Drivetrain OBX Header Ceramic Coated Mild Steel or 100% T304 Stainless Steel
OBX Header Ceramic Coated Mild Steel or 100% T304 Stainless Steel
I have spent multiple hours reading up on the OBX Header and I have decided I am going to order one from ebay and get the stock cat welded in between the obx header and my magnaflow exhaust piping.
I cant decide which finish to order though, Ceramic Coated Mild Steel or 100% T304 Stainless Steel. Which is better? Ive heard Ceramic is better for heat but it this one isnt stainless correct? so is it better or worse?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33631
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/02-06-Mini-Cooper-S-OBX-SS-Header-Supercharged-Tritec_W0QQitemZ150351627881QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMot ors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item2301a7c66 9&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A12|39%3A1|7 2%3A1205|240%3A1318
I cant decide which finish to order though, Ceramic Coated Mild Steel or 100% T304 Stainless Steel. Which is better? Ive heard Ceramic is better for heat but it this one isnt stainless correct? so is it better or worse?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33631
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/02-06-Mini-Cooper-S-OBX-SS-Header-Supercharged-Tritec_W0QQitemZ150351627881QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMot ors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item2301a7c66 9&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A12|39%3A1|7 2%3A1205|240%3A1318
Id go with the coated myself. Ive seen that cheap stainless crack way to many times. While you are welding on the cat get the ball and socket joint cut off and use a flex joint to save you another post down the road
Just my .02, but I don't agree here. When we had an OBX, I was having a problem locating a gasket for the joint because mine failed due to me not installing it properly due to my ignorance. When I asked about getting a flex joint instead, I was told that they were very problematic and prone to failure and that the existing joint installed properly would last far longer. This is from a very prestigious muffler shop in my area that has been in business for over 30 years. I believe Bahamabart has had his original gasket on for over three years. As for the CAT, the OBX and Magnaflow exhaust are both 2.5 in diameter and you will be welding on a smaller diameter pipe using the stock CAT which is in essence inserting a restriction. It would be better and make more sense to buy a 2.5 in high flow CAT and have that installed. They can be bought for less than $70. You will also not have to cut up the stock header in case you ever need it again.
Just my .02, but I don't agree here. When we had an OBX, I was having a problem locating a gasket for the joint because mine failed due to me not installing it properly due to my ignorance. When I asked about getting a flex joint instead, I was told that they were very problematic and prone to failure and that the existing joint installed properly would last far longer. This is from a very prestigious muffler shop in my area that has been in business for over 30 years. I believe Bahamabart has had his original gasket on for over three years. As for the CAT, the OBX and Magnaflow exhaust are both 2.5 in diameter and you will be welding on a smaller diameter pipe using the stock CAT which is in essence inserting a restriction. It would be better and make more sense to buy a 2.5 in high flow CAT and have that installed. They can be bought for less than $70. You will also not have to cut up the stock header in case you ever need it again.
I love your sig by the way. my last car was a gti 1.8t.
Trending Topics
The donut (ball/socket) is an old design that is still in use today for a reason. If installed properly they can last for years. I've been running and OBX header w/ the donut (ball/socket) for 3 YEARS with NO FAILURE.
The point here is that the OBX comes with a perfectly good joint on it. The standard flex joints fail too. Maybe some Megan header owners can chime in about that. I was advised by the owner of the exhaust shop that I go to who has been in business for over 30 years to not go with a flex joint. He said that a properly installed ball and socket joint in his opinion was a lot more reliable. I installed mine myself, it was my first time ever installing a header and I didn't even know what a flex joint or ball and socket joint was. I tightened the springs all of the way down which was wrong and caused it to fail about a year later. Due to the difficulty of finding an OBX gasket (Helix now carries them), I ended up having a flex joint installed, but it was the same type that is pictured below on the RMW Street Header (I actually got it from Jan) and is far superior to a standard flex joints which are easy to rip. My advice is make sure it is installed by someone that knows what they are doing and you won't have to worry about it.
You need to have it properly adjusted. There needs to be some flex, that is why there are springs on it. I didn't know this and I tightened it down so that the springs were completely crushed.
I have no issue with mine - 30,000 miles / 3 years.
Excellent!!
The biggest negative was getting a replacement donut but as indicated above Helix carries them now.
A plus is that if you do need to replace the donut, it can be done w/out having to remove the header. With the other flex joints you have tio pull the header.
If you go this route -
1) ensure to double nut or copper nut the spring bolts or you will be back under the car.
2) install header, measure distance to exhaust - the cat w/ flanges should just fit (i.e. it should not push on the exhaust nor should there be a gap which you are looking for the springs to close). A SNUG FIT. My installer said this was the key to durability.
3) the springs should not be more than 50% compressed.
A plus is that if you do need to replace the donut, it can be done w/out having to remove the header. With the other flex joints you have tio pull the header.
If you go this route -
1) ensure to double nut or copper nut the spring bolts or you will be back under the car.
2) install header, measure distance to exhaust - the cat w/ flanges should just fit (i.e. it should not push on the exhaust nor should there be a gap which you are looking for the springs to close). A SNUG FIT. My installer said this was the key to durability.
3) the springs should not be more than 50% compressed.
The biggest negative was getting a replacement donut but as indicated above Helix carries them now.
A plus is that if you do need to replace the donut, it can be done w/out having to remove the header. With the other flex joints you have tio pull the header.
If you go this route -
1) ensure to double nut or copper nut the spring bolts or you will be back under the car.
2) install header, measure distance to exhaust - the cat w/ flanges should just fit (i.e. it should not push on the exhaust nor should there be a gap which you are looking for the springs to close). A SNUG FIT. My installer said this was the key to durability.
3) the springs should not be more than 50% compressed.
A plus is that if you do need to replace the donut, it can be done w/out having to remove the header. With the other flex joints you have tio pull the header.
If you go this route -
1) ensure to double nut or copper nut the spring bolts or you will be back under the car.
2) install header, measure distance to exhaust - the cat w/ flanges should just fit (i.e. it should not push on the exhaust nor should there be a gap which you are looking for the springs to close). A SNUG FIT. My installer said this was the key to durability.
3) the springs should not be more than 50% compressed.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
squawSkiBum
MINI Parts for Sale
0
Sep 2, 2015 09:56 PM
ECSTuning
Drivetrain Products
0
Sep 2, 2015 01:08 PM
Hippiehobbit267
MINI Parts for Sale
0
Sep 1, 2015 06:13 PM



