I never said Clutch master is inferior to OEM. They purchase OEM pressure plates from a major manufacturer, and reinforce the pressure plates to make them more sturdy, as well as put in new diaphragm fingers/springs. I work in the clutch industry and it's common knowledge. It's practically impossible for small clutch companies, such as Clutch Masters and ACT, to have mass production plants like Exedy or Sachs when they don't have the financial backing from the big names like GM, Ford, and BMW. Sachs/LuK actually make very high quality clutches, Sachs pretty much invented the pull-type clutch. To say that the OEM is inferior is a gross understatement. Sachs/LuK make clutches for daily driving and comfort. The only real downside is that BMW requires them to make Dual Mass Flywheels, which by design, are just crap. Haha, there is no other way to explain it. Sprung hub clutches did the job just fine, and DMFs were really only supposed to be meant for rough idle applications like Diesels. To put them into a sport compact car is/was a bad decision.

The basis for "inferior clutches" really comes down to torque application. If you bolt on parts that are going to increase your torque curve, obviously the stock clutch won't hold up and will burn out. And again, with Dual Mass Flywheels, the torsion dampers have specific spring rates, exceed those and the flywheel setup is going to be damaged.

 

ninjlao, as a pro, what set up would you recommend for a daily driven, occasionally tracked, occasional canyon carver S? I have a Quaif waiting and when I drop the box I want to do clutch and fly wheel at same time to save on labor. What do you have on your car? My commute is a lots of stop and go, bumper to bumper, but at the dragon I could use a bit of faster reving/ shifting. Also, blipping on downshift is second nature to me with the OEM. How is that going to change with a lighter Fly wheel?