Drivetrain RMW Tune in Dallas OCT 17/18
A good question! I can only share my recent (this week) experience: I had just less than 1/2 hole showing on a 23000 mile belt (the original). I swapped it for the Jan recommended 535 belt and now I can now see the entire hole (note these holes are not circular, but elongated like an 0, not an O).
This suggests that my original belt *might* have been slipping, but I cannot see any change in boost (with my ScanGuageII) so maybe it was OK. I changed it because:
1. It's recommended for a dyno tune
2. What's happening at 6500 rpm is different than at 4000rpm
3. Swapping every 20k miles seems like good insurance.
and...the swap was easy!
This suggests that my original belt *might* have been slipping, but I cannot see any change in boost (with my ScanGuageII) so maybe it was OK. I changed it because:
1. It's recommended for a dyno tune
2. What's happening at 6500 rpm is different than at 4000rpm
3. Swapping every 20k miles seems like good insurance.
and...the swap was easy!
Got word back on running the DE Sunday only.
Cost is a little more than 1/2 of the full event at $150 for the day. You'll get 4 sessions with an instructor. The event runs all day, we'll need to be there by 7.30 AM I figure and will end around 4 - 4.30. Location is about an hour north west of Plano in the hopping not even 1 traffic light town of Slidel, TX. It's off 35 for those looking on how to get back home after. There will be other MINI's there that are running both days. This is a BMW-CCA santioned event. They are real safe with the focus being on education.
Please contact me ASAP if you want to run as the registration for us is a little wonky being are doing 1 day.
Cost is a little more than 1/2 of the full event at $150 for the day. You'll get 4 sessions with an instructor. The event runs all day, we'll need to be there by 7.30 AM I figure and will end around 4 - 4.30. Location is about an hour north west of Plano in the hopping not even 1 traffic light town of Slidel, TX. It's off 35 for those looking on how to get back home after. There will be other MINI's there that are running both days. This is a BMW-CCA santioned event. They are real safe with the focus being on education.
Please contact me ASAP if you want to run as the registration for us is a little wonky being are doing 1 day.
A good question! I can only share my recent (this week) experience: I had just less than 1/2 hole showing on a 23000 mile belt (the original). I swapped it for the Jan recommended 535 belt and now I can now see the entire hole (note these holes are not circular, but elongated like an 0, not an O).
This suggests that my original belt *might* have been slipping, but I cannot see any change in boost (with my ScanGuageII) so maybe it was OK. I changed it because:
1. It's recommended for a dyno tune
2. What's happening at 6500 rpm is different than at 4000rpm
3. Swapping every 20k miles seems like good insurance.
and...the swap was easy!
This suggests that my original belt *might* have been slipping, but I cannot see any change in boost (with my ScanGuageII) so maybe it was OK. I changed it because:
1. It's recommended for a dyno tune
2. What's happening at 6500 rpm is different than at 4000rpm
3. Swapping every 20k miles seems like good insurance.
and...the swap was easy!
Do you know of a DIY instructions/link for replacing the belt? It is obviously much easier than the pulley swap.
How easy is it?
Found it in the Bentley, seems to be pretty easy alright. The only real trcky part is depressing the tensioner without the tensioner tool.
Last edited by mini_racer; Sep 21, 2008 at 09:34 PM.
Dr,
Do you know of a DIY instructions/link for replacing the belt? It is obviously much easier than the pulley swap.
How easy is it?
Found it in the Bentley, seems to be pretty easy alright. The only real trcky part is depressing the tensioner without the tensioner tool.
Do you know of a DIY instructions/link for replacing the belt? It is obviously much easier than the pulley swap.
How easy is it?
Found it in the Bentley, seems to be pretty easy alright. The only real trcky part is depressing the tensioner without the tensioner tool.
I couldnt find an EXACT DIY but I think you may be able to see how it is done in K-huevos DIY on supercharger pulley install....
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/foru...splay.php?f=16
Have a great time at the tune guys!!! Im still trying to get over it.
I have several pry bars that could do the trick for me. I am just going to have to get in there and play with it a bit, I am sure I can figure something out as I did not use a tensioner tool for the pulley swap.
And no, I can't see that particular how to, can see a few others though. No big deal, I think I know what I need, and the initials are not BFH.
We will miss you at the tune event. Stay in touch with Gnatster in case your situation changes and can see your way clear to attending. He may have a slot available, even up to the day of the event. You never know.
And no, I can't see that particular how to, can see a few others though. No big deal, I think I know what I need, and the initials are not BFH.
We will miss you at the tune event. Stay in touch with Gnatster in case your situation changes and can see your way clear to attending. He may have a slot available, even up to the day of the event. You never know.
Oil Service Prep for a tune
Guys,
Given the extreme conditions of a dyno tune, meaning plenty of WOT. Are there some special considerations for an oil service? And some of this we have already covered.
1. Oil Level: The Bentley says 4.5 qts, but I have seen in some of the how to's where 5qts is recommended. So, do we stick with 5qts. for a tune? Maybe a bit ****, but are there parasitic losses with too much oil?
2. Relatively fresh oil, a max mileage has not benn stated, but I am guessing no more than 5K miles to be safe?
3. Viscosity, should we always go with 5/30, or is 5/20 ok for a cool weather tune? Is thicker low performing, meaning lower hp/tq (again, may be splitting hairs here)?
4. Brand, well I guess many have their own preference, and I guess Castrol is a good place to start. But if there is a consensus, that would be awesome. So, what brand?
5. Filter: Must we only use OEM, or are there any other other viable alternatives (i.e. Napa)? Are there any you want to avoid for the high stress of a tune, like maybe Purolator?
Ok, where are our Lubrication Experts? And thanks for the PM discussion on this topic earlier K-huevo !
