Drivetrain ACT clutch & flywheel + Quaife install in progress...
ACT clutch & flywheel + Quaife install in progress...
My 05 Cooper S cabrio is at the shop (a MINI/BMW specialist) getting the ACT HDSS clutch with Streetlight flywheel and a Quaife LSD installed. I wanted to start a thread of my install as there are some significant bumps in the road already and I may need some help from the NAM community!
The Quaife was purchased used with 18K miles from a fellow NAM member and was reportedly in good working order.
Pictures of the ACT components are below. I made sure the part numbers matched the manufacturer's website part numbers. For those who are familiar/bought this kit, do these look like the correct pieces?
The shop says the clutch "doesn't work" and is "making noise". They are planning to take down the tranny again to check things out. I will be charged more labor, which is understandable, if the parts are incorrect.
I did purchase and provide new 9mm x1.25 x15mm pressure plate bolts, new guide tube, and new differential bearings. However, I believe we just left the old bearings on the Quaife. Using Redline MTL fluid.
Thanks in advance!
The Quaife was purchased used with 18K miles from a fellow NAM member and was reportedly in good working order.
Pictures of the ACT components are below. I made sure the part numbers matched the manufacturer's website part numbers. For those who are familiar/bought this kit, do these look like the correct pieces?
The shop says the clutch "doesn't work" and is "making noise". They are planning to take down the tranny again to check things out. I will be charged more labor, which is understandable, if the parts are incorrect.
I did purchase and provide new 9mm x1.25 x15mm pressure plate bolts, new guide tube, and new differential bearings. However, I believe we just left the old bearings on the Quaife. Using Redline MTL fluid.
Thanks in advance!
Those look just like what I installed. Are you sure they bleed the slave right? That would be the first thing to have them check again before they charge you for removing the trans again. Have them hold the slave piston all the way back while bleeding it. Good luck.
Also ask them about the Noise what is that from? Did they put the disc in with the sticker saying "this side out" out?
i
both suggestions sound like common sense but I've seen and heard worse things happening.
Also ask them about the Noise what is that from? Did they put the disc in with the sticker saying "this side out" out?
i
both suggestions sound like common sense but I've seen and heard worse things happening.
Last edited by CrazyIvan; Dec 8, 2010 at 05:47 PM.
If installed correctly this setup is quiet. It does not rattle like other lite weight flywheels. When they say it doesnt work, what do they mean exactly? ie it wont go in gear, or it is slipping. I pm'd you my number...give me a call.
CrazyIvan and Trickle X,
Thanks for the suggestions! I think we found the solution...
I finally spoke with ACT and they state that the clutch disk springs are meant to face toward the Streetlight flywheel as there is a recess in the flywheel to "accept" the prominent springs. If put in with the clutch disk springs facing away from the flywheel, there will be noise and the clutch pedal will hit a firm stop shortly after being depressed as the pressure plate diaphragm "fingers" will contact the back side of the clutch disk. (Apparently the clutch disk springs face away from the flywheel in MOST vehicles.)
The installer states that there were stickers on the clutch which labelled, incorrectly, the "flywheel side" and thus he put it in with the clutch disk springs facing away from the flywheel.
It's going back together and hopefully this is the solution...
I'm not yet sure if he plans to charge me for taking the tranny back out to flip the clutch disk. To me it seems that the parts are correct and it was an installation issue.
Was it ClutchMasters that had sprung disks that could go in facing either way?
Thanks for the suggestions! I think we found the solution...
I finally spoke with ACT and they state that the clutch disk springs are meant to face toward the Streetlight flywheel as there is a recess in the flywheel to "accept" the prominent springs. If put in with the clutch disk springs facing away from the flywheel, there will be noise and the clutch pedal will hit a firm stop shortly after being depressed as the pressure plate diaphragm "fingers" will contact the back side of the clutch disk. (Apparently the clutch disk springs face away from the flywheel in MOST vehicles.)
