Drivetrain How to Install CamShaft
Good-Luck....a pretty in-depth item to do from a DIY. IMO this is something you want to do with a knowlegable engine person next to you. If you don't already have a bottle of assembly lube in you garage, perhaps it is time to pay someone some $$$ to do it.
Well I was hoping for a few pages of a shop manual. I have many rebuilds of outboard & diesel inboard engines but never rebuilt a BMW/mini so I think it would be a good idea if I had shop manual. So anyone can chime in with a manual I could do a write up soon. If not I have to order one. Last one I bought on ebay did not turn out so well.
If anyone knows where to get a shop manual for cheap please chime in. Thanks
If anyone knows where to get a shop manual for cheap please chime in. Thanks
Trending Topics
Okay I guess NAM does not work with google Chrome when it comes to attachments. Well Here is instructions on how to install CAM and torque values on head. I will post pictures this weekend when I do the install.
DAMN! Way more of a PITA than I though it would be
How did the install go!? Ive done all my own mods, but am a little uncomfortable doing this one...My best friend however, has a 2000 Trans am WS6 that ive helped tear apart and replace push rods, lifters, injectors, transmission, torque converter, rear end..blah blah blah...You thing we could handle this project!?
How did the install go!? Ive done all my own mods, but am a little uncomfortable doing this one...My best friend however, has a 2000 Trans am WS6 that ive helped tear apart and replace push rods, lifters, injectors, transmission, torque converter, rear end..blah blah blah...You thing we could handle this project!?
My little dose of LITHIUM
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,435
Likes: 2
From: Albuquerque New Mexico
I did the cam with the Bentley manual, no BMW tools and rudimentary tools. It's quite straightforward, but I had problems with 2 things:
1. Holding the cam gear while undoing the nut that holds the gear to the shaft. (This is repeated when tightening the nut to torque, -- so the problem arises twice.) I have seen it done with a screwdriver (!!) but I ended up wasting a couple of hours fabricating my own makeshift tool/holder. It can be done, though.
2. The nut holding the cam tensioner in is at the back of the engine down near the oil cooler. It's totally inaccessible (well, not really, but darn close to totally...) and I have yet to meet anyone--including the techs at the dealer--who torque it back to spec upon rebuilding. You have to bend a wrench or cut a socket (what I did) and just wail on it as hard as possible hoping you got near 75 ftlbs. I have never heard of a problem with leaks as a result, but it is sure to leave marks on your hand...
Otherwise, easy peasy...
(The guy using the screwdriver did a cam exchange at a dyno tune in less than 30 minutes--it was very impressive!)
1. Holding the cam gear while undoing the nut that holds the gear to the shaft. (This is repeated when tightening the nut to torque, -- so the problem arises twice.) I have seen it done with a screwdriver (!!) but I ended up wasting a couple of hours fabricating my own makeshift tool/holder. It can be done, though.
2. The nut holding the cam tensioner in is at the back of the engine down near the oil cooler. It's totally inaccessible (well, not really, but darn close to totally...) and I have yet to meet anyone--including the techs at the dealer--who torque it back to spec upon rebuilding. You have to bend a wrench or cut a socket (what I did) and just wail on it as hard as possible hoping you got near 75 ftlbs. I have never heard of a problem with leaks as a result, but it is sure to leave marks on your hand...
Otherwise, easy peasy...
(The guy using the screwdriver did a cam exchange at a dyno tune in less than 30 minutes--it was very impressive!)
My little dose of LITHIUM
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,435
Likes: 2
From: Albuquerque New Mexico
If you find a dealer who will do that, tell us all! I would highly doubt they would want to implicate themselves in any mod to a car they then have to warranty (and it doesn't really matter if the car is in official warranty or out of it.)
Any good auto shop should be able to do it, but they won't have the BMW tools either--they will just use a screwdriver while you're not looking...(not that there's anything wrong with that--I will use a screwdriver next time I do it, for sure!)
Get yourself the Bentley (you shouldn't have a Mini without one) and go for it. Really. Give yourself a whole day and I assure you it will be working at sunset.
Any good auto shop should be able to do it, but they won't have the BMW tools either--they will just use a screwdriver while you're not looking...(not that there's anything wrong with that--I will use a screwdriver next time I do it, for sure!)
