I have $800.00 I want to spend. Any word on the MCS automatic version?

: )

 

Actually... PERFECT!

With my first two minis (first generations) I didn't like the pop and burble. It was better on my '08 and now with this tune on the JCW, it's PERFECT.

It sounds great... didn't see that coming.

Mark

 

I just want the pop and burble in my US R56 already! I'm tempted..

 

Ditto! (For the wife's car...not mine in the sig obviously :-) )

 

Mark, you must have received the tune. How is it? Everybody is waiting for your unbiased opinion Can you post a sound clip of the pop and burble?

Thanks, Larry

 

He has a thread here: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...pressions.html

 

Thanks....

 

I've previously posted a couple of sound clips of the pop and burble on my MCSa. You need to turn your speakers up in order to hear it. For my MINI the best time it can be heard is between 3-4k RPMs when letting up on the throttle.

Here are directions to get to the post. It is post #208 on that page.

 

I might be interested in the Alta tune, but not sure I understand the difference between each "Stage x" for the 2008-2010 MCS manual. What do the various stages mean/include? Is it a tune version or does it pertain to what mods are on the MINI?

 

don't worry, you have enough hardware to get a wicked level of tune.

 

Since Jeff is encouraging questions I have one regarding operating water temps. My 09 Clubbie S water temps run to about 230F (IMHO does not do much for the projected longevity of the motor) Would any of your tunes do anything to help reduce such high operating temps? I know there is a thermostat involved but I'm not sure how much the ECU actually has to do with the water temps.

My current thoughts are to get the ALTA FMIC first and then the AP - can't afford both at the same time.

Thanks
Dennis

 

The ECU tries to target 2 different temperature levels, depending on the engine load. The target temperature under light load (i.e. normal street driving) is 221F. This is done to keep emissions lower. The second temperature target for heavy load is 185F. You can trigger the second temperature level by either driving the car very hard (like on the track or running from the police ) or you can hit the Max AC button. This engages the high speed fan as well as telling the ECU to target the cooler temp. I attached a doc that has a more detailed explanation if you are so inclined.

I for one would not start to mess with the target temperature of the engine. I agree that the cars run quite warm, but this is by design.

 

btwdriver

I have used the max AC to get the temps down when the gauge starts to head North of 235F - the temp falls like it went over a cliff - just like to stop it at about 210

Have read and printed the Mini Coolant System file

Many thanks
Dennis

 

Poking around the Alta site some more, I found an answer for the MCSm:
Stage 1 = Stock MCS; can be tweaked for catbacks, CAI, FMIC, boost tubes, and octane
Stage 2 = MCS with Turboback; can be tweaked for FMIC, CAI, boost tubes and octane
Stage 3 = MCS with Turboback and Intercooler upgrade; can be tweaked for CAI, boost tubes and octane

 

The tune for the automatics is still a work in progress. It runs and drives great but they are still working out a kink in the flash process. Currently when flashing an automatic it sets a couple of fault codes or if you select reset ECU in the troubleshooting section it will also set these same codes. The AP isn't able to read or clear them at the moment. To clear them I need to hook up my ScanGaugeII. Once cleared, all is well.

These same codes are set with the Dimsport MyGenius tool so it isn't something specific to the AP device. These are only set with an automatic transmission.

ALTA and COBB are working on coming up with a solution for this. If/When they make it so the AP could read and clear the codes or if they can make it so the codes get cleared when reseting the ECU it would be perfect.

 

That's what I'm hoping for. I just figured if I keep mentioning it, some how magically it will happen quicker!

 

This is my conundrum. A tune needs to be done with a dyno. That is why its called a "tune." I have a JCW with many mods. See my signature. So Alta providing a canned tune does not interest me.

Those with 09+ factory JCWs are not getting the amazing results with a RMW tune or this new Alta tune because our cars are already tuned to some degree and have engine improvements over those with a Cooper S.

So it not really worth it for me to drop another $800 to get a few more pounds of boot/horse power or torque.

I have put enough time and money into my car. I am going to drive it and enjoy it.

All you cooper guys out there that are stock. I would definitely spend the money on this Alta tune/tool. You are getting a huge bang for your buck.

-Steve

 

Ditto, again :-)

 

That doesn't make sense... not saying it isn't working for you, it just shouldn't....

If you turn the heat on, you will cool the engine down. The hot antifreeze now has to run through the lines into the heater core and effectively is the same as having a larger radiator for lack of a better description.

Turning on the AC typically makes heat flow through the radiator. You have an extra load on the engine (compressor).

Not to mention that an AC unit works by pulling heat OUT of the system... the heat has to go somewhere (the condensor) which sits typically less than an inch away from the radiator and therefore makes the radiator have hot air coming across it.

The only way I can see this working is if when you turn on the AC, the condensor fan comes on thus creating a double fan effect again blowing air through the radiator but now more of it.

Typically I've had cars that overheated when I turned on the AC... perhaps my system was almost overtaxed anyway and the little extra was just too much.

Hmmmmm......


Mark

 

I'm an old school turn up the boost controller for more power kinda guy (e.g. in my 300ZX). Low boost setting and high boost setting. Would love to be able to do this in the MINI? Maybe via the sport button?

So I'm getting peak boost of 14.5 lbs right now on my '08 MCSa with the JCW stage 1 tuning kit and a few other mods. When the automatic tunes are done, what kinda boost am I looking at? It's a bang for the buck question I guess. If I can get 8-10 more lbs then it's worth it to me.

 

If you cooling system is working at maximum capacity I would agree. However, it is not. The thermostat is electronically controlled, not mechanical. When the Max AC is turned on, the fan kicks into high speed mode (this helps with the cooling) and the ECU tells the thermostat to target a cooler temp. This causes the electronics in the thermostat to open up more flow, much like a mechanical thermostat would do when it hits it's target temp. Between these two things, the net effect is the drop in coolant temp.

Check your temp via a scan gauge or actual temp gauge next time you are on the track. You will notice that by the time you get 1/4 of the way around your out lap that the temp has dropped down to around 185 or so. Even in Texas, where I live, the ECU will be able to maintain within 10-20 degrees of the target temp. After your session is finished and you decrease the load on the engine, you will see coolant temps into the 220-230's by the time you are back in your paddock spot.

As an aside, because I know you track your car, I would HIGHLY recommend an actual temp gauge in the car. The engines in these cars are extremely sensitive to being overheated. It only takes once to do permanent damage to either the head or block. Due to a cracked downpipe on my car, I experienced overheating problems enough to cause head lift under high boost. During all of these episodes, my ECU never once complained that it was "too" hot. So, there was damage done and the ECU was "happy" the whole time. You have to be very careful.

 

Jose. I just received mine today. If you want I can get the maps for the JCW and let you use my tool to see if you like it.

 

With an upgraded FMIC the tune will you give 20 PSI boost. I'm not sure how much it gets turned up to without a FMIC. I've heard the FMIC is key to being able to crank the boost up as the stock IC is small.

Doh! I just saw the FMIC in your sig. You'll get 20 PSI boost.

 

Hey, Chris. I don't actually have a JCW, but thanks. Just be sure to post how you like your tune.

 

Actually, as much as I hate seeing gauges in the car, that is the only gauge I'm interested in. I'll start looking to see if they make a pillar pod housing.

Thanks,

Mark