Drivetrain Just installed Shark Injector
Keep in mind that I never drove the car with 15% pulley and the factory software.
>>As far as Octane goes, I believe the ECM will adjust for what it sees in terms of spark advance, etc.
>>
>>AFR (Air fuel ratio). Without posting a chart...
>>
>>Stock- 2000rpm 13 AFR, 3000-12.7, 4000-12.1, 5000-11.3, 6000-11.1, dip to 10.9 at 6150.
>>
>>SHARKED- 2000rpm 12.1 AFR, 3000-12.05, 4000-11.45, 5000-10.95, 6000-10.7, dip to 10.6 at 6,100.
>>
>>-Pete, Stratmosphere
Pete,
I assume these readings are with a intake installed ? Would it be a false assumption that running the stock airbox and filter would yield a slightly richer AFR ?
Thanks in advance .....
>>
>>AFR (Air fuel ratio). Without posting a chart...
>>
>>Stock- 2000rpm 13 AFR, 3000-12.7, 4000-12.1, 5000-11.3, 6000-11.1, dip to 10.9 at 6150.
>>
>>SHARKED- 2000rpm 12.1 AFR, 3000-12.05, 4000-11.45, 5000-10.95, 6000-10.7, dip to 10.6 at 6,100.
>>
>>-Pete, Stratmosphere
Pete,
I assume these readings are with a intake installed ? Would it be a false assumption that running the stock airbox and filter would yield a slightly richer AFR ?
Thanks in advance .....
I've had the shark 2 months now
-awesome throttle response
-I like the 7200 cutoff
-it feels indeed faster
-and I'v NEVER seen 40mpg before, well i just did, dunno if it's shark related, but i'm pleased
-awesome throttle response
-I like the 7200 cutoff
-it feels indeed faster
-and I'v NEVER seen 40mpg before, well i just did, dunno if it's shark related, but i'm pleased
The graph posted above almost killed any desire I had for the shark. The earlier torque, better driveability and no yoyo is all very appealing. I would like some muscle with that. My car will be going for it's first service very shortly and I expect to get the lattest ecu version from BMW at that point, Hopefuly. I hate the idea of having to buy the shark to fix problems BMW should have taken care of a long time ago but may have no other choice than to pay for better ecu software. I have a 15% reduced pulley, alta intake and may or may not want aftermarket exhaust. I've been waiting for Helix to release their ecu software but now wonder if it'll be better for cars that are more modified. What should I do?
Help!
:evil:
Help!
:evil:
>>The graph posted above almost killed any desire I had for the shark. The earlier torque, better driveability and no yoyo is all very appealing. I would like some muscle with that. My car will be going for it's first service very shortly and I expect to get the lattest ecu version from BMW at that point, Hopefuly. I hate the idea of having to buy the shark to fix problems BMW should have taken care of a long time ago but may have no other choice than to pay for better ecu software. I have a 15% reduced pulley, alta intake and may or may not want aftermarket exhaust. I've been waiting for Helix to release their ecu software but now wonder if it'll be better for cars that are more modified. What should I do?
>>Help!
>> :smile:
>>Help!
>> :smile:
I have the Shark and it goes into 'Limp Home Mode" if i hit the limiter. I have contacted EorpSport (where I purchased it) and asked them to question Conforti about this. The same problem was in the original Evo ECU reflash but they corrected it.
A week and a half later i have had no response so i would caution you not to buy a Shark until they come out publically and deal with the problem,.
If you have the extra $$$ and don't mind the slightly cumbersome process of borrowing randy's hardware etc then I would suggest a Webb ECU with the 15% pully.
A week and a half later i have had no response so i would caution you not to buy a Shark until they come out publically and deal with the problem,.
If you have the extra $$$ and don't mind the slightly cumbersome process of borrowing randy's hardware etc then I would suggest a Webb ECU with the 15% pully.
>>Still nothing,
>>
>>I was enjoying this thread. Now it appears dead.
