You could use Saf-T-Lok T72 Threadlocker. If I remember right it's good to 400 or 450 degrees F.

 

I think the turbo gets a lot hotter than that

 

I think the temp is probably a bit higher than that.

 

*shrug* Just throwing out an idea there. Sorry it was a bad one.

 

How did the dealership find out that you had it tuned?

 

Honestly I don't see a need to lock down any of it. I say that because I don't think that it's normal that the exhaust downpipe just worked it's way loose. I personally think when the exhaust was installed, they never tightened the nuts down all the way.

I may be wrong but I've never heard of anyone else on this forum saying their nuts backed off their studs.




When the car was towed into the dealership, the warranty rep said they had never seen anything like it so they were going to assign a field engineer.

When the field engineer said he hadn't seen anything like it, he started digging.

Apparently he brought his own equipment and plugged it into the OBDII and found it had a non-stock map.

I don't know, I didn't mention anything.

I'm fighting now to get my warranty back. In order for them to void my warranty, they have to prove that the modification in question (in this case the tune) caused the problem.

They never checked anything. They found out it had a tune and wrote the melted valve cover off on that.

Now that I can prove the tune wasn't the culprit, they can't void my warranty based on a hunch. They obviously won't cover the repair since my mod (the downpipe) caused the problem but they can't void it because of it.

We'll see what happens.


Mark

 

OC, I just checked mine (learning from your experience) and they are tight.

 

I'm going to check mine tomorrow! Eeeks

Hope you get re-instated!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Rumm

 

Tighten them, drive the car to get it nice and warm, then re-tighten them. Heat cycling bolts like this is very important. It also is common for OEMs to have some sort of "lock" built into the nuts. When you loosen those, it is possible to make that feature not work as well.

Also, do you have the brace that goes from the block to the down pipe? If not, I am willing to be that this is a lot of your problem.

 

Very good points.... I'll doublecheck the nuts like that.

Hmmmm, brace, what brace? I'll bet if I look at the OEM setup, there's a brace missing in my new setup.

I'll look into that as well.


Mark

 

Thats exhaust depot for you!

They sold my JCW exhaust because i left it there for too long.

 

I hate to hear that but you must have left it there a LONG time though. I left mine there for about 2 months before I had a chance to drive to FL and pick it back up.

So I know you left it there at least 2 months.

Most shops that do fabrication work will hold something for 30 days and then they'll dispose of it. (whether sell it or trash it)

I'm not bad mouthing them but they did do a fantastic job on the exhaust but I was disappointed when I bought a boost tube from a friend. (brand new, never installed) and it didn't fit worth a crap.

Since there was nothing you could do it and I had a a dyno day the next day, I cut it off and mickey moused a tube to make it fit just for the dyno day.

When I told Hector, he never even offered to replace it. Bad business judgement in my opinion. They do great work but customer service after the sale is more important than before the sale.

Mark

 

Orange,

You may want to check that the DP is securly fastened to the block itself as others have mentioned. Im now going to check my ALTA DP to see if the bolts have come loose at all, just to be safe.

If you are underneath the car, the stock DP has two mounting brackets that attach to the block, kind of near the front of the oil pan (just above) if I remember correctly. They are used to hold the DP in place when the block torques itself from acceleration, and such. My ALTA DP only uses one of these bolt points.

Im glad though that you did find the problem! I assume your horsepower has been found again?