Drivetrain methanol
The biodiesel folks are pretty helpful with finding sources of methanol.
http://www.localb100.com/testbatch/buyingmethanol/
Checking the regional forums for your locality on BioDieselNow.com worked out for me. I ended up finding a local race gas distributor that sold methanol for $3.25/gal.
http://www.biodieselnow.com/forums/d...aspx?GroupID=6
How's the installation on your WI kit coming along?
http://www.localb100.com/testbatch/buyingmethanol/
Checking the regional forums for your locality on BioDieselNow.com worked out for me. I ended up finding a local race gas distributor that sold methanol for $3.25/gal.
http://www.biodieselnow.com/forums/d...aspx?GroupID=6
How's the installation on your WI kit coming along?
just looked at it today. it's late though. i had to do rear brakes and paint rotors plus replaced the 04 harmonic with an 05 (what a difference ) !!! so i'm just planning the install now . gonna need a thicker floor for it for sure . say 3/8 plywood .
That plywood is going to add quite a bit of weight! 
I wedged the tank on the passenger side of the boot (without drilling into the floorboard and strapping it down yet) by spacing out the emergency equipment that are usually kept in there, and no sloshing or shifting in hard cornering. I'm thinking something like these may help:
http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog....2530&SKU=77121
The extra weight will be retained on the passenger rear, instead of distributed entirely along the rear like a piece of plywood.
For peace of mind, though, it's hard to beat fabbing a new floor mat for the trunk.
Let me know if you have a schematic? I'm interested to see how involved it is, since I haven't done any woodworking in a few years now.

I wedged the tank on the passenger side of the boot (without drilling into the floorboard and strapping it down yet) by spacing out the emergency equipment that are usually kept in there, and no sloshing or shifting in hard cornering. I'm thinking something like these may help:
http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog....2530&SKU=77121
The extra weight will be retained on the passenger rear, instead of distributed entirely along the rear like a piece of plywood.
For peace of mind, though, it's hard to beat fabbing a new floor mat for the trunk.
From some crazy looking chick on the corner
I bought mine at a local race shop. They carry it in bulk, so I brought a 5 gallon container in and filled it.
I bought mine at a local race shop. They carry it in bulk, so I brought a 5 gallon container in and filled it.
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That plywood is going to add quite a bit of weight! 
I wedged the tank on the passenger side of the boot (without drilling into the floorboard and strapping it down yet) by spacing out the emergency equipment that are usually kept in there, and no sloshing or shifting in hard cornering. I'm thinking something like these may help:
http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog....2530&SKU=77121
The extra weight will be retained on the passenger rear, instead of distributed entirely along the rear like a piece of plywood.
For peace of mind, though, it's hard to beat fabbing a new floor mat for the trunk.
Let me know if you have a schematic? I'm interested to see how involved it is, since I haven't done any woodworking in a few years now.

I wedged the tank on the passenger side of the boot (without drilling into the floorboard and strapping it down yet) by spacing out the emergency equipment that are usually kept in there, and no sloshing or shifting in hard cornering. I'm thinking something like these may help:
http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog....2530&SKU=77121
The extra weight will be retained on the passenger rear, instead of distributed entirely along the rear like a piece of plywood.
For peace of mind, though, it's hard to beat fabbing a new floor mat for the trunk.
ne of the guys picked up keyed power from the aux. power plug . i tested it and it's a good way to go . i'll check the bently to see if the fuse can take it . there's a 10 amp in the kit so gotta make sure the other fuse isn't too small . which would indicate wires that will be too small . and voltage drop ,then burnt up motor . hopefully it's a 10 cause the wire looked like the same gauge . 


Edit: Just looked in the Haynes manual, and I can't find a wiring diagram that includes the 12V adapter in the trunk.
Last edited by latte hiatus; Jul 2, 2007 at 05:24 PM.
Wow, thanks for the reminder! I hooked up my WI by tapping the 12V switched ignition power for the cigarette lighter in the boot, but it didn't occur to me to find out what the amperage on that line was - I merely operated under the assumption that it was 15A (F32) like the one beneath the toggle panel in the cabin. 
Edit: Just looked in the Haynes manual, and I can't find a wiring diagram that includes the 12V adapter in the trunk.

Edit: Just looked in the Haynes manual, and I can't find a wiring diagram that includes the 12V adapter in the trunk.
that's the same spot . in fact you're probably the guy i'm thinkin' of ; thx !! cool!! if it's 15 up front it's probly 15 out back . nice. i'll drill a hole beneath the false floor to that panel and it'll be invisible . and i think i'll follow the main hot wire to the front as others have done . how'd you run yours? someone on here ran theirs in the cabin . i'm too lazy for that by far .

I ran the wires by following the OEM wiring from the trunk to the positive terminal in front. There was a rubber gasket in the boot by the battery that was perfect for routing the lines under the car - it comes out right by the exhaust in my case, though, so I'll add some heat wrap to the hosing there. Followed the OEM wiring along the driver's side until the driver's front wheelwell, then into the engine compartment by routing the hoses alongside the transmission so that the hoses come out near the TB.
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