400ex,
I hope that this thread continues, I have learned several interesting things.
My own experience with the Shark remains the same, smoother throtle response, a little faster and lots of soot on the tail pipes. My mileage is around 23, most of my driving is around town. I love to go thru the gears at 6000+ whenever it's safe to do so, but I've never hit the Rev Limiter. So I don't know if it's7200 rpm for sure. I'll trust someone elses knowledge on that as I try NOT to go over 7000. I guess I'm getting "old".
I'm sorry that GordonD is having the problems, but I think EuroSport and Mr. Conforti should get involved. Maybe they arn't selling well, that's why I haven't read but a few reports like mine and GordonD's.
To be very honest I am considering getting Randy Webb's newest ECU Upgrade. Regards, Itzamazn
>>
>>I was enjoying this thread. Now it appears dead.
400ex,
I hope that this thread continues, I have learned several interesting things.
My own experience with the Shark remains the same, smoother throtle response, a little faster and lots of soot on the tail pipes. My mileage is around 23, most of my driving is around town. I love to go thru the gears at 6000+ whenever it's safe to do so, but I've never hit the Rev Limiter. So I don't know if it's7200 rpm for sure. I'll trust someone elses knowledge on that as I try NOT to go over 7000. I guess I'm getting "old".
I'm sorry that GordonD is having the problems, but I think EuroSport and Mr. Conforti should get involved. Maybe they arn't selling well, that's why I haven't read but a few reports like mine and GordonD's.
To be very honest I am considering getting Randy Webb's newest ECU Upgrade. Regards, Itzamazn
Sweeeeet,
Randy's Friggin Awesome !!!
The people in the know swear by that as the best upgrade available. It gives the best horsepower gains I know of.
Got to meet Randy a few weeks ago and had him do the pulley mod on my MCS.
Give him a call, or send him a PM, very helpful and a nice guy.
I too learned from this thread.
His reputation proceeds him.
The statements about increased engine life, were hard to ignore. Especialy when you only have 55 more payments to go. $100 per HP, is a little, ok alot, out my league.
In some ways I'm glad he is too busy to be a forum regular. I would have hated this thread to turn into a vendor trashing thread. Somebody would have called it BaBy Oil, I just know it.
Randy's Friggin Awesome !!!
The people in the know swear by that as the best upgrade available. It gives the best horsepower gains I know of.
Got to meet Randy a few weeks ago and had him do the pulley mod on my MCS.
Give him a call, or send him a PM, very helpful and a nice guy.
I too learned from this thread.
His reputation proceeds him.
The statements about increased engine life, were hard to ignore. Especialy when you only have 55 more payments to go. $100 per HP, is a little, ok alot, out my league.
In some ways I'm glad he is too busy to be a forum regular. I would have hated this thread to turn into a vendor trashing thread. Somebody would have called it BaBy Oil, I just know it.
Just for the record - I am in direct contact with Jim Conforti and he is being helpful in analysing my problem. he has made some suggestions and i will post as progress occurs.
He says they have no other recorded instances of the limp home problem and i have posted another thread on this site to see if I can find other people (so far 2)
I don't want to debate the relative merits of competative products but i am now satisfied that Conforti a) is concerned about the quality of his products (as his long standing reputation in the BMW world suggests) and b) the Shark for the MINI was carefully developed and tested.
He says they have no other recorded instances of the limp home problem and i have posted another thread on this site to see if I can find other people (so far 2)
I don't want to debate the relative merits of competative products but i am now satisfied that Conforti a) is concerned about the quality of his products (as his long standing reputation in the BMW world suggests) and b) the Shark for the MINI was carefully developed and tested.
FYI, I am still very happy with the drivability and throttle response with the Shark software.
BTW, the Shark software DID NOT change the Yo-Yo-ing. Also this car makes tons of power when the temp outside falls to 30F or less, just can't get any grip at this temp.
