What size nozzle are you running?

 

I'm on a .6mm currently...

Was running a .7 but it was faulty so just waiting for Jeff to send me a new one.

 

Dude we need to chip in and get you a camera charger so we can hurry up and see pics of your shiny clean valves.

I'd take pics of mine but I is mechanically challenged.

 

I was wondering if you have some data to share with us. It would be very enlightening if there was a comparison before and after WI.
IATs , EGTs are very important and if there is a difference in boost pressure it would be very interesting.
Have you dynoed it after the Aquamist was fitted?

Really interested...

 

No IAT data, as I have the jet after the t-Map. No EGT data as I do not have an EGT probe. No change in boost pressure, I run roughly 20psi and it still runs 20psi. AFR's stay wherever your tune tells them to be. Even with 100% meth and a .8mm jet, AFR's stay exactly where they should (really awesome). I will say the car has never ran as strong or as well as it does post-Aquamist.

I have a dyno post-Aquamist, but nothing to compare it to for you. Plus the dyno was on a weak tune to prevent boost cuts from occurring. 219whp/260wtrq

And FWIW, I'm joining the R53 world shortly, so no more R56 data for me.

 

 

Thanks for your feedback and good luck with the R53 project.

Ps: it had also crossed my mind...cause it's so much more tunable.

 

Yep, and they'll run all day long at 250+whp and actually stay together.

The R56 has certainly been fun and I'll miss it, but it's time to go back to my R53 roots. Figured I'll quit while I'm ahead too.

 

Join the 1M world and get well over 400whp on pump gas and right wheel drive.

 

Cool car but too much $

 

You going to do a rmw stroker?

 

I can do this for you. Can't get on a dyno, because there is something fundamentally wrong with my engine and I don't want to blow it up lol.

Will be able to give you IAT differences, (not EGTs because there is no probe). Boost is ECU controlled, so that won't change. I'm sure mass air flow will be higher with HFS-3 activated.

Bear in mind though, that water/meth doesn't show much on a dyno or on a cold day. Water/meth has benefits like cylinder cooling and knock retardation. For example, if you go to the track and get two cars, one with W/M and the other without, the one running W/M will be in a much healthier state, and will run as if it's a very cold day. Basically no heat soak. Also, great to have a tuned car with W/M. A tuned car with W/M is actually safer than a stock tuned car (assuming the tune is not made by an idiot)

I'll do some datalogs

 

Thank you for your interest, I really appreciate it. I am puzzled whether I should fit the Aquamist system or another system for Intercooler spray. I want to combine CryO2 with simple water spray cause together they produce a cooling effect which lasts longer and literally freezes the external face of the IC and subsequently the IAT drops.

 

IATs are important, but the benefits of the WMI kit doesn't just end there.

It also cleans your intake valves, cools your cylinders, increases octane (and thus knock resistance), cleans your cylinders, and you can run more aggressive tunes.

I basically bought mine to keep my intake valves clean and stop my pistons from cracking, and I'm of the belief that anyone with an R56 that wants longevity and wants to drive it hard, absolutely needs a WMI system.

 

Etalj

Whats up with the engine in your Jcw?Maybe I can help.

 

I agree with you on the side effects of the WMI kit, nonetheless fitting such a system is not so straight forward. Complexity comes into the equation with questions like: where to put the nozzle, what nozzle size, duration of spray, electrical work, tank, gauge to mount, long term longevity of pipe internals etc. I know the options to the previous questions but what I don't know is the final outcome. And IMHO if you don't spray continuously don't expect to have full cleaning effect, especially if you don't keep your boost pipes/intake manifold free of oil fumes. WMI could be combined with two separate oil/air seperators of the correct size (czar's suggestion) and fight the carbon build up.

But as you already stated, what about the pistons? If the pistons finally are not so happy and they induce cracks even with the addition of such a system, again we have to consider stronger materials.

So to conclude, if the benefit is not so significant it may not worth the truble. But if there are undoubted gains like healthier engine and more horsepower then I will go for it. So, I collect as many data as possible to make up my mind. And thank you for sharing with the community.

 

Well in terms of where to place the nozzle, size, duration of spray, etc:

That is all taken care of when you buy a comprehensive kit like the Howerton Eng HFS-3. The how-to is fantastic, any idiot could do it.

The gauge mount I made up in about 10 mins out of scrap metal, and it's awesome.

You don't really need a continuous cleaning of the valves (you don't always have to wash your plates and cutlery, as long as you clean them regularly!).

And yes, you would definitely need to have some sort of oil catch can (which I do), and you won't get any pooling of oil in the pipework.

The pistons in our cars are known to fail, and although we don't really know why it fails, we can be sure that they aren't really up to the job. Even if we don't know the exact reason, we know that excessive heat is going to be a catalyst for failure (I doubt a piston would crack while the engine is relatively cool).

The only variable I'm not to knowledgeable with is the corrosive properties of meth, but to be honest, I have done a fair bit of reading on that topic, and the general consensus is no damage will be done, and that even if there were to be some damage, the repair bill would be much cheaper than a new set of pistons.

 

The pistons fail because they have been machined from the wrong alloy and wrong spec.

Use a 50/50 mix and you will not have corrosion

 

Well there you go.

I know that my pistons will go, and I will end up with Carillos

 

Your pistons fail simply because you have a detonation issue, the Mahle pistons have not been produced from the wrong alloy or incorrect specifications, they are perfectly fine, any amount of excess carbon on the piston crown creates hot spots and this will cause detonation from the charge fuel/air mix igniting at the wrong time, this in turn puts huge compressional forces onto the piston at the wrong time, and this over many many repetitions will always destroy any piston, regardless of manufacturer!

 

Roger

Never had a piston failure on my personal mini but have heard many horror storys from other shops .Of the 2 prince engines I have built both have had aftermarket rods and pistons and water/meth.

 

probably because water/meth cleans the pistons/cylinders. Therefore, no hot spots

 

Anyone installed a WMI System on the new (2011) N-18 engine???

 

Resurrecting! Doing my install now and am confused by where to tap the dimmer/purple wire too.

 

I think I can help. Can you tell me your exact model and year. And the VIN.

Ray