The installer states that there were stickers on the clutch which labelled, incorrectly, the "flywheel side" and thus he put it in with the clutch disk springs facing away from the flywheel.
It's going back together and hopefully this is the solution...
I'm not yet sure if he plans to charge me for taking the tranny back out to flip the clutch disk. To me it seems that the parts are correct and it was an installation issue.
Was it ClutchMasters that had sprung disks that could go in facing either way?
install complete
Picked up my MINI tonight. Yes, I had to pay $450 more for the re-removal and install of the tranny to flip the clutch disk. The shop owner took some pictures of the clutch disk and there is the sticker on the wrong side which indicates to install the flatter side toward the flywheel. I'm getting copies of the pictures. Also, you can see from the shrink wrapped pictures above there is no sticker on the clutch spring side stating to face that surface to the flywheel.
I'm going to contact ACT to see what they have to say about this costly (for me) error.
First impressions: clutch pedal pressure is very light currently, much lighter than stock. This was not expected and I'm not sure if I should expect it to change. There is NO CHATTER or other "noises" at all. (In fact, my stock tranny had a mild rattle at idle in neutral and would become silent when the clutch pedal was depressed.) Engagement is quick, but was easily managed so far. RPM's drop a little faster between shifts.
I'll update after the break-in period.
Boadwayline, PM sent
I'm going to contact ACT to see what they have to say about this costly (for me) error.
First impressions: clutch pedal pressure is very light currently, much lighter than stock. This was not expected and I'm not sure if I should expect it to change. There is NO CHATTER or other "noises" at all. (In fact, my stock tranny had a mild rattle at idle in neutral and would become silent when the clutch pedal was depressed.) Engagement is quick, but was easily managed so far. RPM's drop a little faster between shifts.
I'll update after the break-in period.
Boadwayline, PM sent
Trending Topics
Update: about 2000 miles of 'normal' driving complete. Clutch pedal effort firmed up quite a bit and is equivalent to stock. Engagement is mildly quicker vs stock. This clutch is completely street/traffic friendly. Absolutely no clutch chatter! RPMs drop a little faster between shifts vs stock. I'm very happy so far with this combo.
And, ACT reimbursed me for the additional labor!
I'll test things more in a couple of weeks at autocross!
And, ACT reimbursed me for the additional labor!
I'll test things more in a couple of weeks at autocross!
Last edited by O.C.abrio; Jan 21, 2011 at 05:49 PM.
I just wanted to thank you for this thread. I was told by a shop that the ACT clutch would work with the stock flywheel, that is not the case. So I purchased the SCT Streetlight flywheel and was about to install it like your shop did, but it didn't look right. I read this and flipped the clutch plate around it is works like a champ. Now I just need to figure out why I have low oil pressure.
Thanks again,
Bryan
Thanks again,
Bryan
you are welcome
I just wanted to thank you for this thread. I was told by a shop that the ACT clutch would work with the stock flywheel, that is not the case. So I purchased the SCT Streetlight flywheel and was about to install it like your shop did, but it didn't look right. I read this and flipped the clutch plate around it is works like a champ. Now I just need to figure out why I have low oil pressure.
Thanks again,
Bryan
Thanks again,
Bryan
Were you experiencing a knocking noise coming from your engine? I was, and was told I have to replace my flywheel and throw out b. They also recommended I replace my clutch while I was at it.
I got quoted from the dealer and they said $2300 for everything. I was told that the "noise" will go away for about 10-12k miles and then eventually come back. I guess there is no solution to this problem.
They also said depending on the flywheel I get the noise will no longer come from the engine but from the gear box so the "noise" will still be there, but will be coming from the gear box. Dont know what to do.
I got quoted from the dealer and they said $2300 for everything. I was told that the "noise" will go away for about 10-12k miles and then eventually come back. I guess there is no solution to this problem.
They also said depending on the flywheel I get the noise will no longer come from the engine but from the gear box so the "noise" will still be there, but will be coming from the gear box. Dont know what to do.
