diverter valve, and BSH oil catch can and boost tap. ($300)

I did buy an Invidia exhaust. I had it about a week. The drone was unbearable. (right at 75-80 on the highway you couldn't hear the radio, and it gave me a headache) I'll be trying the Akrapovic exhaust shortly. Way gave me a interesting bit of info. He said any exhaust that cost less than $800 will drone. So the $1630 Akrapovic better work...lol Like twice as good...

One of the first things I did was install the FES autosport module. Never have to push that stupid button again. ($50ish)

Even better are the TSW springs, and Koni shock along with the 19mm HSport rear bar. Anybody can go fast in a straight line... ($200 springs, $800 shocks, $150 bar)

The JCW Alcantara/leather steering wheel is joy every time you touch it. Along with the 2011+ black multifunction controls, and the JCW c/f lower trim part. (about $630 total)

Oh I forgot the Integral Audio sub... ($900)

16" wheel, snow tires, and TPMS sensors, ($1200)

Oh this is depressing...lol

 

My OPINIONS, which some will say are through research/trial/dyno comparos/error/fail/win over the last 4 years. They'll vary from some others, some will agree.
Agree with this. Though, do your bolt on mods before getting tuned. That is, if you get a dyno tune, and not a canned off the shelf generic ecu flash.
FMIC makes a large difference in intake temperatures, talking 10*F over ambient with the FMIC when WOT, vs 60-80*F above ambient with the stock fmic. The stock fmic has plastic end tanks and much smaller surface area, which heat soaks quickly. The downside to higher intake temps is the ecu retarding timing, thus, less power.

The downpipe, I will get into further down this post.

People get "CAI"s or so they call cold air intakes. I call them an open element intake, because, it is that, an open filter, vs the OEM enclosed box that snorkels to the front of the car. The stock air box will work best, but some will get an open intake because you can hear turbo spool and the stock diverter valve recirculating pressurized air. Search youtube for R56 CAI and you will hear it. The reason the R56 "CAI" isn't as good as the stock air box is because it pulls ambient air within the back of the engine bay without means of pressurized air flow, as compared to the stock snorkel that "vacuums" air in from the front of the car. The difference here will be minimal at best within street power levels, so choose based on your taste in sound.

IMO, and as the dyno and street tells me, between my stock car and then straight catback/intake/boost tube, I made 2 HP difference, which was most likely due to varying ambient conditions. When my car was stock, I pulled equally with my friends R56 with turboback, intake, full set of hot/cold side tubes, stock tune. What I'm saying is, the increased noise from all of these parts added surely makes the car feel like its going faster, but when put side to side, its actually not doing anything because the stock ECU is still compensating for the parts and hitting target power levels, nothing more. The higher RPM statement could be true, but we're talking at about 5600-6000RPMs, when the turbo has run out of breath and the marginal increased flow from the upgraded piping helps push a bit more.

A canned tune could provide 25whp or so, agreed. My dyno tune (car was tuned while on the dyno) increased my whp from 172 to 210, and my wtq from 195 to 235, so 38whp, 40wtq increase. You can see the difference between canned and dyno. However, 60-70hp with additional mods is a bit optimistic. If at the crank then maybe, 50whp if you were tuned for water/methanol injection. With just bolt ons? It'd be very hard, and definitely not on a canned tune.

I'm not sure where you got that the stock exhaust is under 2"... but its just under 2.2". At the bottle neck bend it can get down to about 2.1", but definitely nowhere under 2". A 2.5" exhaust from the turbo back will certainly increase gains, again, when tuned for it.

CEL will not be an issue once tuned, as it will cancel out your CEL P0420 code for cat efficieny via O2 sensors. I wouldn't run catless unless tuned, anyways. But between stock DP and catless, you'll see an easy 10-15wtq increase (when tuned with both).

Speaking to catless DPs, please be ready for sperry to bash on his lung health with our choices to go catless. I'm surprised he hasn't already brought it up. Just warning you as a new member so you don't get scared away.

I have an RMW dyno tune. Their tunes produce more power, but, within safe limits. RMW does tuning parties for dyno tunes, where the accessport is a canned tune sent out to you. IMO the accessport is a great tool and can datalog etc, which is great. And while you can get a tool and canned tune from RMW as well, I'd still prefer a dyno tune to really know what YOUR car can do, since each car has noticeable variances from the factory.

=\ IMO no exhaust should cost 1630. A custom exhaust built correctly will not drone, and will run under 600 installed. You can go cheap and yes it will drone. I speak from experience, spent 350 on my catback and it droned. Build it correctly with proper mufflers and resonators and drone will be surpressed. Hell, even if you run a JCW exhaust without the resonator it will drone like a bish. Its all about controlling resonance frequencies based on flow and flowrate characteristics. Myself I didn't mind the "drone" with the catback, but has become much more extreme with my DP, so am now looking into these calculations once its warmer.

 

This

 

agreed, and the NM torque arm bush.

 

You guys have given me some very well thought out comprehensive answers,completed with experience and dyno results! This is very appretiated!


Cheers! Scott

 

Only one guy mentioned the oil catch can, this is pretty important for your car. This will help keep vapors out of your intercooler and many think it reduces carbon build up in the ports.
I have an accessport on my stock MCS, and the difference is very noticeable. My car is an auto (no bashing please), and the throttle response and midrange torque improvements are great. The manual guys get options on throttle response that may make the car more enjoyable to drive. Search the forums for this stuff. If you are looking for power, $700-800 for this seems like a pretty good place to start. Plus it can be updated when you add the FMIC.
If you are unsure of who to ask for help, I will give a plug for Way Motor Works. He will also reccomend the NM engine mount insert, which was also hidden in one of the above comments. This will reduce torque steer for $50.

Enjoy your car.

Mike

 

I don't think that is what I said, but maybe what I said was taken that way. I'll tell you that the cheaper exhausts I have seen many drone complaints from them. Such as the Invidia, Alta, or different custom setups that removed the 2nd cat or with DP's. This also depends on the car and many times the trans, as I've seen more drone complaints on AT trans cars due to the RPM at cruise speed. I've had much better luck with the higher quality which also cost more like the NM, JCW, Milltek, or Akrapovic.
I wasn't trying to push you to feel the Akrapovic was your only choice. But I will say that system is the top of the line, and fits absolutely perfect, and everyone that I've sold one to has been happy. But with the cost it should be those things. It won't be for everyone, but worth the thought.

 

Thanks for that clarification Way. I know the Akrapovic isn't the ONLY choice, but it's the Way cool choice...lol

Any idea why other companies don't put the extra hangers on the mid section. (where it bolts to the chassis brace?) It seems like I really good idea when you are installing a multi piece exhaust.

 

Just wanted to say Erik's post is very helpful IMO. Basically reiterating what was said earlier in this thread but also supplying some great info on why instead of just what.

One thing that was mentioned in passing but I think deserves some focus is a quality water/methanol injection kit. I'm a meth noob (had my Aquamist HFS-3 for only six months) but am a firm believer in its benefits of combustion cooling, intake valves "cleaning", and safe power.

Anyway, congrats on the new R56 and good luck on reaching your goals!