BTW, the Shark software DID NOT change the Yo-Yo-ing. Also this car makes tons of power when the temp outside falls to 30F or less, just can't get any grip at this temp.
>>FYI, I am still very happy with the drivability and throttle response with the Shark software.
>>
>>BTW, the Shark software DID NOT change the Yo-Yo-ing. Also this car makes tons of power when the temp outside falls to 30F or less, just can't get any grip at this temp.
i agree, can't catch traction to save my life when i'm meating on it
and yes i have taken it to bouncing off the rev limiter and not a single issue
>>
>>BTW, the Shark software DID NOT change the Yo-Yo-ing. Also this car makes tons of power when the temp outside falls to 30F or less, just can't get any grip at this temp.
i agree, can't catch traction to save my life when i'm meating on it
and yes i have taken it to bouncing off the rev limiter and not a single issue
>>
Well, maybe it's not wrong... but it apparently doesn't always tell the whole story, and it can sure be fooled.
I just got a Shark Injector for my 2004 MCS, and carefully following the instructions hooked up my rather macho, brand new 2/40/200 amp Sears battery charger (Model 200.71230) in the 40 amp mode (showing about 10-15 amps charge on the charger's meter) and left it to charge for about 30 minutes. Tried the Shark Injector, but got the "123" code. Continued charging for another 30 minutes, with the same result. Voltage at the "jump" terminal was about 15 volts with the charger on, so low voltage didn't seem to be the issue. I even tried kicking it up to the 200 amp "start" mode (about 40 amps charge indicated) for a bit... the dash lights got real bright, but still the same "123" story.
I was about to write a strongly-worded e-mail about what I thought of this thing, when I noticed (back at the 40 amp setting) that my side marker lights and rear interior light were flickering very dimly (even though they were turned off). I wondered if the half-wave rectified DC in the charger was "noisy" enough to both flicker the lights and fool the Shark Injector into showing a "123" code. I switched the charger to the 2 amp "trickle" setting, and the flickering stopped. Figuring that the battery had to be fully charged by now, I tried the Shark Injector with the charger at this 2 amp setting... and it worked fine, with no error codes.
Dan
123 has nothing to do with "at a later time" and everything to do with BATTERY VOLTAGE. The Shark Injector doesn't guess.. in fact, if your DVOM or Battery Charger tells you that the battery is "charged" but the Injector says "123", feel free to throw out your DVOM and Charger.
EACH Injector is calibrated to a NIST-traceable standard to an accuracy of well within 1%. In other words, it isn't wrong
EACH Injector is calibrated to a NIST-traceable standard to an accuracy of well within 1%. In other words, it isn't wrong
I just got a Shark Injector for my 2004 MCS, and carefully following the instructions hooked up my rather macho, brand new 2/40/200 amp Sears battery charger (Model 200.71230) in the 40 amp mode (showing about 10-15 amps charge on the charger's meter) and left it to charge for about 30 minutes. Tried the Shark Injector, but got the "123" code. Continued charging for another 30 minutes, with the same result. Voltage at the "jump" terminal was about 15 volts with the charger on, so low voltage didn't seem to be the issue. I even tried kicking it up to the 200 amp "start" mode (about 40 amps charge indicated) for a bit... the dash lights got real bright, but still the same "123" story.
I was about to write a strongly-worded e-mail about what I thought of this thing, when I noticed (back at the 40 amp setting) that my side marker lights and rear interior light were flickering very dimly (even though they were turned off). I wondered if the half-wave rectified DC in the charger was "noisy" enough to both flicker the lights and fool the Shark Injector into showing a "123" code. I switched the charger to the 2 amp "trickle" setting, and the flickering stopped. Figuring that the battery had to be fully charged by now, I tried the Shark Injector with the charger at this 2 amp setting... and it worked fine, with no error codes.
Dan
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
eatsleepautox
MINIs & Minis for Sale
6
Oct 30, 2015 06:46 AM



