Mr Soccerbummer I think you can get all of what you are doing to work. Your biggest problem, IMHO, will be heat - you have a bunch of heat producers on a stocker in a real tight space.
Looking forward to see how you do - Best of

 

Thanks Stevecars60. Currently working on preventing that exact scenario. I have actually removed the factory exhaust heat shielding and the plastic shroud that separates the engine bay from the DSC module and brake fluid resevoirs (the "cowl" areas") and am currently using our cardbard CNC to design a new sheld back there. It will be swaintech coated aluminum in the end (or that is my current thought) and backed with heat resistent material. (also making new power steering and coolant overflow tanks) Also planning on coating most of the exhaust components with swaintech coatings and beefing up some of the heat-shielding around electrical connectors and the head.

My largest "bang the head on the wall" problem right now is attempting to design a s/c outlet + intercooler + intake manifold setup. lots of time in cad and measuring clearances. ViPEC is here tomorrow followed by a new fuel pump and some injector dynamics Bosch EV14k 1300cc injectors (not modified, high impedance, will work on 340cc/cylinder applications! )

 

"design a s/c outlet + intercooler + intake manifold setup" = everything! Less the head, rods, pistons, radiator w/super flow & some great lube system.
This is a street car, yes? When I say street, you're going to drive it every day. Too much power = drive train issues.
If this build is intended to be a super quick street car, DD, sleeper... not a track car ( ever, I've made that mistake ) then this could be a successful build.
I have a template for the radiator intake that might be of some use, I'll pm a pic....

 

Correct. This is a full interrior "DD" car. I actually have a different DD (2010 GTI autobahn), but the mini is going to be my cruise through the mountains and thrash it through the twistys car and then have a little something extra on the side for those highway passing moments

Rods and pistons will likely come after I get the turbo situated. Will be doing this as an iterative process.
Stage 1:
A:
get vipec running and the car driving well (also includes general preventive maintenance. New timing chain, chain guides, cam tensioner, main bearings and crank kit) The car has new-ish (less than 10K miles) rings and the block was honed at the time. All measurements in spec. [already has ATi crank pulley and will be getting the ALTA adjustable tensioner to make sure that does not get destroyed.
B: re-configure engine bay to clear up "wasted space"
c: install Injector Dynamics 1300CC injectors (Bosch Motorsport EV14 custom core (not modified). Will work at pulse-widths down to low idle on a 325cc motor.)
stage 2: install turbo, make charge piping, re-work cooling system.
- Tune and run motor at 18psi of boost pressure max.
Stage 3: if stage 2 is working well and no "iffy " events,
-> inspect rod and main bearings for signs of detonation (should have seen it in logs and noticed it, but good to always check!)
-> replace rods and pistons and head studs
-> re-work head with Thumper (who I think I will be going with) and prepare head for ALS.
(the header will be made from schedule 40 304SS [pie cut baby!] to handle the ALS)

 

Step A & is obvious.

What are you running for injectors now?

The OE pistons have a shallow top ring, detonation kills them. The OE rods & pistons are underrated - they are better than most think BUT they are NO match for a CP. The OE rods are also pretty good. For a high boost engine, long duration runs will kill the OE parts - I'm sure you have taken this into consideration.

The head is the biggy. That's where the big power is. You already have the cam - the head & header would be the next step ( I have a spare "S" head with less than 30k ). With power, there's heat - you'll get an idea of how much. AND.... Believe me - it will be quick.

After step a, b & c, I would build the engine - rods - pistons - head. Even if you don't get to the turbo install, you've built equity & reliability into the car, not to mention high HP & reliability.

You have a lot of work to do. You can save & buy some time doing the bigger operations first.

 

My only question is... Why cheap out on a lesser quality hand ported head, when for only a couple hundred snails more, you can have the most proven and consistent CNC head on the market? Ive seen some pictures of Thumpers recent work... Not very good if you ask me. Maybe his old hands are getting a bit wobbly in his years of holding a die grinder.

 

there is bad blood on both ends about heads. ****, PM me your suggestion. Do not want to detract from this thread.

side note,

CHRISTMAS IN JUUNNEEE!!!!

