yes I have pistons... I did this knowing that 250 WHP or less wasn't what I was looking for... LOL.. so I just did the pistons...

that was the only thing I did besides the kit at that time. I would reccomend clutch/flywheel and LSD... if you have the factory LSD that's fine.

that should cover it... but I always say better to have more than not enough... but that is everything including the "turbo kit" and then performance head/LSD/clutchflywheel/FMIC/pistons/etc EVERYTHING

sure this is double what you will spend on a TC alone persay... but the benifit is huge... you have HP on tap.. turn up the boost.. or turn it down... you can make the same I am making on almost ten lbs less boost (with the same turbo) and won't need to run 100 octane to make 300 WHP which is ALOT for the mini

ha ha That's gotta be the best... glad someone else is out there

 

Thank you all for your comments~

I CAN spend around 5K...dont have so much money, but same time i have no mod at all with my MCS, and i wanted mod my MCS based on SC + TC power...to be able to hold all the maxium power...

u think this could be one of good way to mod my MCS?
u think just having TC with other stock parts will be ok as long as i dont push to maximum??

I would love to hear all your opinions~

 

yes... bang for the buck... hands down is the easiest way to make alot of power...

just keep the boost a 22 or lower... and watch the detonation in general.... proper IAT cooling is a must...

 

Tuls- did you lose the SC whine with the TC?

Or was it simply overpowered by the other/new power noises?

 

well I can still hear it coming through my charge pipes... especially with the FMIC.. ..but.. as a whole yes..it typically goes away.. replaced by a whole new symphany of sounds...

depending on the setup you can here it more... like DOMINICMINICOOPERS' TC you could hear the SC pretty clearly... but he had a very "quite" setup..

 

OK my next question. With the mods listed in my sig. I'm currenly running between 14-14.5 psi and approximately 215-220 whp. If I do consider going with TC what other parts would I need to change (besides putting in the TC) if anything and what would the total cost be approximately?

 

back to stock pulley... and need to check that dinan ECU flash... it can be very dangerous... maybe not but it needs to be checked into...

 

What would the HP gain be with the TC for my setup with those 2 issues resolved?

And if over 300whp wouldn't I need new pistons?

 

well first off have you accually dynoed your car? or are you just guessing 215-220? and the thing you will prolly notice more than anything is the low end TQ that's the real insanity of the TC.... also depending on your car you could get up there with out pistons... but I wouldn't count on it...

 

My supercharger is underdriven with the current setup so I can't hear it any more. That's okay, though, the turbo/blowoff valve noises are so much cooler: ssssssSsSsSSSSSSSSS....WOOOOSH!

 

As others have said, I'm running turbo only. I went this route for various reasons, but mainly, I wanted the bigger numbers and ease of running pump gas without the concerns of detonation and BOOM! with the engine. Fireballed designed my kit and did the turbo install. I did the bottom end and various other parts myself......

With your budget you are gonna be better off TC'd anyway. As Tuls said, you can get a turbo "kit" for that price range without install, but no way can you get the other stuff done that you really need like LSD, clutch, head, IC, gauges and monitoring equipment, etc, etc.

I have not, nor do I plan to dyno, but running pump gas and 22psi probably around 280whp all day long. Getting 22-25mpg with the setup. On rac egas and 28-30psi it is easily over 400whp. We went on a drive last weekend with a bunch of the BWM guys and a tuned E46 M3 is no challenge now. Really the only thing that could run with my setup was a turbo .:R32 putting down 500 all wheel and over 25k in the engine alone. Certainly was fun being one of the 2 fastest cars out there with 30+ vehicles, and sure suprises a lot of the boner muscle car owners you run into around town.

PM me if you want more answers or details. Kalbone is also running turbo only with a GT2876 setup, mine's a 2871rs. Spool around 35000rpms and hits HARD over 4000rpms. I am still trying to find tires that can hold a 3rd gear pull on the highway without lighting up like crazy. LOL!!

 

Not to be noob, but twin-charge? Is that running with a supercharger and a turbo as well?

 

Yup. And if i understand it right the turbo ends up creating most of the boost and the super just sort of "sits there". But i really need to look into more before i can say for sure.

 

Yes, see post #13 it has already been explained.

TC = Twin Charged.

 

Hey, I've got some questions for you about your kit...Can I see some pics of it? I'm in the planning process right now. I haven't even gotten the car yet lol, but it's inevitable. Everything I own has either a larger turbo or gets turbo'd. I don't really like the idea of twin charge I feel it will create more problems then with one form of FI. If you get a chance I would love to see some shots of you setup and maybe some of the issues you hit as well.
-Keith

 

 

Sure. I should get a chance this weekend to take some engine bay shots. As far as he engine build itself check out my thread on it:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ght=fireballed

That details all the work I did with my buddies. Unfortunately I didn't get a lot of shots of the work Brian and Hubie did as I wanted to stay out of their way 'cause we were on a tight time schedule and various other reasons. Suffice to say they did it in the course of a Friday and a Saturday lasting until 4am Sunday morning so I could be back on the road to AZ for work Monday.

