Drivetrain Here is why you should clean your MINI with Seafoam.
5th Gear
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,100
Likes: 13
From: Inman, SC
worked for me. i had a super rough idle. if i stepped on my gas after cold crank it would actually go down in rpm's and then go up
did this today, didnt get huge clouds, but i got some black smoke definitely and its running a lot smoother now.
oh, and yes advance has it (or at least the store i work at has it)
did this today, didnt get huge clouds, but i got some black smoke definitely and its running a lot smoother now.
oh, and yes advance has it (or at least the store i work at has it)
[FONT=Georgia, sans-serif]Right from the horse http://www.seafoamsales.com/gasoline-engine-faqs.html of ......
The most frequently asked question about using Sea Foam is as follows: “After using Sea Foam in my oil, fuel, or through the vacuum line (to clean carbon from the combustion chamber) do I need to change my oil?” The short answer is: No you don’t have to change your oil after using Sea Foam in any application.
When using Sea Foam in your fuel or through the vacuum line for carbon cleaning your oil does not need to be changed. Using Sea Foam in your oil, at 1 ½ ounces per quart, is a safe way to clean a crankcase, free up rings or free up sticky lifters as you drive. Sea Foam is not a chemical engine flush and therefore, it will not damage internal engine components or plug the oil pick up screen. Sea Foam is a pure petroleum blend with no chemical additives and is safe for long term cleaning or short term pre-service cleaning.
Sea Foam is a blend of highly refined additive oils and is compatible with all motor oils including synthetics. It is safe for all internal engine components and will not affect any seals, gaskets or o-rings. Sea Foam cleans oil deposits and varnish in your crankcase by safely/slowly re liquefying the old oil residue so contaminants may flow and be filtered. The longer Sea Foam is in your oil the cleaner your crankcase will become. When adding Sea Foam to clean oil, for long term maintenance cleaning, you must check your oil periodically for color and clarity, when your oil looks dirty change it. Because you added cleaning oil (Sea Foam) to your oil you may have to change oil before the expected service interval.
When adding Sea Foam to dirty oil before an oil change, for best results use 1 ½ ounces per quart of oil at least 100 miles before oil is changed.
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The most frequently asked question about using Sea Foam is as follows: “After using Sea Foam in my oil, fuel, or through the vacuum line (to clean carbon from the combustion chamber) do I need to change my oil?” The short answer is: No you don’t have to change your oil after using Sea Foam in any application.
When using Sea Foam in your fuel or through the vacuum line for carbon cleaning your oil does not need to be changed. Using Sea Foam in your oil, at 1 ½ ounces per quart, is a safe way to clean a crankcase, free up rings or free up sticky lifters as you drive. Sea Foam is not a chemical engine flush and therefore, it will not damage internal engine components or plug the oil pick up screen. Sea Foam is a pure petroleum blend with no chemical additives and is safe for long term cleaning or short term pre-service cleaning.
Sea Foam is a blend of highly refined additive oils and is compatible with all motor oils including synthetics. It is safe for all internal engine components and will not affect any seals, gaskets or o-rings. Sea Foam cleans oil deposits and varnish in your crankcase by safely/slowly re liquefying the old oil residue so contaminants may flow and be filtered. The longer Sea Foam is in your oil the cleaner your crankcase will become. When adding Sea Foam to clean oil, for long term maintenance cleaning, you must check your oil periodically for color and clarity, when your oil looks dirty change it. Because you added cleaning oil (Sea Foam) to your oil you may have to change oil before the expected service interval.
When adding Sea Foam to dirty oil before an oil change, for best results use 1 ½ ounces per quart of oil at least 100 miles before oil is changed.
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. What person with any common knowledge of how an engine works would make such a silly assumption?!
I think it comes from the liquid can of seafoam and the instructions on it...the split the can 3 ways, with 1/3 in the gas, 1/3 in the oil, and 1/3 in the intake, then change the oil...I am in agreement though, if you put it in your gas or intake, then no oil change is needed. But it us printed on the can of liquid seafoam...so it is easy to combine them accidently, especially when typing in a hurry!!
The seafoam instructions also say....
http://www.seafoamsales.com/how-to-u...treatment.html
It's not that people are lakcing common knowledge, it's that people are doing the process that's appropriate for their desired result, BS.
