Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain OBX Header Ceramic Coated Mild Steel or 100% T304 Stainless Steel

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Old Jun 17, 2009 | 06:46 PM
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OBX Header Ceramic Coated Mild Steel or 100% T304 Stainless Steel

I have spent multiple hours reading up on the OBX Header and I have decided I am going to order one from ebay and get the stock cat welded in between the obx header and my magnaflow exhaust piping.
I cant decide which finish to order though, Ceramic Coated Mild Steel or 100% T304 Stainless Steel. Which is better? Ive heard Ceramic is better for heat but it this one isnt stainless correct? so is it better or worse?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33631

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/02-06-Mini-Cooper-S-OBX-SS-Header-Supercharged-Tritec_W0QQitemZ150351627881QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMot ors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item2301a7c66 9&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A12|39%3A1|7 2%3A1205|240%3A1318
 
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Old Jun 18, 2009 | 07:03 AM
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Id go with the coated myself. Ive seen that cheap stainless crack way to many times. While you are welding on the cat get the ball and socket joint cut off and use a flex joint to save you another post down the road
 
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Old Jun 18, 2009 | 12:21 PM
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thanks i was leaning towards the coated one. is that connected to the cat or the header im buying? sorry dont know much about exhaust parts lol
 
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Old Jun 18, 2009 | 07:33 PM
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Its the so called flex joint on the header. Its a ball and socket type prone to fail quickly.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 09:16 AM
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oh ok is there any flex joints i should use that are cheap?
 
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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 11:32 AM
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Just my .02, but I don't agree here. When we had an OBX, I was having a problem locating a gasket for the joint because mine failed due to me not installing it properly due to my ignorance. When I asked about getting a flex joint instead, I was told that they were very problematic and prone to failure and that the existing joint installed properly would last far longer. This is from a very prestigious muffler shop in my area that has been in business for over 30 years. I believe Bahamabart has had his original gasket on for over three years. As for the CAT, the OBX and Magnaflow exhaust are both 2.5 in diameter and you will be welding on a smaller diameter pipe using the stock CAT which is in essence inserting a restriction. It would be better and make more sense to buy a 2.5 in high flow CAT and have that installed. They can be bought for less than $70. You will also not have to cut up the stock header in case you ever need it again.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2009 | 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by batrugger
Just my .02, but I don't agree here. When we had an OBX, I was having a problem locating a gasket for the joint because mine failed due to me not installing it properly due to my ignorance. When I asked about getting a flex joint instead, I was told that they were very problematic and prone to failure and that the existing joint installed properly would last far longer. This is from a very prestigious muffler shop in my area that has been in business for over 30 years. I believe Bahamabart has had his original gasket on for over three years. As for the CAT, the OBX and Magnaflow exhaust are both 2.5 in diameter and you will be welding on a smaller diameter pipe using the stock CAT which is in essence inserting a restriction. It would be better and make more sense to buy a 2.5 in high flow CAT and have that installed. They can be bought for less than $70. You will also not have to cut up the stock header in case you ever need it again.
I appreciate your information, thank you! which magnaflow cat would fit best ?
I love your sig by the way. my last car was a gti 1.8t.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2009 | 11:38 AM
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Thanks for the Compliment. We got this CAT:

Magnaflow high flow cat #94136
 

Last edited by batrugger; Jun 21, 2009 at 10:43 AM.
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Professor
Its the so called flex joint on the header. Its a ball and socket type prone to fail quickly.
I don't concur.

The donut (ball/socket) is an old design that is still in use today for a reason. If installed properly they can last for years. I've been running and OBX header w/ the donut (ball/socket) for 3 YEARS with NO FAILURE.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 03:04 PM
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Ball and socket not prone to leaking ey?

Well shoot I wonder why the majority of header and manifold makers dont just use those.

Great info
 
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 04:34 PM
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The point here is that the OBX comes with a perfectly good joint on it. The standard flex joints fail too. Maybe some Megan header owners can chime in about that. I was advised by the owner of the exhaust shop that I go to who has been in business for over 30 years to not go with a flex joint. He said that a properly installed ball and socket joint in his opinion was a lot more reliable. I installed mine myself, it was my first time ever installing a header and I didn't even know what a flex joint or ball and socket joint was. I tightened the springs all of the way down which was wrong and caused it to fail about a year later. Due to the difficulty of finding an OBX gasket (Helix now carries them), I ended up having a flex joint installed, but it was the same type that is pictured below on the RMW Street Header (I actually got it from Jan) and is far superior to a standard flex joints which are easy to rip. My advice is make sure it is installed by someone that knows what they are doing and you won't have to worry about it.

 
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 06:53 PM
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so if you over tighten the two bolts, it fails?
 
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 07:02 PM
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You need to have it properly adjusted. There needs to be some flex, that is why there are springs on it. I didn't know this and I tightened it down so that the springs were completely crushed.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 07:39 PM
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yes many folks do think the springs have to be compressed. But compressed springs mean no flew.

And yes Jans flex joint is the best.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by batrugger
The point here is that the OBX comes with a perfectly good joint on it. The standard flex joints fail too.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Professor
Ball and socket not prone to leaking ey?

Well shoot I wonder why the majority of header and manifold makers dont just use those.

Great info
I have no issue with mine - 30,000 miles / 3 years.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Professor
And yes Jans flex joint is the best.
Very durable BUT it also flexes the least of all the joints. How much flex is necessary ? no clue.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by batrugger
Thanks for the Compliment. We got this CAT:

Magnaflow high flow cat #94136
Thank You!!!

Originally Posted by Bahamabart
I have no issue with mine - 30,000 miles / 3 years.
Excellent!!
 
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Old Jun 23, 2009 | 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by dustinhxc
Thank You!!!


Excellent!!
The biggest negative was getting a replacement donut but as indicated above Helix carries them now.

A plus is that if you do need to replace the donut, it can be done w/out having to remove the header. With the other flex joints you have tio pull the header.

If you go this route -

1) ensure to double nut or copper nut the spring bolts or you will be back under the car.
2) install header, measure distance to exhaust - the cat w/ flanges should just fit (i.e. it should not push on the exhaust nor should there be a gap which you are looking for the springs to close). A SNUG FIT. My installer said this was the key to durability.
3) the springs should not be more than 50% compressed.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2009 | 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Bahamabart
The biggest negative was getting a replacement donut but as indicated above Helix carries them now.

A plus is that if you do need to replace the donut, it can be done w/out having to remove the header. With the other flex joints you have tio pull the header.

If you go this route -

1) ensure to double nut or copper nut the spring bolts or you will be back under the car.
2) install header, measure distance to exhaust - the cat w/ flanges should just fit (i.e. it should not push on the exhaust nor should there be a gap which you are looking for the springs to close). A SNUG FIT. My installer said this was the key to durability.
3) the springs should not be more than 50% compressed.
thank you for the tips!
 
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