As far as problems I have had zero functional problems. The car runs fine around town as my daily. There are some quirks to it. Primarily is when the ECU sensors that are still functional try to offset the Apexi NEO I am running for fuel management I get a bit of a yo-yo effect. Not bad but noticable at low speeds (under 25mph). The only other real issue is idle and stall when slowing to stop when the A/C is running. Unless I clutch at under 2k rpms it wants to stall. This is in spite of richening up the AFRs down low. Minor, and more of learning how to drive the car than a real "problem". My A/C works just about as well as any MINIs does still, even with the AtW heat exchanger mounted in front of the condenser.

Other than those minor things, which should be addressed with some future changes in the works, it is a very driveable car. My wife uses it from time to time and has no problems with it at all. I guess that may be the biggest telling statement about how nice it drives 'cause she usually drives a Mk5 GTI with a DSG tranny and all the bells and whistles. Plus it's great to hear my son in the back seat saying "let's go fast daddy!!"

 

Did Fireballed do a re-tune for you? Also are you venting or recurculating? Have you actually wideband the car to see what your A/F's are running? Also I'm digging the 4 door GTI. I currently have an APR stg3 A4, so same family hehe. When ever you get a chance to get some pics I would love to see them.

 

Thanks for the compliments, esp on the GTI. It is an amazing ride, my wife really has it tricked out now. Looks amazing, as you can tell, I am kinda jealous

The thing about the turbo conversion is it involves disconnecting one of the MAP sensors. The ECU then flips into a default map, but this is then a tunable map so the Apexi works great. Jay at Mynes Performance can and does do custom tunes on top of this, but I have nothad time to get the car to him yet. It is impressive that it does run so well with just the default map and the Apexi though!

I do run a Innovate XD-16 standalone AFR on the car. Once I got the apexi tuned my AFRs are running 11.3-11.8 at WOT from 2500-rev limiter. I am using 440cc injectors and have them dialed back between -12 and -30 across the rpm range to achieve that. Below 2500 it does run a bit richer but that is to address the idling issues I spoke of before.

Oh! on that note, I am still running the stock cam with the stage 1 Fireballed! head and it idles VERY smoothly with it. I debated going to the schrick or a custom ground cam, but for the extra investment I didn't think the 10-15whp was really worth the money and the sacrafice in idle smoothness.

 

I agree about the cam, from what I've read the stock profiles work wonders under more boost. That AF sounds great. I could be very very happy with that lol. What does it run under normal driving conditions? Also, what 440's are you using? Do they have a good spray pattern for the engine? When you say below 2500rpm it runs rich...how rich below 10?? If so that's just asking to wash the engine out, especially if that how it is under normal driving, which for me usually doesn't go over 3500 even on the highway...I'm light on the pedal unless I feel spirited hehehe...

 

there will be absolutley no change in idle with the schrick cam.

 

Brian's certainly had significantly "lopier" idle with the Schrick over mine with an identical setup otherwise

I respect a lot of what you offer here Justin, but I have personal experience with this on 2 turbo cars. Maybe it is different with the SC intact?

 

Well, i appreciate the way that you are questioning the comment.

With the 20 cars that i have installed my cylinder head with schrick cam the idle doesn't change one bit. The pickest person would barely be able to tell. The pitch of the exhaust the lope everything is exactly the same.

Also, its not like they are hks 272s in a supra... those will shake your Martini at a stop light.

One thing i have to ask about the lope is... did you experiance this lope when you went turbo only? or when you went to the schrick cam? Also, you turbo guys running aftermarket waterpumps and stand alones, check your vacum and also your tunning... what rpm your car is idleing at etc...

the cam specs on the schrick cam are very mild.

 

Agreed that the Schirck is quite mild.

I did notice that my idle vacuum is different after turbo than before. Now hovers around 12-14 mm Hg rather than the 18 or so I was seeing with the SC 15%/2% setup. Pretty sure I don't have a leak though as boost is solid and holds all the way to the rev limiter depending on where I have the boost controller set. My idle point is right around the 800rpm spot. When the A/C is on it runs around 1000.

I second that diligence about checking lines and pumps though. Things are a bunch more complicated with the electrical waterpump and so forth.

Justin, are you doing custom ground cams or are you using the Schrick setup? I have heard 272s in a turbo VR6 recently and it is a CRAZY lope to the idle. Sounds about like it is gonna stall.

Thanks for the info too

 

You should have heard the 277's I had in my Corrado lol...Those things sounded amazing under WOT, of course I had a lot of headwork too that I am sure helped lol. I love the VR6 and have owned and turbo'd a few in my days lol.