Has anybody replaced their snout bearings, seal and coupler on their bagged out supercharger? I've got a spare 2005 M45 with clean waterpump drive gear oil and good looking gears but the snout oil was far from clean so it's getting a re-fit. I might as well repack the rotor bearings too.

I've searched the net for tips and photos of our unique M45 but have not found any good info on rebuilding. Any tips/photos welcome. Thanks!

Jeremy

 

My post from 'that other forum':

I have the snout apart today after picking up an appropriately sized pitman arm puller. I actually only used the puller for removing the outer snout bearing. I used my press to carefully drive the snout shaft down through the snout housing with an 11mm socket. After the pop the drive coupler was free to come off. The inner bearing was drifted out and as mentioned before the outer bearing was pulled off the shaft.

Jeremy

 

I spent some time this morning sacrificing a tie rod end puller to fit beneath and pull off the 24 toothed PTO gear. There's only 3/16" under the little gear to fit the puller in. Check out the port(not polish) job on the puller below.

Upon inspection the rotors and their shafts look good so I think I'll try to source a new shaft seal for reassembly and some appropriate high heat grease for the inner bearings.

I'll clean up the case casting inperfections and look into sealing off the noise ports. Stiegemeier reccommended epoxy and not to TIG patch weld in there as it may damage the case. I'll do some more research on that one.

Jeremy

 

Interested to see posts of the rebuild, good work! Keep us posted

 

Yes, really cool.

 

The blower swap is almost done. I've cleaned up the rough casting as far as my dremel would reach into the inlet and I radiused the outlet port. I opted not to touch the sound ports with welding(heat distortion of case) or epoxy(loose bits rattling around on rotors). Last things on the list are to bake the waterpump drive gear and press it on to the rotor shaft, seal up the rear end, add some SC oil and fit the SC pulley!

Jeremy

Half way radiused.


Fully radiused.

 

More photos below.

Jeremy

Rotors returned to case.



Gaskets, O-rings, and oil to complete the job.

Old blower removed.

 

 

That's the way I measure fun... the bigger to "bomb effect"....

Have you been here http://www.zzperformance.com/grand_p...=155&catid=106 this coupler is very good. There are lots of other blower parts as well.

 

too bad they're mostly M90 guys....

Matt

 

It is too bad...but the coupler works well on our cars. Used 1 on my other blower car w/mp45 & I't seems to be "more" quite than OE.... the tell is when the AC is on.

 

Thanks for the link Steve.

I did change the coupler to a similar oil impregnated style!

Jeremy

 

You're welcome.... & best of with the rebuild

 

I am about to be forced to rebuild my supercharger and am so glad that you took the time to document your work. Where did you find your gasket and seal kit?

 

Gaskets and seals were sourced from a local MINI Service center.

I've taken apart my stock blower and will try to source seals and bearings for it. I'll start another thread once I have that info.

Jeremy

 

Did you use a Bentley manual to disassemble the front end? Im going to be having my supercharger rebuilt soon, but i don't have a Bentley manual (yet).
And did you have to get more/new coolant? or is it as clean as in that pic?

 

Yes I have Bentley manual but it's not that difficult to put in service mode to access the blower. I swung the MFE out of the way to gain access as you can see. Yes drain and replace coolant.

Jeremy

 

I am about to apply the JHiggs port procedure to my own L-shaped puller to remove the timing gear. Was there an oil seal or seals integrated onto the needle bearing for the pto gear shaft? I am assuming that there must be and am hesitant to pull out the rotors if doing so might compromise the integrity of that seal. I couldn't tell from your pictures.

Also, did you torque the bolts for the snout and the pto gear cover?

 

It's a double lipped seal and is ok to remove rotor pack. I'm trying to source seals locally here for my stock rebuild. The PTO seal looks to be 28.57mm/1.125" by 15mm by 7.11mm/.28". When you reassemble just coat stub of rotor shaft with SC oil to prevent the lips from folding over(if it's an old old seal it'll probably not even distort).

Make sure you heat up the PTO gear a bunch before pressing it back onto rotor shaft.

I torqued the snout bolts 18 ft-lbs with blue loctite.

Jeremy

 

There is an integral seal on needle bearing but on the rotor lobe side(see photos). Rumour is there's a 40 week back order for the INA needle bearings too.

Jeremy

 

You, sir, are the man for your efforts and sharing your information. I called a rebuilder recommended from the forum and all the information that I was able to glean from the brief conversation we had was, "don't try this at home, you don't have my proprietary space-age CNC'd dilithium crystal cup adapter mandatory for this task. Leave this job to the big boys and send me your $$ and supercharger."

Consolidated Bearings has a single sealed bearing that is identical in dimensions to the INA bearing. My father considers himself to be a bearing snob (no bs, he actually said that to me once) but I don't know timken from RBC, is there a problem with the Consolidated Bearing Co?

Thx for the torque info, btw. The dimensions that you posted for the seal are odd. I couldn't find a match online. Where did you take the measurements from?

 

The bearing company I spoke to said they are SAE/metric mix type of oil seal with and OD of 1 and 1/8" and an ID of 15mm. They pointed me to a specialist local oil seal company. I have yet to contact them.

Like I said I'll start a M45 tear down thread soon. The toughest part of the job is going to be reassembling the rotor pack/timing rotors. It might be a good call to eventually get the rotors and case coated and have them reassemble it with a warranty.

Jeremy

 

I sure you have probably already seen this page, but I found it to be useful. You can also see the alternative to a "proprietary space-age CNC'd dilithium crystal cup adapter" at about 14/15 pictures down.

 

Yeah I`ve seen that 62 build before. Yep all you need is a good vise, shop press, brass hammer, brass punches, modified pullers and you`re good to go for the tear down.

Here is are pics of the seals and new front bearings. The front rotor pack seals are different dimensions...silly. So there are 3 different oil seals to source for the build.

Jeremy

 

Lemme guess, no markings on the seals?

Here's one from a place near me: $9.50
Dual Lip with One Spring Shaft Seal 15mm X 28.58mm X 7mm Nitrile lip. It has a rubber over steel construction and it looks like all of your seals are steel over rubber. I don't know if it would matter much. The next closest seal that they had with a steel outer and dual lip was 15 x 35 x 7.
From Applied.com. (You have to be patient with their online catalog, to get it to work I had to select a category on the left and then choose from the pop-up links in center of the page.)

Turns out Consolidated Bearing, INA, SKF and *** all make the appropriately sized and sealed bearings. Looking at your most recent pictures, I am assuming that you only flipped over the seals in the second picture. I found Consolidated's on Motion Industries catalog.