And adding Seafoam to the oil will make the oil get dirty faster, requiring an oil change sooner that the original planned interval.
http://www.seafoamsales.com/how-to-u...treatment.html
To clean oil rings and lifters, add 1½ oz. Sea Foam to each quart of oil. Sea Foam will slowly re-liquefy the old oil varnish residue that builds up on lifters and rings and prevents them from functioning normally. This process can be done as part of a pre service cleaning by adding the Sea Foam to the oil at least 30 miles before the next oil change interval. OR it can be done as a preventative maintenance process without changing the oil. You can leave Sea Foam in the oil indefinitely as long as the oil is clean. The addition of a high-detergent oil like Sea Foam may cause the oil to become dirty faster than normal as buildup oil residue and contamination are cleaned. Check the oil at regular intervals and when it gets dirty, change it.
And adding Seafoam to the oil will make the oil get dirty faster, requiring an oil change sooner that the original planned interval.
3rd Gear
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 199
Likes: 0
From: Terryville, CT
If you put it in the gas tank you will not get any smoke, it's cleaning the injectors and that's all. you are pretty much diluting the seafoam.
you will get nasty smoke when doing the PCV method tho.
you will get nasty smoke when doing the PCV method tho.
3rd Gear
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 232
Likes: 0
Off topic question, but what is your exhaust? Love the sound.
You mean stock header....downpipes are on Turbo cars!
Does sound good! Good to hear the "treatment" worked well...
Good luck on scoring rear tail lights to replace the broken ones....
I'd check WayMotorWorks by phone...he parts out wrecks, and has some parts pretty cheap not on his website that might be what you need.
Does sound good! Good to hear the "treatment" worked well...
Good luck on scoring rear tail lights to replace the broken ones....
I'd check WayMotorWorks by phone...he parts out wrecks, and has some parts pretty cheap not on his website that might be what you need.
okay... so if i wanna run this through the PCV hose. do i keep the car running? i'm confused, and i really need this done. (isn't ideling very well at stop signs, especially with the A/C on. lol.) anyone have DETAILED, step by step directions i could follow? :[
alright, so then when your pouring, or spaying this in.. do you keep the tube pinched at the lower end of it to let the fluid just sit in the tube? or do you just release pinching once the fluid is starting to get poured or sprayed? and while you doing whatever, is the other person in the car reving or anything, or just in there incase it stalls?
3rd Gear
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 189
Likes: 0
From: Worcester, MA
Care to help a friend? :D
Just pour it in slow....or spray it as it comes out....It CAN be done alone, but a helper...er...helps!
If you pinch off the hose a bit, you will be less likely to get a code....the computer will read a HUGE vac leak with the PCV hose off.....
If you pinch off the hose a bit, you will be less likely to get a code....the computer will read a HUGE vac leak with the PCV hose off.....
Disconnect the battery and reconnect it and see if that resets the code. It's probably for a vacuum leak and if your PCV hose is connected back to the engine the code should go away (?)
3rd Gear
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 232
Likes: 0
I think it comes from the liquid can of seafoam and the instructions on it...the split the can 3 ways, with 1/3 in the gas, 1/3 in the oil, and 1/3 in the intake, then change the oil...I am in agreement though, if you put it in your gas or intake, then no oil change is needed. But it us printed on the can of liquid seafoam...so it is easy to combine them accidently, especially when typing in a hurry!!
This process (adding Seafoam to oil) can be done as part of a pre service cleaning by adding the Sea Foam to the oil at least 30 miles before the next oil change interval.
You can leave Sea Foam in the oil indefinitely as long as the oil is clean. The addition of a high-detergent oil like Sea Foam may cause the oil to become dirty faster than normal as buildup oil residue and contamination are cleaned.
Check the oil at regular intervals and when it gets dirty, change it.
You can leave Sea Foam in the oil indefinitely as long as the oil is clean. The addition of a high-detergent oil like Sea Foam may cause the oil to become dirty faster than normal as buildup oil residue and contamination are cleaned.
Check the oil at regular intervals and when it gets dirty, change it.
1st Gear
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
I purchased the spray can yesterday.
removed the hose from the PCV valve while it was at idle.
no problem with trying to die.
I sprayed almost a half a can into the rubber hose, without pinching it.
it never once even bogged down,
I let it sit about 30 minutes with the engine off, and then did the high RPM + drive around thing. (no smoke ever)
did I do something wrong? or was that 2000 miles I drove last week using 91 to 93 octane gas enough to clean it out?
removed the hose from the PCV valve while it was at idle.
no problem with trying to die.
I sprayed almost a half a can into the rubber hose, without pinching it.
it never once even bogged down,
I let it sit about 30 minutes with the engine off, and then did the high RPM + drive around thing. (no smoke ever)
did I do something wrong? or was that 2000 miles I drove last week using 91 to 93 octane gas enough to clean it out?
This is pretty normal to hear from the MINI community.