 

as for current injectors. Stockers. No worries. Lowering the rev limit for now. (Don't run them past 90% duty cycle. Doesn't take much!) The injectors will most likely be a soon upgrade. I'm just between ID (injector dynamics, they are extremely well done and "modify" injectors, but not your typical drill job. Quality work) ID850cc injectors (modified bosch ev14 core) or go with their fully collaborative with Bosch Motorsports ID1300cc injectors. The 1300's will still work down to 320cc/cylinder at idle on most cars and are incredibly accurate at those low pulsewidths. however, you pay for custom. 850cc's are $115/per vs the 1300's are $195/per, but are flow matched and dyno'd and completely original bosch cores with an excellent spray pattern.

And I know about the heat. Our cars are ridonculous. Already melted a piston once before. After that I have since installed an EGT gauge as well. haha.

 

If you wen to the trouble of buying an expensive ECU to control your project correctly why would you cheap out on re drilled injectors?

 

I knew saying that would have someone who doesn't know who injector dynamics are go "why in the world would you get re-drilled injectors!".
Give them a look over. Not your typical ebay drill job. Lots of people in the r34 GTR and other high end shops and project cars use them. They custom machine new nozels and re-valve the internals. They then flow test, evaluate spray patern and atomization, and ship out only units that meet there own specs and are all flow matched to within 1% for each set they send out.
Plus at $115/injector, I would not call it "cheaping" out.

 

Hey Rick, your car??? How are you doing? Hope all is well.

soccerbummer, 1300 is a big number, 600 would give you about 340hp w/85%. I know some would say 1300 is a scalable number for your app, it's a lot of overkill!

Personally I don't worry too much about drilled injectors, it's been done successfully for years. As long as they are flow & patterned tested, they aren't much, if any different, than OE. You just need to have the best, most reputable, vendor possible, sounds like you have 1.

 

the problems with the 600's is that when the car starts drinking E85 that duty cycle will go through the roof. 800's are my minimum. Plus they come in short's (33.6mm between O-rings, optional extenders to take them to 48mm (standard) ) so when I make the intake manifold I will gain a few precious millimeters (its going to be tight!)

 

Curious, Does anyone know what the stock fuel pump rating is?

 

Your going to need a booster, or a new system.

 

Not certain of the rating but according to my gauge, 63psi @ WOT, I think I've seen 65 before.
That's at the rail.

 

+1 "Your going to need a booster, or a new system." The OE system can't handle the volume ( E85 ). Mr Rick, "Dicks Garage", may have the most experience w/E85.

 

++1, the only way the stock pump alone would be enough w/ E85 would be if you "Never" opened it up, like Rick said, at least a booster, possibly a regulator with a return system also depending on the range & end demand.

 

The questions your asking are making me wonder how good of a idea this really is.

 

I was just curious as to the capacity. Ive already planned out the fuel system I will be using. (return type system with walbro 485 in-tank pump. Just heard back from bosch motorsports (in germany) They will be hand-making and matching a set of bosch 950cc injectors (EV14 with jetronic hook-up) in there sample room for me !

 

950s should work very well.

Are you looking "capacity" as volume, GPM? If so the 950s & the 485 will supply more than you need ( that's well over 200 liters per hour - you could use a walbro 255 = 255 liters per hour ) - you'll need an FPR & your good to go....

 

so since I apparently have a semi-captive audience, new question:
Camshaft recomendations?
obviously the current cat-cam I am running has too much overlap for a propper turbo setup, so do I go with a less aggressive street camshaft (but still for S/C)? (Cat-cam street cam ? ns1/2 newman)

Or would I be better off with a Cat-Cam turbo camshaft?
Seeing as I will be swapping the pulley to underdrive slightly, I was leaning towards the turbo shaft, but am curious as to the communities opinion.

link for VAC motorsports CAT Cam page
http://store.vacmotorsports.com/cat-...ams-p2358.aspx

 

Call Jan at RMW... With as many cam's as he offers (most aren't advertised) he will have and know what one you need.

 

The cam choice would be a long discussion. The head could be the determining factor.
How aggressive do you want to go? There's a lot to talk about......
+1 for Mr Rick. It would be best to talk to RMW.

 

Don't forget, most cams are going to give you a similar power bump, cam choice is more about "where" you want/need the power.

This is just a guess, but odds are you'll be making a lot of torque, so prob. best with something that works better up top, if nothing else but to have something that will help you with what may be some serious traction issues.

 

very true blwnaway. At least the ViPEC has a boost control function! haha. I will be using an AEM boost solenoid wired to the ECU to limit boost by gear, speed, rpm, fuel type as well as coolant temp.