Drivetrain pulleys?
pulleys?
alrite yes i am a newb. dont get mad for stupid questions, yes i know "it has been posted many times before just look" this just makes it easier on myself, and gives you something to do ha
but anyway, im catching alotta wind on "you need to change the valves if you upgrade the pulley" is this true? and fi not what % pulley would you guys recommend? who makes the better of the pulleys? (or are they all the same) and reliability factor....give me the truth
but anyway, im catching alotta wind on "you need to change the valves if you upgrade the pulley" is this true? and fi not what % pulley would you guys recommend? who makes the better of the pulleys? (or are they all the same) and reliability factor....give me the truth
We've been discussing 15%,17% and 19% pulleies for years now, and this is the first I have heard regarding the valves. Clearly, a non-issue.
Alot of people will claim that more reduction produces more boost. At lower rpm, yes, but in the case of 17 and 19% pullies, at 7000 rpm the SC speed will exceed the blower's capacity and actually cause the boost to decline as the revs increase.
JCW uses an 11.8% pulley. A 15% pulley will continue to increase boost up to 7000 rpm. 17 and 19 % pullies will feel stronger at lower rpm, but will lose hp at they approach redline.
Regardless of the pulley you switch to, you will need to re-map with a reputable tune (GIAC, LDG, etc.) to get full advantage of the new pulley size.
Alot of people will claim that more reduction produces more boost. At lower rpm, yes, but in the case of 17 and 19% pullies, at 7000 rpm the SC speed will exceed the blower's capacity and actually cause the boost to decline as the revs increase.
JCW uses an 11.8% pulley. A 15% pulley will continue to increase boost up to 7000 rpm. 17 and 19 % pullies will feel stronger at lower rpm, but will lose hp at they approach redline.
Regardless of the pulley you switch to, you will need to re-map with a reputable tune (GIAC, LDG, etc.) to get full advantage of the new pulley size.
Last edited by lhoboy; Apr 1, 2008 at 08:16 PM.
I would guess 90% of Mini modders started off with a 15% pulley and that is all. There is no need to make any other changes . You can of course but you do not NEED to do it . A tune might make more sence after you have added other hardware say a intake or header etc. Get the pulley and enjoy that for awhile and then you will have a better idea of where to go with your mod program.
I would guess 90% of Mini modders started off with a 15% pulley and that is all. There is no need to make any other changes . You can of course but you do not NEED to do it . A tune might make more sence after you have added other hardware say a intake or header etc. Get the pulley and enjoy that for awhile and then you will have a better idea of where to go with your mod program.
Your car is going to try and breath alot harder, the stock intake is a bottle neck at high RPM's. Actually causing your car to lose power, cut out or lug/chug a bit. If you don't drive foot to the floor you may never even notice, but i would still shove a cai on.
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trackster makes a good point. Don't do the tune until you've done all your mods. But also don't be surprised if the tuner suggests you go back to stock on some of your mods. There is a lot of stuff out there that can make an improvement with the stock mappping, but ultimately may not be as good as stock when the reprogramming is done. You have to have a matching system throughout. Get advice from a reputable professional tuner. Don't rely on us backyard mechanics. Here on the East Coast you should talk to John at Behe Performance or Eric at Helix. Their philosophies may be a bit different, but their results are outstanding.
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