I think he meant that he's short $1200

 

LB, EVASIVE is correct, I am now only $700.00 short of running down to CO. SPRINGS and picking up the S/C.
Retail is listed at $3100.00 and some change, Tuning is not really a big isue (same boost, slightly more volume) you can use your existing tune, even if it's stock. Installation is as easy as taking the M45 off, if you have the tools you can do it.

For me I will be doing the install, and the tune myself. MYNES's BYTETRONIK S/W is amasing once you learn what and how much to adjust. (And there is NO EGOTISTIC TUNER necessary!)

 

This will be good

 

^ Tuning a car is not brain surgery and with the FA Bytetronik software it is easy

 

As your so good, why aren't you doing it then Also, if this software is sooooo good, then why are you still running the Haltech?? Wouldn't it be pointless to run the both? I'f it is for your water sprayer then you can get a pressure switch for that and if it so you can switch maps, why not just create another map!!!

I'll be the first to admit I can't do it, to be honest I'm not that interested in doing it......I would rather leave it to the experts that have been in it long enough to know what they are doing

 

Ask dicks if it is simple.

Did you purchase the Byte software D? I hear all the real development of that software was done by an Australian guy .

Longboard

 

D-MAN's HALITEC setup works well for him, why warrant a change to do somthing else to complete the same task with the same results? Tuning is tuning, as long as the ECU wont adapt and block out your changes (UniCrap).

The FA software was a little bit of a chore to learn at first, but once you get the idea of what does what, it's really pretty simple. Just remember to make small changes, that way if you make a mistake, it's easyer to correct. TOBZ was having a hard time with it, because the torque management software in the ECU is verry delicate, and most of the Japaneese ECU's he deals with you can just turn that feature off. Just when we where really geting to coax some good power out of it is when my M45 locked up and ended any further progress. Now we are pretty sure what we need to do to get the good numbers out of the car.
Even the first tune that TOBZ wrote for my car was nowhere near perfect. So I crossed some of the values from that tune with some of the values from a partial tune that the guys at MYNES sent me, blended them togeather, and set my own target AFR, and ended up with a map that was down a few HP from the last session, but had way more TQ in the mid range. All I had to do was drive the car around for a day logging and seting AFR's and timing.

 

Production kit pic's.







Notice its NOTHING like the pre production units mentioned in this thread.
(They look like this)

 

I've seen plenty of "street" kits where they use the excuse that it's a "street" part to really indicate it just isn't fully developed.

If it can't hack it at the track for at least 20 minute sessions, IMO it's pretty worthless as the stock s/c will do that.

 

It does look the ducks nuts, will see what happens when you stick it on

 

I t is NOT being marketed as a street kit. It is quite amazing how quick somebody can throw out an "I THINK yada yada yada" and all of a sudden it becomes a fact with no research behind it on this forum. There is and as of now there is only going to be one kit avalible. Yes there is already a slightly smaller pulley, that raises the boost a little, but it still does not break the 15000 RPM COMTINUOUS rating of the S/C. YES on MYNES STAGE 2 test car it does put out 19 psi, and they do rev the engine to 8000 RPM. If you actually LOOK at the graphs and logs posted here, the boost will actually fall off in the upper RPM, because of the TPR1 (SMALL VALVE) head. If you are trying to push 20 psi with a BVH (which naturally sees LOWER boost levels on S/C engines) YOU ARE EXCEEDING THE SPECS OF THE BLOWER! Your boost pressure does not need to be that high to make power, there comes a point where your trying to make so much boost that any traditional style (ROOTS/TWIN SCREW) makes nothing but heat, and the efficiency of the S/C drops off. That is why SPRINTEX is keeping the boost low. If you feel that you need more boost than this S/C can effectively put out for any reason or another, look into another S/C, or a turbo, better yet try another car (GET AN EVO THEY LOVE 30+ psi)

Look at the differences between the prototype and production units. The snout bearing in the prototype had a VERRY weak lubrication system. That bearing would heat up as a result, causing higher inlet temps over a few runs. Guess what look at the production model, the entire snout housing was revised, with a different casting, and far superior lubrication and higher fluid capacity.
The tensioner, WHO KNOWS WHAT THEY WHERE THINKING WITH THAT PROTOTYPE! As you can see they scraped that idea (Thank whatever you belive in) NO the new unit is not a stock tensioner!
And lastly if you can break a weld on that outlet, I will give you a dollar.

Just look at the FACTS, and the MAXIMUM OPPERATING SPECS, NOT whos name is or isn't on it. You cant base all your information on a old pre production prototype, things in that phase of production do change for the better.


(WHOLLY $*** I CAN'T BELIVE I JUST TYPED ALL THAT ON A PS3!!!)

 

I want this thing to go well as much as you do. Given that this is very new in the market, I'm just hoping Sprintex will provide you with enough support as you go through this. As we all start hitting high miles on our stock SC's, many of us will look for replacement options. The more options we have, the better of we will all be.

I do like that electric water pump. Wonder if Sprintex would consider selling them as a separate unit.

 

Really? Then you are not into modding I could give a darn about tracking....I dont do it I will love to have the extra umpp to get to 7-11 though

I work with a guy that has a 06 GTO, he stuck a Magnuson SC on it, built the motor, it now has 550whp...he wants to now get the bigger SC they have....he has NEVER gone to a track and NEVER will, he likes more power, why cant we?

 

 

+1.... I love my ByteTroniK

 

Well I guess that is 3 BytetroniK guys who dont care about brands, just making real power, thats all for it. A few that are too cought up with the egotistic schmucks of the MINI world, that are dead set against it. And a few that are still on the fence.

 

I'm impressed

 

At least you can get on. Hackers have cracked into our Playstation 3 Network and they have shut it down!!!

 

Our Sprintex kit has arrived and is on..............just got to find time to get the engine and box back in

 

ive been waiting for this for a while

 

How's it look so far Paul?

Get that motor back in, and see what it can do.

 

Here some of the latest pics

http://www.1320mini.co.uk/blog.aspx

We've got so many public holidays at the moment............which means family time, so progress will be slow

 

So Paul,

What is the spec of the motor you bolted it to? This could be the perfect blower for the drag strip. Are you going to use the 1320 ECU (which sounds great )?

Longboard

 

The engine we run at Santa Pod last month for The Fast Show, it run a 13.3@103 using 1st 2nd 3rd and makes in the 220s whp on the Mustang dyno.

The spec of the engine then was M45 with KMT 13.20% pulley,stock cylinder head, Newman Cam, Janspeed manifold, de-cat, Borla Cooper cat back, Dave F CAI, GP Intercooler, 1320 stand alone ECU

The only thing we've changed is, Sprintex Supercharger Kit, changed the FX700 to a Competition Clutch Super Single...........I'm hoping the driveshafts will last now

Everyting else is OEM

I'm hoping that it'll produce a lot more torque which will result in better 60fts and will improve our ET.

Jans 2.0 TVS1320 mph will be a very tough one to beat even at our weight, but you have to have a goal to go for.

 

Just so everybody knows, the 60mm pulley (OPTIONAL) will void SPRINTEX's waranty on the S/C. It does spin the charger past the opperating specs in the upper RPM's. I still am against waranty's so I am probably going to try both, if my S/C outlet temps are too high for my liking I will keep with the 70mm pulley that is standard with the kit.

So Paul, That is one serious looking ride! Is there any W/M to go with your giggle gas? And just for reference what NEWMAN cam are you runing, do they even still grind the 288 race cam?