Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Help what injectors to buy

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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 04:46 PM
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Help what injectors to buy

hi sorry if i have to make this thread i just want to have a quick answer on what injector i should buy as i'm from a different country i have to make an order now

basically what i have right now is the 17% pulley ddm intake then will have a milltek exhaust.

i'm thinking of getting 380cc because I'm about to order a lot of stuff in outmotoring website (paypal) of course i'll be having a tune. the other injector that i'm thinking is the rmw 450 injectors because they are cheaper than the jcw ones.

in the future my mod would probably the headers and might be to put a cam. thanks in advance. sorry i don't have the time to search now that's why i'm making a thread.

daily driver car, then maybe i'll track it once a year, 60k miles mileage for a 2005 cooper s. (also ill be buying the diverter and might be the gp intercooler)
 
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 06:00 PM
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Go with the RMW 450cc's. They will allow tuning for a head or cam (or both) in the future. I run the 450's in my car and after the tune not only did I pick up awesome power but I noticed my gas mileage increased as well.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 07:40 PM
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Just get the 380cc injectors it's easier to deal with.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 08:40 PM
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Hi way may i know why it is easier to deal with?
 
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by K20K1LLA
Go with the RMW 450cc's. They will allow tuning for a head or cam (or both) in the future. I run the 450's in my car and after the tune not only did I pick up awesome power but I noticed my gas mileage increased as well.
But would it be ok if i will skip the head and cam first?
 
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 09:02 PM
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Yes. When you get the tune done it will be just as easy to tune for a 380cc injector as a 450cc. A head and cam on top of your other mods will overrun the 380s and require you to get new injectors. Why do the job twice? Be advised, the car will start and run on the 450s but only drive it far enough to get on the dyno. Any farther and you will risk damage to the converter. I installed my injectors just before going on the dyno.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by scoopy
Hi way may i know why it is easier to deal with?
The 380's will be easyer for you because they dont require a tune. You cant run the 450's verry long or hard without going too rich and causing other problems.
Everything you are doing right now the 308's will be adiquate, in the future after a head, cam, and header, you might want to go with the bigger ones.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 11:01 PM
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Ok what is the range of hp if i have 17%pulley ddm intake , exhaust, and 380 injector without a tune how many hp are these? Also, if i have these mods i can use the 380 without a tune can i track this car?
 
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 06:45 PM
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With those mods the 380s will work fine without a tune. It shouldn't lean out, even on a track. Though with a 17% heat soak becomes an issue with successive laps.

To make it simple, if you plan on getting a tune, buy the 450s. If you don't plan on tuning it immediately go with the 380s.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by K20K1LLA
With those mods the 380s will work fine without a tune. It shouldn't lean out, even on a track. Though with a 17% heat soak becomes an issue with successive laps.

To make it simple, if you plan on getting a tune, buy the 450s. If you don't plan on tuning it immediately go with the 380s.

even if you do plan to tune, if ypu ever loose your tune due to a dealer reflash, the car will not be drivable, unless you have a tool to reflash your tune or retune. Dealers often put the newest software on a car/reflash it as a first step when troubleshooting an issue...
So as wmw said, the 380's are easier to deal with...
Just must keep inmind your goals
..both in terms of headache power, and $$$.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 07:31 PM
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with the simple intake, pulley, exhaust setup and definitley you will have a tune is 380cc will be the same as the 450cc? (in terms of their power with just those mods)
 
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 08:02 PM
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ok i guess 380 it is
 
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 08:02 PM
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what to put on the car to make it at 200-220hp? or 190-200 whp? thanks.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by scoopy
what to put on the car to make it at 200-220hp? or 190-200 whp? thanks.
To reach your 200+ goal
I'd get the 450s then get a MyGenius flash tool for loading tunes and use it incase the dealer reflashes.
Any intake
Any header(a Mynes v2, megan racing or obx will do)
Any exhaust or even a custom one-ball setup.
Any 15% pulley I wouldn't go any higher
Nitrostick 1 cam
 
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by ThatMiNiGuy
To reach your 200+ goal
I'd get the 450s then get a MyGenius flash tool for loading tunes and use it incase the dealer reflashes.
Any intake
Any header(a Mynes v2, megan racing or obx will do)
Any exhaust or even a custom one-ball setup.
Any 15% pulley I wouldn't go any higher
Nitrostick 1 cam
already got 17% pulley, for the header what about rmw headers?
 
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 11:17 PM
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just a quick question also why would the dealer reflashes your ecu? when you reset your ecu will the tune still be there? or the ecu will get back to the stock settings? thanks
 
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 11:52 PM
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Clearing codes or reset learning is different than flashing over your ecu software(tune). I gather that a dealer would clear/reset before a reflash, though I never had an issue with them reflashing, and remembered they actually called me first about a JCW software update that I didn't want since I was running on a tune. All dealers are different and some do things for the "better" without your consent, not knowing they just flashed over a custom tune. Some do it because it may be a standard procedure for the symptoms the vehicle is experiencing.

