I've heard you should check 'em every 5k miles if you have aftermarket plugs.

 

I would get my car towed to the shop and let them fix it. A pro can do a heli-coil by heavily greasing the tool before cutting the new threads so the shards of metal sticks to the tool. Still, if you mess up it will cost you big bucks....a tow might be 50-100$ and the shop might fix it for free. Just do the cost/benifit...if you only have one chance to get it right...it is time to pay a pro.

 

I called the shop, they said if the car has made it from July until now, then they must have torqued it right.

I got a free oil change from that shop, as part of a promotion, which also included an inspection. I didn't specifically ask them to retorque my spark plugs. The shop works through word of mouth so that's why they offer the promotion.

I've only gone about 5k miles since they were checked by that shop, so I'm wondering if they really did torque it wrong or not.

 

If the head was warm when they put them in....a million if's...at this point it doesn't matter too much IMO. What counts is limiting dammage and getting your car on the road. You have so much to loose $$ wise if you try to do the coil yourself and it goes wrong...possibly a few months or miles from now. I would let someone who knows what they are doing do the coil, and not try to learn on my car. Some plugs are known for loosening up...Denso's come to mind...from reading a few threads a while back...they don't even list mini on their wbsite anymore as a car they fit. Who knows why...threads are a standard item, it just happens. The shop that installed them, if they do good work, and are close might be worth giving a second shot....then again....use you gut and I guess you have some descesions to make. Good Luck. Hope you can get motoring again real soon!

PS spark plug tourqe is not something I would expect a shop of most any specality to check without very specfic instructions...even then I would expect to get a bit of a smirk...a MINI shop maybe not since it is a known problem, but most any other type, they might be like...ah-uh...

 

Is there any benefit to installing Brisk plugs in Just-a-Cooper? Fuel/Air mixture won't be as dense as in the turbos, which is what Brisk says they are designing for.

 

Love your tag line.....

The Short List.... I too am getting there

 

If you don't mind me asking, where did you get your DS12S? How much did you pay?

 

I purchased the plugs from Alta for $38 during a 17% off sale. I believe the plugs are normally about $46 for a set of four.

 

Thanks, I'll check that out.

 

Interested in hearing what you guys can say to this

 

Should we be using the DR12YS or DR12S. i have seen both numbers, and it seems they have both come from alta. one has a projected tip and tapered ground electrode and one has a non-projected tip and cutback ground electrode according to the brisk site. Not sure if it matters but it seems alta is shipping them interchangeably. here is the info from the brisk site.

BRISK Silver Racing DR12S Spark Plug DR12S 14mm thread, 3/4"(19mm) reach, 5/8'(16mm) hex, gasket seat, non-projected tip, RESISTOR, fine wire 1.5mm Silver center el., cut-back ground electrode

BRISK Silver RacingDR12YS Spark Plug DR12YS 14mm thread, 3/4"(19mm) reach, 5/8'(16mm) hex, gasket seat, projected tip, resistor, fine wire 1.5mm Silver center el., tapered ground electrode.

 

 

http://www.briskracing.com/content/turbo.php

http://www.briskracing.com/content/advantages.php

 

got a question...i have the 4 prong brisk plugs in my car and id like to replace them with an identical set....i got them from jan but i cant remember the part number as he doesnt have any instock...i think they are the DOR14LGS...i have a 15% pulley/rmw cam/header/tune...any ideas?i just got back from afghan and its been awhile since my car had a good tune up so im wiping the slate clean and starting over

 

DOR14LGS should be the same plug as you have.

 

does anyone have the DOR14LGS-T in stock?i tried to get some from brisk direct but they want 30+bucks for shipping on something that weights less than half a pound

 

Have been using the plugs for 2 weeks now. WOW, the engine likes them. Silky smooth and it was already silky smooth, or so I thought. No hesitation on take off or idle. Not a huge improvement on fuel efficiency, maybe 2 to 1 mpg. Response is amazing. Love them. Wish I had them earlier.

Bomboasy

 

I have had brisk plugs in for about 15 000km, didn't notice much of a difference at all with them over OEM plugs.

I also did the 15% pulley at the same time though...

 

So what is the best plug to use with a 15% pulley?

Will the same plug still work if a 2% crank pulley is added later?

 

Is everyone TQing them to the 20 ft/lb oem specs? With or without antiseize?

 

The bigger question is, do you use OE spec torque?

Not all washer seals are created equally. OE assumes that you are using OE Bosch plugs. Some plugs, Denso ( had pleanty of race experience with these ), needs more crush on the gasket than either NGK or Bosch otherwise the plug will losen, some sooner, some latter.......
In the FWIW department: This is what NGK says http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_su...tion/index.asp

 

"Brisk" >> According to a friend of mine here in Oregon who"s HEAVILY "into" full on race bikes got their START as a motorcycle plug that was / is VERY effective and has now since branched out into the automotive world and bringing THEIR technology with them. The big time cycle guys SWEAR by them. I've been running them now for app a year in what has morphed into basically a test vehicle for ALL kinds of "innovations". Though the mileage I'll admit IS very low since the install, I've got nothing but praise for them. They've been TORTURED & have come thru w / flying colors. Startup as opposed to the NGK's IS definitely "startling" (excuse pun!) Plug "burn" is extremely consistant and "telling". Also the difference / confusion with the Mini application is the DR12S is for supercharged application and the DR12YS==NON-supercharged . This according to the "lips of brisk"~~~~GREAT PLUG~~~Just make SURE you've got the right plug for the HEAD that you're running ; as these ARE different if they're after-market & FOLLOW the TORQUE specs including a "light" coating of anti sieze on the threads~~~~ OBEY

 

My Brisk DR12S started to misfire after only 8,000 kms during hard acceleration. I replaced it with my old NGK BKR 7EIX Iridiums (10,000 kms on them and taken out June 2008) and solved the misfire. I use 0.034 inch gap. Bad batch? sorry but no more Brisk for me.

 

Just replaced my tired OEM plugs (79K miles) with Brisk.

The car is noticeably smoother, more than I expected.

And the price was excellent too, thanks Jan.

 

These perform horribly in my 07 with drop in filter/downpipe/unichip. I replaced the originals with the brisk plugs, gapped them to oem spec, and as soon as I built boost it would backfire like a jalopy. I called alta and they said to gap them down to .018-.020 so I tried .020. I would say it was about 50% better. Brought them down to .017 and even better but it still isn't 100%. They aren't as smooth under WOT and throttle response seems off by a hair. So a new set of oem plugs will be going back in. To me, the fact that they need half the gap of the ngk just shows that the ngk is the more efficient conductor. The originals with 46k of hard driving still performed much much better.