Drivetrain Helix 17% + JCW Belt + Stock Crank Pulley
Helix 17% + JCW Belt + Stock Crank Pulley
Hello guys. I'm changing my stuck SC pulley to helix 17% one, as recommended, I'm changing the belt to the JCW one. Does this ensure no slippage? Shall I get a smaller belt?
I would run a smaller belt and do on my helix 17%.
Well, Jan is the one who recommended JCW belt on the 17% pulley.
I think you might have misunderstood, we never run that belt with a 17% pulley. The 535 should be right
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. And yes you were right, I've got the 535 belt Glad to hear everything made it there
let me know how it goes once you get it put together!
After the 17%...
Yeah sure I will. Jan, I'm going for your tune. Do you think I should do a dyno run before getting the tune, or shall I save my money, do your ECU tune then go for a dyno run? Do you need the dyno numbers before applying the ECU tune on cars?
How did you guys get the 060535 belt to fit???
if you absolutely have to loosen the idler pulley, so that its canted. with a few threads still in the hole. slip the belt on then screw the pulley back in. be careful not to strip threads. but that worked for me on my buddy's car, on my car i had no problem getting the 532 on.
Folks once used the 535 for both the 15% and the 17%....
But experience has proven the 532 works better with the 17%...a bit shorter...
You might need to have the tensioner pinned back, then get a 2nd person to PULL BACK A BIT ON THE TENSIONER TOOL....this last 1/4 inch of wiggle should let you thread it over the pulley....
You are much less likely with a nice tight belt like this to toss it from a bad tensioner damper or have it stretch to the point of squeezing or slipping. It just works better.
If you toss a 535 belt on...fine...should be changing it yearly or so with a 17% anyway....it is only a 25$ part at most.... And a 15 minute job if combined with a tire/wheel change.
OK, thanks for the info guys. I'll try squeezing that 532 belt on there one more time. Even with the age of this thread, I'm still surprised that if you go to WMW, Helix, or Craven's website...they are saying is a 539 for the 15% and 17% pulleys.
I'll try that trick with the idler....hopefully I can squeeze that 532 on.
I'll try that trick with the idler....hopefully I can squeeze that 532 on.
We should make a quick Sticky on belt part#'s and the pulleys they work best with. There are a ton of belt threads out there, but they're 90% people just blurting out random anecdotes with no backing information.
I know to an extent multiple sizes work on certain pulleys but, using the stock belt length we can do a simple calculation to find what length belt a 15%, 17%, 19%, etc, actually require. Math & stuff
I know to an extent multiple sizes work on certain pulleys but, using the stock belt length we can do a simple calculation to find what length belt a 15%, 17%, 19%, etc, actually require. Math & stuff
I would think that all of the companies that make and sell the pulleys would want to update all of their info....they all say use a 539 belt which I found out is way to loose. I think some company's (alta?) even supply a 539 belt in their kit. .....the 532 belt was a little tricky to get on, but once I used your trick of slipping it on the idler pulley last...it slid right on. It fits great....I'd say its the shortest belt that would work with a 17% pulley.
Yes, I agree that there needs to be a sticky on the correct size of belt to use with different sized pulleys, lots of bad info floating around out there.
Yes, I agree that there needs to be a sticky on the correct size of belt to use with different sized pulleys, lots of bad info floating around out there.
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