Also you usually can have your tuner resend the file at no cost. Bring a laptop and flash tool, use the WiFi while you wait, just in case you need it.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 12:13 AM
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As usual PAI = worthlessness! The dealer WILL flash over the latest software without you knowing and will lose your tune file forever if you or your tuner has no way to back it up.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 12:39 AM
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Originally Posted by scoopy
already got 17% pulley, for the header what about rmw headers?
17% is fine if you're not tracking your car or doing extended 5th-6th gear WOT pulls on the highway.

All headers will make power over stock. I wouldn't know specifically which header makes what. Nobody in the MINI world has publicly taken the popular 5 brands and put them all on a stock or mildly modded MINI on the same day/dyno like other car communities usually do for comparisons.

Though I will say any catted 4-1 on the market is better than stock for a few reasons. Weighs less.. 1 less cat.. longer primaries.. 1.5" primaries.. 2.5" collector.. bling. TBH it's all in what you want to spend and who you want to support, you can't go wrong with which way you go.

And FWIW I would buy a non catted 4-1 and reuse the stock cat, you just gotta enlarge the openings for 2.5" piping.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 12:44 AM
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Originally Posted by ThatMiNiGuy
Clearing codes or reset learning is different than flashing over your ecu software(tune). I gather that a dealer would clear/reset before a reflash, though I never had an issue with them reflashing, and remembered they actually called me first about a JCW software update that I didn't want since I was running on a tune. All dealers are different and some do things for the "better" without your consent, not knowing they just flashed over a custom tune. Some do it because it may be a standard procedure for the symptoms the vehicle is experiencing.

Also you usually can have your tuner resend the file at no cost. Bring a laptop and flash tool, use the WiFi while you wait, just in case you need it.
As already said^^
 
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 05:59 AM
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Originally Posted by ThatMiNiGuy
17% is fine if you're not tracking your car or doing extended 5th-6th gear WOT pulls on the highway.

All headers will make power over stock. I wouldn't know specifically which header makes what. Nobody in the MINI world has publicly taken the popular 5 brands and put them all on a stock or mildly modded MINI on the same day/dyno like other car communities usually do for comparisons.

Though I will say any catted 4-1 on the market is better than stock for a few reasons. Weighs less.. 1 less cat.. longer primaries.. 1.5" primaries.. 2.5" collector.. bling. TBH it's all in what you want to spend and who you want to support, you can't go wrong with which way you go.

And FWIW I would buy a non catted 4-1 and reuse the stock cat, you just gotta enlarge the openings for 2.5" piping.
when you say wot on 5th and 6th gear what rpm range is that? up to redline all the time?
 
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by scoopy
when you say wot on 5th and 6th gear what rpm range is that? up to redline all the time?
With a 17% pulley your charger will redline before your motor will. If you are livng in the 5-7krpm area at wide open throttle that's when you start producing more heat and spinning beyond eatons efficient map. A 20minute track session would be this scenario.

There are people running 17-19% pulleys for track but they are also using at least a GP intercooler or larger. And/or a water/meth kit.

You might want a detroit tuned bpv with tha 17% too

Do some searching there are threads specfically about this or talk to the supplier you got the 17% from.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 06:27 AM
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yeah will be buying the ati damper crank pulley, detroit tuned bov, ddm intercooler diverter but one in a while it is ok to redline the car right? hehe thanks for the reply. i read it somewhere that the stock intercooler is almost as good as the other other intercooler...
 
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 10:46 AM
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With the 380's, intake, pulley, and exaust, you should be at about 200 with a tune.
To be honest, much more,and you need to look at doing a clutch soon, wider, stickier tires, etc...
200 to the wheels is lots of fun...and pretty cheap...and easy to revert back with a factory tune.
if you spend $300 more for a tune tool, you can endure kepong your tune...kinda...the tuner may still need to get involved...but you will be able to upload it again if you get an inadverdant dealer reflash...
Going to much higher power levels are possible....but entails more hassels...but maybe more fun...but perhaps more stress on the motor...
in the grand scheme of things, a sc is prettt cheap, and easy to replace, compared to pistons, heads, etc....
The 17% is great for the street, with ocassional redlining....do lots, then you might make more hp witg your driving style with the 15 than the 17%....

My guess is the 380's can support about 210hp, like on the jcw, with very safe tunes....more with an agressive tune....
In my book many yeas if trouble free fun, and a safe tune was the way to go...still s blast, and easy on the wallet, and no downtime...perfect for a dailydriver.
you just need to pick a goal....and build the car around that goal...fun daildriver, monster mini for bragging rites, garage queen, weekend hobby car...etc. the higher the hp, the harder the repairs, the bigger the hassle....
 
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 04:28 PM
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at what hp do you need to change the clutch for r53? I just got my mcs last october and it had a new clutch from the dealer last april. i just want to have a fun dailydriver that has about 190-200whp with the exception of "not" stressing the motor too much. my soon to be wife loves to drive my mini even if it's a stick. Her main concern was the pedal is not as responsive as the other cars. she's driving an bmw x5 diesel so she has torque. hence i got the 17% pulley hehe..
 
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