If I could do it all over again$$$$ the obx downpipe and exhaust would be on my car .The brightside is that I saved my stock downpipe and jcw exhaust for when resale time comes.


LUVIN MY POWERHOUSE TURBOBACK

 

I'm running the stock exhaust so I think I could get away with running just the DP seeing how the resonator is really small compared to the JWC cars.

 

I drove another 75 miles today in the warm weather. I'm still not getting a CEL not even after I set the cruise to 65mph for 15 miles. Im not sure why Im not getting a CEL but its very welcomed. If this keeps up I wont mind occasionally resetting via my scangauge.

I did find an exhaust leak where I had gotten welds yesterday so I had them fix it this time for $10.

I also re-torqued all the nuts and bolts and found the turbo/DP bolts quite loose after a few heat cycles. Im glad I checked them!

 

Nice one ! stay on top of the torque settings on the downpipe .

 

At the risk of really showing my ignorance here... What do you guys do when it comes time for emissions testing?

I would love to do a catless DP and exhaust with an o2 sim, but what happens when inspection time comes? These things must make the car fail?

 

swap it out takes just a few minutes.

 

Once again, my ignorance...

I already have a CAI, hot tube, BOV, etc, etc... bolt on stuff.

If I were to go and do all the stuff I really want to do: IC, DP, exhaust, Meth inj. and tune.

Would I only need to put the stock DP and exhaust back on to pass the emisions testing? If I do that will it mess up the tune?

Sorry, I have built a few hot rods in the past. Never had to worry about computers or emisions before.

 

YES

 

After 95 miles I finally got a CEL: P0141

Now i gotta figure out how to clear it with my scangauge

 

Get a riss o2 sim and follow directions in my post on the sim o2 thread

 

I seem to be having trouble clearing the P0141 code using my Scangauge. i click "clear codes" and the scangauge just goes blank until I press any button. The check engine light doesnt even try to go away. I must be doing something wrong?

 

OK I finally got my scangauge to clear BOTH codes (P0141 and P0420) this morning. I had to restart my car a few times as well as tell the SG to clear codes several times and it finally cleared them. I'll let everyone know how long it takes for the codes to come back.

 

<SIGH> Another CEL: P0420 again. Time to buy a RR O2 SIM.

Its been 4 days with the OBX/WMW setup and I couldnt be happier at the moment. I'll get a tune soon I hope.

 

sound clips!

 

how's it workin for u meat?

i'm seriously considering purchasing the whole shebang for $425

the problem is they want $300 for international shipping..

but considering the supersprint exhaust they're copying costs about $2,000..

it seems like a better option 1/3 price..



on a side note can an ecu flash get rid of the o2 check for the cat?

 

Its been almost a week and Im a happy customer. One thing I wish I did was get all OBX components. One because their cat-back exhaust has a resonator, and two because I'm not really liking my custom transition piece to WMW cat-back. I think I finally got it in order, but it involved wrapping a short length of high-temp exhaust tape around the overlaping joint, and then sandwitch the overlapping joint/tape with the jegs Lap-Band Clamp with. I know the exhaust tape I used only lasts a little while but hopefully the tape with the clamp will last a long time. Doing this stopped ALL exhaust leaks but only for the life of the exhaust tape sandwitched between the clamp. I dont know for how long. I imagine the full OBX system would not have anything near this problem as the pieces should fit together much better.

The exhaust tape I used was not that heat-wrap but actually exhaust 'fix-it' sticky tape from Autozone. The stuff is designed mainly to fix holes in rotting muflers and the like and only cost $2.99 for about 2 feet.


Another slight concern of mine is the life of the flex-gasket between the DP and Midpipe. I really dont know how long that will hold up... I already found it leaking but was able to stop it by just tightening the pices tighter together. The trade-off of tightening it more and more is that the section will lose flexibility the tighter it gets. I'm at the point now where the springs are totally compressed and the whole joint is almost solid. I dont think it will flex much, but its better than the pin-hole leak it had before. If it comes down to it leaking again I may have to buy a real flex section and get that welded up. I dont think it would cost me more than $35 US for SS and some tig welds.

I cant be the one to say spend the $300 for shipping... If you were in the US I'd say go for it because the worst that can happen is you might have to do some handy-man fixes. I can live with that - I like working on cars, but some people cant stand getting their hands dirty and should buy a better R&D'd product. Since you own and track RX7s I'd say go for it and make good of what you already know about wrenching cars.

 

I have a similar setup to unclemeat's. I have the OBX dp with the JCW exhaust. It has given me a bit of trouble. when installing I found that the conecting pipe provided with the dp didn't line up with the JCW exhaust. On top of that the JCW exhaust is bigger than the connecting pipe. I ended up having a local exhaust shop install it for me. I am pretty sure it still has an exhaust leak somewhere though. It smells strongly in my car. Over all I am happy. It is really loud at WOT but isn't bad at all while cruising. I think the car is significantly faster but thats just with my butt dyno. I picked up the scanguage ii for the CELs and it was working great until the other day. now when I try to reset the code (P0420 btw) the scanguage just goes blank and the CEL stays on.

 

Any chance you could record a soundclip?

 

Sound wise its not as raspy as this R56:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y6zfn...rom=PL&index=4

But it sounds very similar to this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NkHY1...BFD495&index=6

 

Has anyone else bought and installed the OBX DP? I am very happy with it after 2 weeks. No problems other than a CEL.

 

Stupid me... Its been over two weeks since install, yet I just found out that I screwed up the install.

If you look on the E-Bay such as the one listing here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-C...Q5fCarQ5fParts

You'll find the kit comes with 3 soft mating gaskets and 1 stainless flex gasket. Of course the three-holed gasket is used between the turbo and the dp, but I never figured out what to do with the other two gaskets... until now!

These two gaskets go first in line right after the downpipe and get sandwitched between the DP and the stainless flex-gasket. I didnt do this from the start and within days I had some small exhaust leaks... two weeks later i realized what I had to do - just install them post DP and before the Midpipe flex gasket. My mistake and its an easy one to make if you dont have any instructions. Its hard to tell from the e-bay pictures but trust me, the stainless-flex gasket mates much more reliabily to the soft gasket material than it does metal-on-metal to the flange of the DP.

NO MORE EXHAUST LEAKS!!!

-Hey, Thats what you get for buying off E-Bay with no instructions. If you bought this kit its well worth installing those two gaskets.

 

any updates on this OBX downpipe? im hoping to buy it for my factory JCW exhaust but im a little nervous about the fitment...

 

It most ikely will not fit your factory exhaust. If yours is like mine ('09 Factory JCW) then the exhaust system from the downpipe to the tail is one compete 12-foot-long system with no breaks or flanges piecing it together. Your best bet with the OBX DP would be to buy the OBX cat-back exhaust.

FWIW I ended up putting the exhaust back to stock so the dealer would service a high-pressure fuel pump failure. Oh and that I was getting CELs. Afaik the RR o2 sim is not working yet.

 

Just to make sure, because I'm following this thread closely!

I have an MCS completely stock (not for long ) for which I want to get another exhaust to get it roaring for once... I was thinking about the OBX downpipe, JCW front muffler (the stage 1) and the JCW rear muffler!

Anyone knows whether this would fit?

 

Alwyn, there is actually a video posted up on youtube of a mini that has the OBX downpipe with a jcw stage 1 exhaust. check it out, it sounds very nice, especially at full throttle