Get yourself the Bentley (you shouldn't have a Mini without one) and go for it. Really. Give yourself a whole day and I assure you it will be working at sunset.
[SIZE=3][FONT=Times New Roman]I always torque the camchain tensioner plug to spec @46ft-lb and the camshaft bolt to 75ft-lb. Use a wobble extension to provide the angle needed to access a shallow 19mm socket on the end of the plug. [/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Times New Roman][/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Times New Roman]For the camshaft bolt, put a screwdriver in the front brake rotor’s cooling vein on each side, with the car in gear the screwdrivers will brace against the caliper and allow the camshaft bolt to be removed and replaced. Just re-position the screwdriver on the appropriate side of the caliper to proved resistance. [/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Times New Roman][/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Times New Roman]For the camshaft bolt, put a screwdriver in the front brake rotor’s cooling vein on each side, with the car in gear the screwdrivers will brace against the caliper and allow the camshaft bolt to be removed and replaced. Just re-position the screwdriver on the appropriate side of the caliper to proved resistance. [/FONT][/SIZE]
I did the cam with the Bentley manual, no BMW tools and rudimentary tools. It's quite straightforward, but I had problems with 2 things:
1. Holding the cam gear while undoing the nut that holds the gear to the shaft. (This is repeated when tightening the nut to torque, -- so the problem arises twice.) I have seen it done with a screwdriver (!!) but I ended up wasting a couple of hours fabricating my own makeshift tool/holder. It can be done, though.
2. The nut holding the cam tensioner in is at the back of the engine down near the oil cooler. It's totally inaccessible (well, not really, but darn close to totally...) and I have yet to meet anyone--including the techs at the dealer--who torque it back to spec upon rebuilding. You have to bend a wrench or cut a socket (what I did) and just wail on it as hard as possible hoping you got near 75 ftlbs. I have never heard of a problem with leaks as a result, but it is sure to leave marks on your hand...
Otherwise, easy peasy...
(The guy using the screwdriver did a cam exchange at a dyno tune in less than 30 minutes--it was very impressive!)
1. Holding the cam gear while undoing the nut that holds the gear to the shaft. (This is repeated when tightening the nut to torque, -- so the problem arises twice.) I have seen it done with a screwdriver (!!) but I ended up wasting a couple of hours fabricating my own makeshift tool/holder. It can be done, though.
2. The nut holding the cam tensioner in is at the back of the engine down near the oil cooler. It's totally inaccessible (well, not really, but darn close to totally...) and I have yet to meet anyone--including the techs at the dealer--who torque it back to spec upon rebuilding. You have to bend a wrench or cut a socket (what I did) and just wail on it as hard as possible hoping you got near 75 ftlbs. I have never heard of a problem with leaks as a result, but it is sure to leave marks on your hand...
Otherwise, easy peasy...
(The guy using the screwdriver did a cam exchange at a dyno tune in less than 30 minutes--it was very impressive!)
2 - get a universal adapter for your socket - and BTW I torqued mine to the 75 ftlbs when reinstalling
Ugh...This just keeps me pushing further and further away from doing this mod
I would really like to do it, but dont know if I trust myself enough yet to get this "deep" into this mod
Lemme know how ur installs went, and what not! Any advice would be helpful!
I would really like to do it, but dont know if I trust myself enough yet to get this "deep" into this mod
Lemme know how ur installs went, and what not! Any advice would be helpful!
Thanks for the info. I am still going to have Helix do it on Monday for me. If they have a new cam sprocket bolt that would be great if not oh well... I'm getting very excited about it though!
I just wanted to add a bit from my experience. I installed an RMW cam yesterday. I had previously replaced my timing chain tensioner from the engine bay by feel without a problem. With this in mind, I decided to leave the wheel on the car and drove it up on ramps for clearance to raise the engine. If you leave the wheel on you don't have to worry about the cam turning during removal and installation of the cam bolt. Just put the transmission in 6th gear and you will have no problems. I was able to remove and reinstall the cam bolt to 75ft/lbs with ease. I was all prepared to fabricate a cam brace for stabilization but it wasn't necessary.
Chad
Chad
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
squawSkiBum
MINI Parts for Sale
15
Oct 2, 2015 09:21 AM



