Yes, I understood you were talking specifically about Blimey's Mini. So, you are saying that you tuned his differently then all others?
Really, does adding a a header and a cam after your tune really shut down cars, like this?
Are you suggesting to people with your tune that they should be running data acquisition systems with wide band and EGT readings? Might want to do that if in fact they are this sensitive to modest changes. Yea, I can see a car not running optimally with add ons after the tune, but this is quite a dramatic failing in this instance.
?How lean does one need to run for these kinds of problems to develop?

 

I always tell people to tune the car after big changes. There are many variables that effect the car and how it drives. It's dynamic, you of all people should understand this with the tuning issues you had on your car.

As for your last question, I'm not here to give other tuners watching this thread how to tune cars. That's up to your tuner to figure it out

 

That's right. It's why I have asked these questions. And in the Jan fashion you answered with an attack, or diversion.
Darn, ... sorry guys, he's not talking. I tried!

 

I'm always available to fix issues with customers cars , no diversion there

 

Does it happen in all forward gears-speed limits permitting. ie Auto transmission problem?

Jeremy

 

Definitely in both 3rd and 4th, at same RPM point.... I though about tranny or torque converter... But tq converter lockup doesn't seem to explain it, and it's not happening anywhere near a shift point.

I'm buying more that it may be resolved with a retune. Still, just really weird for me that it went from nonexistent to consistent months after adding cam and header....

May try resetting ECU again?

 

Did you try the reset BlimeyCabrio? So it does not happen in 1st, 2nd or Reverse(only advise this test on a training center pad-hehe)? Hmmm.

Jeremy

 

I'm going to do the reset now and test again... I just finished road testing with the bypass valve disabled (always closed). Changed behavior slightly... now it makes more power down low (makes sense I guess, since boost builds earlier) but then is loses power momentarily between about 3800 and 4200, then comes back at 4200 - TPS reads in the high 80's from the start when I floor it (unlike before), then drops down into the 20's when it loses power for a half second or so while it continues to accelerate (less aggressively) to 4200, then TPS jumps back up to the 80's and away we go.

But I do know now that it's NOT related to the BPV closing at some specific point, etc...

I also confirmed that it does it in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. Can't tell about 1st (because at WOT you're at redline in no time), I'm not trying it in reverse, and nowhere near my house where I can go 4200RPM in 5th or 6th without going to jail.

If the reset doesn't change anything, I guess I'll just hold tight until I can get the retune and see what happens... or may get Dan Z to pop in his wideband A/F and see if we can tell anything from that...

The thing that has me paranoid is I'm 2000 miles and about 2-3 weeks from being out of warranty... if it turns out to be something that would be warranty-able...

 

OK, so reconnected my bypass valve. While I was in there decided to pull the IC horn and drill and tap for a later meth install...

Anyway, a couple of hours later, put it all back together. Leave the throttle cable disconnected. (oops). It doesn't run well like that. Plugged it back in, was in limp mode for the first time ever (48,000 miles - is that a record?), cleared codes, confirmed limp mode and EML and SES were gone, then reset ECU again and test drove.

No codes, no lights. Interesting.... still showing *some* flatness below 4200RPM, and still surging with full power at 4200 and above, but no as consistently as it did before. I managed a couple of 2nd and 3rd gear WOT runs with full power, then it was off and on... so I'm leaning toward a retune being in order at this point. Still just baffled at why it took the car months to figure out that it needed one... guess they called it MINI because the other four letter words were taken...

 

as far as the jumping back and forth from 80-20-80 it sounds like the dsc is kicking in or actiing up, mine will do the same thing everyonce in a while, but i cant get it to do it consistantly enough to check all things , if im looking to see if dsc kicked on i cant watch the boost gauge to see if its thats what it feel like when it does, it, but if i watch the boost gauge i cant see the dsc light blink

 

Definitely not DSC in my case. I know what you mean... but this ain't that. It's not near as abrupt nor severe as a DSC/ASC interruption.

 

But maybe the DSC part of the tune has been "corrupted"?

 

But it's not "cutting" power the way DSC does... doesn't feel even remotely close to the same sensation. It's just that the car isn't making as much torque as before at the sub-4200 RPM range - but it's still accelerating smoothly up to that point...

 

So it doesn't feel like you suddenly lost traction, like what would happen at a lower speed?

This is a strange one.....good luck.

 

nope

 

My car has a 17% pulley and has the same problem! It never did it for the first month or so of driving with the smaller pulley.
Now has a surge of power at 4200rpm. Another 5 to 6 psi.
Car is standard apart from 17% pulley, I also have the auto box.

I will be trying to the VGS mod at the weekend.
http://www.mini2.com/forum/engine-dr...ystem-vgs.html
Dan

 

Hi, I have the same problem with my MCS Auto, its standard apart from a 17% pulley.

The car was fine for the first month or so with the pulley installed, now there is a surge of power at about 4200rpm, another 5 or 6 PSI.

I am going to give the VGS a try at the weekend.
http://www.mini2.com/forum/engine-dr...ystem-vgs.html

Dan