Drivetrain Radiator Hoses
Radiator Hoses
Okedoke at 73k miles i think its about time to replace the t-stat and radiator hoses so i have these questions:
Ive pretty much decided between the Alta and Samco hoses...any thoughts...pros/cons and what are people running and any problems...
my next question is this...anyone who is running the m7 t-stat...where do you live and have you had any problems with it
thanks much
Ive pretty much decided between the Alta and Samco hoses...any thoughts...pros/cons and what are people running and any problems...
my next question is this...anyone who is running the m7 t-stat...where do you live and have you had any problems with it
thanks much
I use the samco hoses. I have no idea what the Alta ones are like.
If you use the samco hoses make sure you DO NOT use a spanner on the flats on the bleed screw. Many people do this, and its fine to start with, but eventually the pipe will split. Do it tight by hand only. No need for anythign more.
If you use the samco hoses make sure you DO NOT use a spanner on the flats on the bleed screw. Many people do this, and its fine to start with, but eventually the pipe will split. Do it tight by hand only. No need for anythign more.
Besides a color change, is there any real benifit to getting the non-rubber hoses? I realize they will not crack or bulge, but your stock ones did last 73,000 miles, they are still in good shape, right? Ok, so maybe longevity is the benifit, but still, does one hose type flow easier and improve efficiency over another? Are the Samco hoses any cheaper?
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Its not "bad for the motor" (term motor BTW is electric we have engines in most of are Minis that require the use of a thermostat
)There have been some Tuning companies that indicate there is a situation with the engine not getting to operating temperatures and hinders getting a good flash done? Also it has been posted that running a cooler T-stat may cause the engine light and to pull a code. Neither harm anything in the engine. M7 I believe uses a regular T-stant CNC cut to fit the MINI . Also to date BMW/Mini does not offer the seal/gasket separate. So be careful when changing the T-stant not to damage the seal/gasket.
The Alta Hoses or others that use silicone not only do they look great but there are many other benefits in using silicone over rubber hoses. To name a couple, higher heat rating, chemical protection higher pressure rating etc. Rubber hoses has always been a less expensive to use and will not last as long. You don't hear to many times of blowing a silicone hose out on a weekend run!
Last edited by Nitrominis; Aug 8, 2008 at 05:13 PM. Reason: deleted a line
The biggest reason for higher degree thermostsats is for emissions.
So then when you say "a hotter engine runs more efficiently" it is the emission not performance. I suppose if you are looking for best gas mileage and lowest emissions then stay with the OEM T-stat.
I live in Ca on the coast the temp average about 70 and I have run an M7 for at least 3 years prior to changing to a highflow pressure balanced 160 thermostat for the last 2. Thats 5 years running a cooler then OEM t-stat with no harm to the engine.The ONLY issue I get is during the cooler months my creature comforts are not as cozy warm.
You might want to check these out. although new for MOSS they have been around for a few years. Work very well and look good also.
http://www.mossmini.com/Shop/ViewPro...eIndexID=65071

Gates' PowerGrip clamps are an idea long overdue. Unlike worm style metal clamps that have a tendency to loosen for no reason. Or worse yet, use their razor like edges to cut a gash in a radiator hose leaving you stranded. PowerGrip clamps are made from a heat shrinkable thermoplastic material that provides a strong and dynamic seal. What's more, they are completely resistant to all automotive fluids. For best performance, be sure to select the PowerGrip clamp that is closest to the OD of the hose once it is installed. Installation requires a heat gun (a 1000 watt hair dryer will work) to shrink the clamp to size. To remove an installed PowerGrip clamp, cut it with a soldering iron, or use the PowerGrip cutting tool. Use of any other cutting tool may damage the hose.
http://www.mossmini.com/Shop/ViewPro...eIndexID=65071

Gates' PowerGrip clamps are an idea long overdue. Unlike worm style metal clamps that have a tendency to loosen for no reason. Or worse yet, use their razor like edges to cut a gash in a radiator hose leaving you stranded. PowerGrip clamps are made from a heat shrinkable thermoplastic material that provides a strong and dynamic seal. What's more, they are completely resistant to all automotive fluids. For best performance, be sure to select the PowerGrip clamp that is closest to the OD of the hose once it is installed. Installation requires a heat gun (a 1000 watt hair dryer will work) to shrink the clamp to size. To remove an installed PowerGrip clamp, cut it with a soldering iron, or use the PowerGrip cutting tool. Use of any other cutting tool may damage the hose.
You might want to check these out. although new for MOSS they have been around for a few years. Work very well and look good also.
http://www.mossmini.com/Shop/ViewPro...eIndexID=65071

