Drivetrain Swapping pulley between 15% and stock size
If I were to get a stock size pulley to fit over my P&D/Helix pulley hub how hard would it be to remove the existing pulley and swap the stock size one back on? Are we talking a similar proceedure of jacking up the engine etc like the original install or is it easier?
If I got back to stock size does this make me legal for SCCA STX class? Or does the fact that the pulley was changed, regarless of size make it illegal?
Paul
Great question. I would like to know the answer in case I need to switch back because of new smog test requirements ever changing in California. Any opinions if the 15% reduction pulley causes any emissions issues?
It is a several hour job for the inexperienced. See this How-To thread. The 15% pulley does cause it to run a little richer, too rich and it could damage your catalytic converter, but I think it's been mentioned in other threads that it is still at a safe level.
If it does cause an emmission problem the solution is to just vote Republican, damn Bush eliminated emissions inspections here in FL, now we have junk cars spewing stuff all over the roads.
_________________
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Einstein said E=MC2, I say S=MC2
If it does cause an emmission problem the solution is to just vote Republican, damn Bush eliminated emissions inspections here in FL, now we have junk cars spewing stuff all over the roads.
_________________
[img]albums/album25/akk.jpg[/img] VinceAndJessica.com
Einstein said E=MC2, I say S=MC2
If you have a 4mm allen key and the belt tensioner tool (about $45 at your local dealership), you can swap pulleys in about 30-45 minutes. Note that this is if you have the pulley already installed and you are swapping new pulleys onto the aftermarket hub.
BTW, the pulley runs the car slightly LEANER, but as you can read on this and other forums, these things run pig rich anyway. -Eric
BTW, the pulley runs the car slightly LEANER, but as you can read on this and other forums, these things run pig rich anyway. -Eric
>>If you have a 4mm allen key and the belt tensioner tool (about $45 at your local dealership), you can swap pulleys in about 30-45 minutes. Note that this is if you have the pulley already installed and you are swapping new pulleys onto the aftermarket hub.
>>
>>BTW, the pulley runs the car slightly LEANER, but as you can read on this and other forums, these things run pig rich anyway. -Eric
Hey Eric. Ya, I've already got your pulley. Don't tell me you've already forgotten us Canadians who drove all the way from Toronto.
Does the engine need to be jacked up at all, can the belt be loosened easily without jacking etc? Does it go like this:
Loosen Belt
Remove pulley from hub with allen key
replace pulley with stock size, tighten allen
tighten belt.
Does any jacking or removing of engine mounts etc have to take place?
Paul
>>
>>BTW, the pulley runs the car slightly LEANER, but as you can read on this and other forums, these things run pig rich anyway. -Eric
Hey Eric. Ya, I've already got your pulley. Don't tell me you've already forgotten us Canadians who drove all the way from Toronto.

Does the engine need to be jacked up at all, can the belt be loosened easily without jacking etc? Does it go like this:
Loosen Belt
Remove pulley from hub with allen key
replace pulley with stock size, tighten allen
tighten belt.
Does any jacking or removing of engine mounts etc have to take place?
Paul
Hey Paul:
Yes, I seem to have vague memory of you
, but at this point a vague memory is better than none.
This job is a bit of a pain in the a$$, because it is hard to reach the allen cap head bolts that fasten the pulley to the hub. Be patient and you'll get it done.
1. Before releasing the belt tension, loosen all of the allen cap head bolts with a 4mm allen key on the pulley just enough so that they have broken loose from the hub. It is easier if you crank the starter motor just long enough to turn the SC pulley over to reach the bolts that are the bottom.
2. Using the belt tensioner tool, release the belt tension and lock it into place with a medium gauge pick through the spring center bracket (you'll see what I mean).
3. Back out the cap head bolts from the pulley, rotating the pulley to get the best angle with your allen key.
4. Pull the pulley of the hub and slide the new one on the hub. Be sure when replacing the belt that it is correctly mounted on all engine accessories: check the AC compressor and crank pulley for proper alignment.
5. Snug tighten all of the cap head bolts evenly.
6. Release the belt tensioner.
7. Tightent all of the cap head bolts firmly, tightening the bolts on opposite sides in a star pattern until they are all very snug.
8. Lay a rude, noisy black patch down your peaceful cul-de-sac at about midnight.
-Eric
Yes, I seem to have vague memory of you
, but at this point a vague memory is better than none.This job is a bit of a pain in the a$$, because it is hard to reach the allen cap head bolts that fasten the pulley to the hub. Be patient and you'll get it done.
1. Before releasing the belt tension, loosen all of the allen cap head bolts with a 4mm allen key on the pulley just enough so that they have broken loose from the hub. It is easier if you crank the starter motor just long enough to turn the SC pulley over to reach the bolts that are the bottom.
2. Using the belt tensioner tool, release the belt tension and lock it into place with a medium gauge pick through the spring center bracket (you'll see what I mean).
3. Back out the cap head bolts from the pulley, rotating the pulley to get the best angle with your allen key.
4. Pull the pulley of the hub and slide the new one on the hub. Be sure when replacing the belt that it is correctly mounted on all engine accessories: check the AC compressor and crank pulley for proper alignment.
5. Snug tighten all of the cap head bolts evenly.
6. Release the belt tensioner.
7. Tightent all of the cap head bolts firmly, tightening the bolts on opposite sides in a star pattern until they are all very snug.
8. Lay a rude, noisy black patch down your peaceful cul-de-sac at about midnight.
-Eric
>>Hey Paul:
>>
>>Yes, I seem to have vague memory of you :smile: Now all I have to do is figure out if a stock size aftermarket pulley still procludes me from STX SOLO II. I know the 15% reduction does.
Cheers,
Paul
>>
>>Yes, I seem to have vague memory of you :smile: Now all I have to do is figure out if a stock size aftermarket pulley still procludes me from STX SOLO II. I know the 15% reduction does.
Cheers,
Paul
Trending Topics
SCCA has made a specific ruling regarding the 100% aftermarket pulley: it is allowed for STX. Thanks to Craig Garfield of the D.C. Region for petitioning the rules board. Their site is http://solo.wdcr-scca.org/home.htm. You may be able to contact Craig through that site if you have any further questions.
-Eric
-Eric
>>SCCA has made a specific ruling regarding the 100% aftermarket pulley: it is allowed for STX. Thanks to Craig Garfield of the D.C. Region for petitioning the rules board. Their site is http://solo.wdcr-scca.org/home.htm. You may be able to contact Craig through that site if you have any further questions.
>>
>>-Eric
Is that 100% aftermarket but in stock size or 15%? Thanks for the heads up!
Paul
>>
>>-Eric
Is that 100% aftermarket but in stock size or 15%? Thanks for the heads up!
Paul
>>The 15% pulley does cause it to run a little richer, too rich and it could damage your catalytic converter, but I think it's been mentioned in other threads that it is still at a safe level.
>>
No, the pulley lets more air into the engine thereby running it LEANER, but still rich as Eric of Helix pointed out. :smile:
>>
No, the pulley lets more air into the engine thereby running it LEANER, but still rich as Eric of Helix pointed out. :smile:
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