Good to know. I bought a SPEC Stage I clutch and the ACT steel flywheel about 1 1/2 years ago. Were for my old '02 MCS until I wrecked it, so it's still on the shelf. One thing I know is to make sure the clutch is sprung if using a non-dual-mass flywheel.
Mislabelings can possibly happen. We're only human. I'm sure ACT will work with you on it. Also helps you went to a BMW/MINI shop.
Mislabelings can possibly happen. We're only human. I'm sure ACT will work with you on it. Also helps you went to a BMW/MINI shop.
Were you experiencing a knocking noise coming from your engine? I was, and was told I have to replace my flywheel and throw out b. They also recommended I replace my clutch while I was at it.
I got quoted from the dealer and they said $2300 for everything. I was told that the "noise" will go away for about 10-12k miles and then eventually come back. I guess there is no solution to this problem.
They also said depending on the flywheel I get the noise will no longer come from the engine but from the gear box so the "noise" will still be there, but will be coming from the gear box. Dont know what to do.
I got quoted from the dealer and they said $2300 for everything. I was told that the "noise" will go away for about 10-12k miles and then eventually come back. I guess there is no solution to this problem.
They also said depending on the flywheel I get the noise will no longer come from the engine but from the gear box so the "noise" will still be there, but will be coming from the gear box. Dont know what to do.

Some lightweight flywheels can contribute to the gearbox "chatter".
If you plan to open up the tranny, I agree you may as well replace all those parts. Consider aftermarket upgrades and an independent MINI shop.
Yes, some lightweight flywheels contribute to chatter. One of our local club members who has done tons of MINI mods and tracks his informed me the best results are with those that are roughly half the weight of the stock one, which is 27 lbs. The ACT steel flywheel is 13.8 lbs., and that's why I picked it.
help with clutch problems
i had installed a masterclutch fx300 with 11lb aluminium flywheel. it made noise when clutch was released outtagear from the start. i was told by mechanic this was common welli beg to differ as now 2000miles later i have no clutch mini wont go in gear at all. i also have antifreeze in oil. im in the process of removing trans and head. i em looking for the oem clutch alignment tool and the oem bracket to hold motor up when removing trans. ive tried the dealer and they want me to give them the part #!!! how messed upis that? can anyone help me on this????
i had installed a masterclutch fx300 with 11lb aluminium flywheel. it made noise when clutch was released outtagear from the start. i was told by mechanic this was common welli beg to differ as now 2000miles later i have no clutch mini wont go in gear at all. i also have antifreeze in oil. im in the process of removing trans and head. i em looking for the oem clutch alignment tool and the oem bracket to hold motor up when removing trans. ive tried the dealer and they want me to give them the part #!!! how messed upis that? can anyone help me on this????

Bryan
I wouldn't count on getting that tool easily. none of the mini dealers knew what i was talking about even after I gave them the part number. And when I did find a place for it online it was around 200 for the clutch tool. I used a universal metirc tool from lesile.
I know this is real old now, but you never did post how the clutch held up in Autcross...
Update: about 2000 miles of 'normal' driving complete. Clutch pedal effort firmed up quite a bit and is equivalent to stock. Engagement is mildly quicker vs stock. This clutch is completely street/traffic friendly. Absolutely no clutch chatter! RPMs drop a little faster between shifts vs stock. I'm very happy so far with this combo.
And, ACT reimbursed me for the additional labor!
I'll test things more in a couple of weeks at autocross!
And, ACT reimbursed me for the additional labor!
I'll test things more in a couple of weeks at autocross!
update
30K miles and 2 years on the ACT clutch/flywheel combo:
I haven't seen much discussion on this ACT set-up recently, but I recommend it as a stop-and-go traffic friendly and occasional autocross use clutch. I have no track days currently and do not drag race (although I have accidentally done a few burnout starts in autocross).
