Drivetrain Detroit Tuned Tensioner Stop install in less than 20 minutes!!
Detroit Tuned Tensioner Stop install in less than 20 minutes!!
I hope someone can use this as help on doing an install for one of these.
A pre-warning. This technique may not work if you have large forearms or hands. I am 5'10 165 if that gives you an idea of how I can do the install this way. But I can imagine someone slightly larger could still successfully do this technique. If not, have a friend help you. I found this way to be very simple and easy for most beginner mechanics to use.
Tools:
R53 Belt Tensioner Tool
Small Screwdriver
Hand Pliers
Medium Flathead Screwdriver
13mm wrench with ratcheting box end
Socket Wrench with 13mm socket
Loc-Tite
Start by disconnecting the plastic regulator next to the grounding strap on the passenger side of the car. This will include 2-vacuum clips (One on the bottom as well as one on the top) that you can remove by pressing the tabs and simply pulling off. Then remove the electrical connection by lifting the tab and pulling. You can now take the Hand Pliers and compress the metal tab holding the regulator on until it is flattened. Remove the regulator by sliding it off to the left. Set aside.
Remove the two 13mm bolts holding the Ground Strap on. With the upper bolt, hold your finger underneath it so the bolt doesn't fall off and get lost. Set aside.
You will now have full access to de-tension the belt. Take Tensioner Tool and de-tension the tensioner and insert Small Screwdriver in second hole of the tensioner. Set aside Tensioner Tool.
This is where things get creative. Locate the bolt head on the tensioner "shock absorber." With your right hand, place 13mm wrench with ratchet end near the bolt (don't worry about getting it on the head yet). Then take your left hand and snake it under the passenger side motor mount and you should be able to help the wrench onto the bolt. It may take a few tries. While holding the box-end of the wrench with your left hand, loosen the bolt with your right hand. If you are doing it correctly, you should now be hugging your motor and your face is now resting on the intercooler
Remove bolt and apply Blue Loc-Tite. Replace bolt with Tensioner Stop. This can only be done with your left hand in the same process as when you helped the wrench before. You should be able to tighten the bolt with your left hand until you will need the wrench to tighten further. Let the Tensioner Stop hang completely vertical (you will see why).
Using the same technique as the removal, tighten bolt with the wrench. As you tighten it all the way, the Tensioner Stop should now be angled towards the rear of the car. This is the proper angle that it needs to be to function properly. (this is why you left the Tensioner Stop hang vertical)
The rear bolt on the tensioner is MUCH easier to remove. Look right above your oil filter, see that bolt on the Tensioner Shock? This is the one you remove. Using same wrench, let the handle point towards the ground and place the box-end on the bolt (If you have the handle upright, you will risk crushing the vacuum lines on the firewall). Remove bolt, apply Blue Loc-Tite, replace bolt through other end of the Tensioner Stop. Tighten bolt. You're almost done!
With the Tensioner Tool, de-tension the tensioner and remove small screwdriver.
Slide plastic regulator back on mount. With the Medium Flathead Screwdriver pry the metal tab you previously flattened with the pliers so the regulator is now locked into place. Replace upper and lower vacuum fittings as well as electrical connection.
Replace Grounding Strap and tighten bolts with Socket wrench and 13mm socket.
You have now finished! Enjoy the peace of mind of having a Detroit Tuned Tensioner Stop, and you didn't have to remove any engine mounts, splashguards, wheels etc.
If anyone has any questions feel free to PM me or email me at birth.by.fire@gmail.com I will be more than willing to walk you through this or answer any questions.
Happy Motoring
-Chris
A pre-warning. This technique may not work if you have large forearms or hands. I am 5'10 165 if that gives you an idea of how I can do the install this way. But I can imagine someone slightly larger could still successfully do this technique. If not, have a friend help you. I found this way to be very simple and easy for most beginner mechanics to use.
Tools:
R53 Belt Tensioner Tool
Small Screwdriver
Hand Pliers
Medium Flathead Screwdriver
13mm wrench with ratcheting box end
Socket Wrench with 13mm socket
Loc-Tite
Start by disconnecting the plastic regulator next to the grounding strap on the passenger side of the car. This will include 2-vacuum clips (One on the bottom as well as one on the top) that you can remove by pressing the tabs and simply pulling off. Then remove the electrical connection by lifting the tab and pulling. You can now take the Hand Pliers and compress the metal tab holding the regulator on until it is flattened. Remove the regulator by sliding it off to the left. Set aside.
Remove the two 13mm bolts holding the Ground Strap on. With the upper bolt, hold your finger underneath it so the bolt doesn't fall off and get lost. Set aside.
You will now have full access to de-tension the belt. Take Tensioner Tool and de-tension the tensioner and insert Small Screwdriver in second hole of the tensioner. Set aside Tensioner Tool.
This is where things get creative. Locate the bolt head on the tensioner "shock absorber." With your right hand, place 13mm wrench with ratchet end near the bolt (don't worry about getting it on the head yet). Then take your left hand and snake it under the passenger side motor mount and you should be able to help the wrench onto the bolt. It may take a few tries. While holding the box-end of the wrench with your left hand, loosen the bolt with your right hand. If you are doing it correctly, you should now be hugging your motor and your face is now resting on the intercooler
Remove bolt and apply Blue Loc-Tite. Replace bolt with Tensioner Stop. This can only be done with your left hand in the same process as when you helped the wrench before. You should be able to tighten the bolt with your left hand until you will need the wrench to tighten further. Let the Tensioner Stop hang completely vertical (you will see why).
Using the same technique as the removal, tighten bolt with the wrench. As you tighten it all the way, the Tensioner Stop should now be angled towards the rear of the car. This is the proper angle that it needs to be to function properly. (this is why you left the Tensioner Stop hang vertical)
The rear bolt on the tensioner is MUCH easier to remove. Look right above your oil filter, see that bolt on the Tensioner Shock? This is the one you remove. Using same wrench, let the handle point towards the ground and place the box-end on the bolt (If you have the handle upright, you will risk crushing the vacuum lines on the firewall). Remove bolt, apply Blue Loc-Tite, replace bolt through other end of the Tensioner Stop. Tighten bolt. You're almost done!
With the Tensioner Tool, de-tension the tensioner and remove small screwdriver.
Slide plastic regulator back on mount. With the Medium Flathead Screwdriver pry the metal tab you previously flattened with the pliers so the regulator is now locked into place. Replace upper and lower vacuum fittings as well as electrical connection.
Replace Grounding Strap and tighten bolts with Socket wrench and 13mm socket.
You have now finished! Enjoy the peace of mind of having a Detroit Tuned Tensioner Stop, and you didn't have to remove any engine mounts, splashguards, wheels etc.

If anyone has any questions feel free to PM me or email me at birth.by.fire@gmail.com I will be more than willing to walk you through this or answer any questions.
Happy Motoring
-Chris
Chris,
I just did a crank pulley upgrade and I noticed that if you remove the plastic fender wall, you can access the tensioner as well. I was thinking of doing the Alta version through this area.
Carl
I just did a crank pulley upgrade and I noticed that if you remove the plastic fender wall, you can access the tensioner as well. I was thinking of doing the Alta version through this area.
Carl
Tensioner Strap by Detroit Tuned works
I had a DT tensioner strap, SC and crank pulleys a new belt installed by a local mechanic who did not install the crank pulley bolt correctly. The bolt came out partially and hit the frame. I lost a new belt but limped in on a 2000 RPM non-functioning Mini. The strap held and prevented further damage. I swear by this very simple and inexpensive add-on. All Mini’s should have this as a standard.
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