Gates' PowerGrip clamps are an idea long overdue. Unlike worm style metal clamps that have a tendency to loosen for no reason. Or worse yet, use their razor like edges to cut a gash in a radiator hose leaving you stranded. PowerGrip clamps are made from a heat shrinkable thermoplastic material that provides a strong and dynamic seal. What's more, they are completely resistant to all automotive fluids. For best performance, be sure to select the PowerGrip clamp that is closest to the OD of the hose once it is installed. Installation requires a heat gun (a 1000 watt hair dryer will work) to shrink the clamp to size. To remove an installed PowerGrip clamp, cut it with a soldering iron, or use the PowerGrip cutting tool. Use of any other cutting tool may damage the hose.
http://www.mossmini.com/Shop/ViewPro...eIndexID=65071

Gates' PowerGrip clamps are an idea long overdue. Unlike worm style metal clamps that have a tendency to loosen for no reason. Or worse yet, use their razor like edges to cut a gash in a radiator hose leaving you stranded. PowerGrip clamps are made from a heat shrinkable thermoplastic material that provides a strong and dynamic seal. What's more, they are completely resistant to all automotive fluids. For best performance, be sure to select the PowerGrip clamp that is closest to the OD of the hose once it is installed. Installation requires a heat gun (a 1000 watt hair dryer will work) to shrink the clamp to size. To remove an installed PowerGrip clamp, cut it with a soldering iron, or use the PowerGrip cutting tool. Use of any other cutting tool may damage the hose.
yes that is a thought but ......how often did you have to remove the hoses in 72k? It is the best cheap insurance to both totally prevent any leaking at the hose end and they will not damage the hose in anyway like clamps can do.
I have had these on my other cars. but not yet on my mini. I am still working on the electric water pump and removing and installing the hoses to often. but they will be on soon enough.
It is combustion temperatures not coolant? And even the combustion you want to control how hot it gets. See many posts on water/meth systems.
...The biggest reason for higher degree thermostsats is for emissions.
So then when you say "a hotter engine runs more efficiently" it is the emission not performance. I suppose if you are looking for best gas mileage and lowest emissions then stay with the OEM T-stat.
...The biggest reason for higher degree thermostsats is for emissions.
So then when you say "a hotter engine runs more efficiently" it is the emission not performance. I suppose if you are looking for best gas mileage and lowest emissions then stay with the OEM T-stat.

As for motorcycles I run 100% water and Redline water wetter. Also drill extra relief holes in the thermostat flange to allow more flow when the thermostat valve is closed. This helps lower coolant temp and reduce high/low temperature fluctuation. This is also the standard on how I modify my minis thermostat.
did you not say that you got 73k on the OEM?
yes that is a thought but ......how often did you have to remove the hoses in 72k? It is the best cheap insurance to both totally prevent any leaking at the hose end and they will not damage the hose in anyway like clamps can do.
I have had these on my other cars. but not yet on my mini. I am still working on the electric water pump and removing and installing the hoses to often. but they will be on soon enough.
yes that is a thought but ......how often did you have to remove the hoses in 72k? It is the best cheap insurance to both totally prevent any leaking at the hose end and they will not damage the hose in anyway like clamps can do.
I have had these on my other cars. but not yet on my mini. I am still working on the electric water pump and removing and installing the hoses to often. but they will be on soon enough.
Nabeshin; not to stick my oar in the water where it doesn't need to go, but from a technical/electrical/engineering point of view, it's "electric motors" and "gasoline engines". At least that's what was beaten into my head by my teachers. Although, the two are used so interchangeably that I don't think it really matters anymore. My inner geek just twinges a little when it hears the terms used incorrectly.
I'll tell my inner geek to shut up now.
I'll tell my inner geek to shut up now.
Nabeshin; not to stick my oar in the water where it doesn't need to go, but from a technical/electrical/engineering point of view, it's "electric motors" and "gasoline engines". At least that's what was beaten into my head by my teachers. Although, the two are used so interchangeably that I don't think it really matters anymore. My inner geek just twinges a little when it hears the terms used incorrectly.
I'll tell my inner geek to shut up now.
I'll tell my inner geek to shut up now.
holy sh** that why I make the comments about it. Most never understand! In fact if we used the tern incorrectly written even if the content of the question was answered correctly it was marked as wrong.
nabeshinI was talking about your comment on Engine vs Motor. The two terms, although distinct, can be ambiguous