My car is daily driven and I seem to be doing a handful of autocross events each year with the local BMW Car Club of America chapter. The autocross events I've done often require shifting into 3rd gear on some sections to give you an idea on car speed/engine RPM.
My instructor (who drives a highly modified MINI) noted that the friction/engagement point of my clutch pedal is a little higher than stock. I personally really didn't notice the difference vs stock in pedal engagement height. I drove with the stock clutch for about 30K miles before replacing.
Clutch pedal effort is just like stock. Clutch engagement may be a just a little more brisk vs stock. RPMs drop a little faster when off throttle. I have a stock exhaust (ie quiet) and notice a mild gear rattle/chatter when off throttle in low gear at speeds < 20 mph. I did notice this early on. I'm using Redline MTL.
Oh...and no signs of clutch slipping so far.
I haven't seen much discussion on this ACT set-up recently, but I recommend it as a stop-and-go traffic friendly and occasional autocross use clutch. I have no track days currently and do not drag race (although I have accidentally done a few burnout starts in autocross).
My car is daily driven and I seem to be doing a handful of autocross events each year with the local BMW Car Club of America chapter. The autocross events I've done often require shifting into 3rd gear on some sections to give you an idea on car speed/engine RPM.
My instructor (who drives a highly modified MINI) noted that the friction/engagement point of my clutch pedal is a little higher than stock. I personally really didn't notice the difference vs stock in pedal engagement height. I drove with the stock clutch for about 30K miles before replacing.
Clutch pedal effort is just like stock. Clutch engagement may be a just a little more brisk vs stock. RPMs drop a little faster when off throttle. I have a stock exhaust (ie quiet) and notice a mild gear rattle/chatter when off throttle in low gear at speeds < 20 mph. I did notice this early on. I'm using Redline MTL.
Oh...and no signs of clutch slipping so far.
With all that, and a no chatter flywheel, I am sold. I am at 95,500 miles on my 04 MCS, and it is modded pretty good if you look at my siggy, so I think it is way past due for this setup. Plus after a couple parades recently and an AutoCross event at MITM, my stock clutch is starting to go I think.
I know this thread is a little aged but I was wondering how you like the quaife lsd in autox and daily driving? I just bought a quaife, ACT clutch and flywheel for my 06 MCS, but haven't had the chance to install it yet.
I've had an ACT XTSS clutch and flywheel for 70k now. Stock died at the track under 30k miles. It is still firm even now. I have chatter which I chalked up to the flywheel, but it sounds like I might have the same issue as above.
I have an OS Giken LSD. While I love what it can do on the track, this MINI was forced into became a DD at 50k, and plates thunking around parking lots gets interesting looks. It usually has to be explained to passengers. These days it only gets stretched out on rainy days where I can take corners at speed and scare people in the right seat.
I have an OS Giken LSD. While I love what it can do on the track, this MINI was forced into became a DD at 50k, and plates thunking around parking lots gets interesting looks. It usually has to be explained to passengers. These days it only gets stretched out on rainy days where I can take corners at speed and scare people in the right seat.
I've had an ACT XTSS clutch and flywheel for 70k now. Stock died at the track under 30k miles. It is still firm even now. I have chatter which I chalked up to the flywheel, but it sounds like I might have the same issue as above.
I have an OS Giken LSD. While I love what it can do on the track, this MINI was forced into became a DD at 50k, and plates thunking around parking lots gets interesting looks. It usually has to be explained to passengers. These days it only gets stretched out on rainy days where I can take corners at speed and scare people in the right seat.
I have an OS Giken LSD. While I love what it can do on the track, this MINI was forced into became a DD at 50k, and plates thunking around parking lots gets interesting looks. It usually has to be explained to passengers. These days it only gets stretched out on rainy days where I can take corners at speed and scare people in the right seat.
About 40K miles now. The Quaife is imperceptible in my daily commute. In autocross, it helps with the inside wheel spin I had prior to install...and better traction usually means quicker times. I am very happy with the combo!


