So the left side drive axle is a making a noise consistent with what I believe to be a bad axle. The car has 115k+ miles on it, so it is to be expected. An OEM axle will run me about $400.

However, I heard about Drive Shaft Shop (www.driveshaftshop.com) and saw that they have axles available for Mini's. They have 2 models, a stock replacement, and a heavy-duty racing type. Anyone have any experience with the stock replacement type? I can buy both sides for the price of 1 OEM. I think what's holding me back is the fact that it comes with no warranty, whereas the OEM comes with 2 years of warranty.

Any advice or experience is appreciated!

 

Call them up and ask if they will provide any type of warranty. A lot of times it may not be written, but you get one.

And make sure if they tell you that it has one, you have it in writing.

 

First, I just installed a set of Driveshaft Shop axles, Level 0. The axles are cosmetically of a very good quality, and they are very solid. The fit was perfect and I am not concerned that they will last 100k miles as the originals. I couldn't find OEM axles for less than $500 and I needed both. So finding the Driveshaft Shop axles at ultrarev.com at a discount was very cost effective solution.

The next level was still less expensive than OEM, but with a stock engine I was pretty certain that it would have been overkill for my application.

Other aftermarket solutions have lifetime warranties but it seems that consensus is that the warranty means a lifetime of replacing them.

Secondly, after I got everything back together and I took a test drive, the original problem, a clicking while turning, that drove me to buy the axles was still there. So, now I am going to replace the bearings, which should be much easier job than the axles to begin with.

So, my suggestion is to make sure that the axles are bad before going down that path. The driver's side axle is much easier to replace than the passenger side because of the intermediate shaft and bearing. If you want some hints, I will be happy to post them form my experience a couple of weekends ago.

Regards, Ricardo

 

We just installed a set of their race axles in a customers car, VERY beefy! Steve as a set of their OEM style on order so haven't seen them yet. It's a good idea to replace the bearing in the intermediate shaft when you replace the right side. BTW, their race axle set does not come with the intermediate shaft, not sure about the OEM set? Concerning the clicking noise, most likely it is the wheel bearing. Just make sure you torque it to spec, we have seen cars come in and have to use a 4 foot bar to get the nut loose

 

The Level 0 ("OE style") does come with an intermediate shaft and bearing. The axles also come with new axle nuts, so they really are a full kit.

 

Is there a method I can use to determine which of the 2 components (axle or wheel bearing) needs to be replaced? What I was doing before was putting the front end on jack stands, taking the wheel, caliper, rotor, and dust shield off, and then with a cordless drill and socket I spun the wheel bearing/axle and listened for the noise and tried to track down where it was coming from. I couldn't do this very well with the motor running because it drowned out the sound. I guess I could remove the axle completely and try that method again and see if the noise is still there.

By the way, ultrarev seems to have higher/inconsistent pricing on the axles. If you don't mind sharing how much you spent, I'd be interested.

Any hints and tips are welcome!

 

I haven't yet been able to figure out how to definitively determine the difference between the two issues. But I am working on it. After I replaced the axles, I have the exact same noise, so I am assuming it wasn't the axles.

From my research, typically, the axle problems stem from ripped boots that allow water in and for the grease to come out. That is the obvious sign. The CV joints will then click in a straight line, or while turning. My problem only manifested itself while turning.

Hub/bearings problems typically manifest themselves as a grinding noise at all times and speeds. Holding the wheel at 9-3 position and shaking and then 12-6 position and shaking should produce a wobble. My problem was a clicking noise only on sharp turns, and I didn't have a wheel wobble. So I figured it was a CV joint.

After I purchased the axles, a few months later someone else mentioned their problem was resolved by changing the bearings. So, I am now going to do that. From my discussions, with techs and racers, we are now supposing that the bearing race is cracked and only when sufficient force is applied to open the crack slightly (as when turning) will the bearings click as they cross the crack. I don't know how to test for this without removing the bearing, and I am not sure how to see it once I remove it since it is a closed bearing/hub assembly. Since I am going to replace the bearings anyhow, I will wait until they arrive to check this out.

There are youtube videos that will help you check out the sounds that I mentioned above.

On the Ultrarev.com site today I saw the Level 0 axles for $180/per side. I believe I paid about $20 less/side. I believe retail is about $500 per pair or $250/per side. Shipping was less than $20 (it was drop shipped from the driveshaft shop location) and I paid NJ tax.

IIRC, the Level 2.9 spec is $900 retail per pair.

 

Please update us on your thoughts concerning the OEM style. I am no expert, but they seemed very good in comparison to the original axles they replaced, but I would appreciate your thoughts on them.

Thanks

 

FYI, I replaced the bearings and the noise is still there. Don't really know what it can be at this stage.

 

Do you have a aftermarket LSD on your car?

 

No, stock 2002 MCS 6-speed Getrag w/o LSD. If I have to get in there, LSD will be on the to do list.

 

If you get to the point of working on the tranny you may want to think of a 05 or a 06 tranny, better gearing. I'm in the same boat as you, 03, but have been looking for a used one, they go for around $1200-1500 bucks

 

1) You can get axles from several places for around $120 each, i have a source to where i can get both for $150.

2) Going from the 02-04 tranny to the 05-06 will take away your cruise control, just an FYI.

 

Axles of OEM quality?

FCPGroton sells axles for $100 each but seem to last for only a couple thousand miles. Definitely not my idea of a quality product.

 

I can attest to that...I just replaced mine with those in june and 1500 kms later, replaced it with a used OEM one. Maybe others had a good experience but I didn't.

 

For those that have installed axles from DriveShaftShop what is your opinion? Are They any good? I am looking for suitable replacements on my R50. I keep reading negative experiences with the budget reman'd and even new from parts stores, and want a quality alternative.

 

I have the Driveshaft Shop level 2.9 racing axle on my driver's side and it is very beefy and high quality. I'm not sure about the R50, but on my R53 the inner cv boot clamp was rubbing on a sensor on the control arm (auto leveling headlights?), but was corrected by using a low profile boot and clamp. Frank was very helpful and I highly recommend them for replacement axles!

 

I got my axels off of e-bay....... They were like 100 each new with a full warranty. I have had them on for about 20k miles of HARD driving. Like 8 laps of the nurburgring, and back road rippin in germany with 0 issues. A good idea is to get a gas torch(the onces with the canister) at home depot and use that to head up the guide bearing on the passenger side. Take the bearing guide bracket completely off with the axel, heat it up, and use a hammer to massage it off. All in all it was not difficult. I had more problems with the driver side getting it seated properly without ripping apart the entire suspension. I was able to drop the ball joint, pop off the hub/suspension and move it around enough to get it installed. Hope it works out for ya.

 

Flip, which seller did you buy it from and what brand was it? I see 3 sellers selling brands AUP, DSS and DTA.

 

I have had the driveshaftshop axles, both sides, on my 15%, RMW tune 04 S for about 30k miles now.
The Mini has 98k miles on it.
A couple of track days and every chance I get hard accelerations.

Not a single problem.

 

dss

 

Does dss=drive shaft shop?

 

Yes DSS is short for Drive Shaft Shop

 

Good to see an alternative axle to the OEM.
So the Level 0 is just as good if not better, than the OEM axles right?
I might have to order one as mine is on the way out..

 

where'd you buy or what rebuild boot kit fits the thicker 500whp axles? One of my boots has a hole and the OEM boots will definitely not fit as they aren't big enough. I am pretty desperate to find a replacement without buying the axles again. This is for my r53s of course