Given the extreme conditions of a dyno tune, meaning plenty of WOT. Are there some special considerations for an oil service? And some of this we have already covered.
1. Oil Level: The Bentley says 4.5 qts, but I have seen in some of the how to's where 5qts is recommended. So, do we stick with 5qts. for a tune? Maybe a bit ****, but are there parasitic losses with too much oil?
2. Relatively fresh oil, a max mileage has not benn stated, but I am guessing no more than 5K miles to be safe?
3. Viscosity, should we always go with 5/30, or is 5/20 ok for a cool weather tune? Is thicker low performing, meaning lower hp/tq (again, may be splitting hairs here)?
4. Brand, well I guess many have their own preference, and I guess Castrol is a good place to start. But if there is a consensus, that would be awesome. So, what brand?
5. Filter: Must we only use OEM, or are there any other other viable alternatives (i.e. Napa)? Are there any you want to avoid for the high stress of a tune, like maybe Purolator?
Ok, where are our Lubrication Experts? And thanks for the PM discussion on this topic earlier K-huevo !
Last edited by mini_racer; Sep 23, 2008 at 04:01 PM.
JMHO?
1. I use 5 quarts with a filter change. It's always spot on with a filter change.
2. Fresh oil - I just changed mine, since we'll be at the track Saturday and Sunday. I'd say less than 1k miles, personally.
3. I like 5W30.
4. Royal Purple, FTW! In 5W30...
5. Mann and Hengst are both good - I would NOT use WIX. You can get package deals on eBay on Mann or Hengst on the cheap.
1. I use 5 quarts with a filter change. It's always spot on with a filter change.
2. Fresh oil - I just changed mine, since we'll be at the track Saturday and Sunday. I'd say less than 1k miles, personally.
3. I like 5W30.
4. Royal Purple, FTW! In 5W30...
5. Mann and Hengst are both good - I would NOT use WIX. You can get package deals on eBay on Mann or Hengst on the cheap.
any spots still available? 
IS getting a tune when you are still going to add mods ok? Is a tune without buying the 380cc injectors ok?
?

IS getting a tune when you are still going to add mods ok? Is a tune without buying the 380cc injectors ok?
?
Last edited by mdbsat; Sep 27, 2008 at 06:59 PM.
Just changed my oil and filter, and flushed the cooling system and refilled with BMW coolant. The belt looks good. Got new sneakers since I found a piece of something on the highway and destroyed one of my wonderful runflats. No more of those. The boxes they came in prolly ride smoother. But I'm excited to get the big injectors installed and get the tune!
I think we all need to keep crossing the items off the list as you are doing.
One thing we should all be aware of is proper fuel selection. The fuel you are running for the tune is critical. Meaning that you should NOT go and fill-up with uber high octane fuel or add octane boosters, etc. for the tune just to maximize the dyno numbers. Yes, you will get your best possible number, but unless you plan to get that same fuel for every fill-up, the ECU will routinely yank the timing and you will end up with a tune that is not so tuned!
Your tune fuel should be the same, or as close to it as possible, as your daily fuel.
One thing we should all be aware of is proper fuel selection. The fuel you are running for the tune is critical. Meaning that you should NOT go and fill-up with uber high octane fuel or add octane boosters, etc. for the tune just to maximize the dyno numbers. Yes, you will get your best possible number, but unless you plan to get that same fuel for every fill-up, the ECU will routinely yank the timing and you will end up with a tune that is not so tuned!
Your tune fuel should be the same, or as close to it as possible, as your daily fuel.
Last edited by mini_racer; Sep 30, 2008 at 06:22 PM.
Thanks mini. I would have never thought of that about the gas. Honestly I know so little about what I am even going to that it is kinda sad
That being said at least I will learn when I get there!! Cant wait.
So I should do an oil change shortly before the tune and use the same octane gas as I normally do. Got it.
That being said at least I will learn when I get there!! Cant wait.
So I should do an oil change shortly before the tune and use the same octane gas as I normally do. Got it.
Friday is mostly locals. I expect the out of town people will begin filtering on Friday. Jan will be in late Thursday evening.
Near the site there are 1/2 doz places.
See
http://maps.google.com/maps?near=601...8,0.15398&z=13
I live 7 miles due west from the site.
Near the site there are 1/2 doz places.
See
http://maps.google.com/maps?near=601...8,0.15398&z=13
I live 7 miles due west from the site.
My little dose of LITHIUM
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,435
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From: Albuquerque New Mexico
I found a hotel nearby--in a group of about 10! Literally less than a mile. I will be getting in sometime Friday evening after 650 miles of hell from Alb.NM I'll need some rest before my 8am injection of WHP...
Will head out early AM on Sunday --driving 650 miles in reverse is going to be hard!
Will head out early AM on Sunday --driving 650 miles in reverse is going to be hard!
Doc, Amarillo to Dallas is the worst part...275 miles of flat, featureless, mostly 4 lane divided highway (US 287) with an occasional town every 20-30 miles to crawl through at 35-40mph. These towns main source of revenue is speeding fines.
Like they say, once you are out of TX you are halfway to anyplace.
Like they say, once you are out of TX you are halfway to anyplace.
My little dose of LITHIUM
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,435
Likes: 2
From: Albuquerque New Mexico
Thanks for the head's up! I'll be leaving enough money in Plano Texas not to want to leave any elsewhere. Are these radar-friendly speed traps, or something I have to be awake for?
So, back to the need for injectors being swapped. I do not know what scaling means. Is that something permanent? Maybe the better (but more expensive) thing to do is have the place the dyno's at swap them in? I'm hardly made of money. I have the tools and the time to swap them. Just trying to get a feel for what can be done....


