That assumes that the factory torques to 22....I dont know that they do. if all the documentation says 18 I would bet that 18 is what is done at the factory. Personally I would lean more toward people not reading a thing and just torquing them to what ever their daddy or grandaddy told them thus over torqing being the issue.

 

IMHO, don't think your going to get anything but frustration from the current dealer. Did the top ring land on #4 break up or melt? Is the bore scored, have you had a look at it?

If the cylinder isn't damaged beyond what a honing can remove you may be able to just replace that piston. If it were me I would look into replacing pistons with forged ones, OEM rod bearings and checking head, block for warp age. Look into wiring in a manual fan switch, complete set of gauges.
The area your in there must be some local independent race shops that could do this for way less than 9K if your not capable or comfortable doing it your self.


OT, on spark plugs, tuls is using 25 ft-lbs, I use 22 ft-lbs for NGK's. My Toyota 2.7L 4 banger specs 14 ft-lbs. < that scares me.

 

I'm waiting to hear from the dealership today weather or not there is damage to the block. The first ring cracked and broke apart. the area between the first and second ring is where the piston damage was. A nice little chunk of piston was broken off. they had most of those parts there for me to see. If all is well with the block that's my plan. put in forged pistons and rods and keep rolling. Also on the list is oil cooler and accusump to maintain oil pressure. The guages will also go in.

 

Sorry to hear about your problems. Your sentence above is incorrect. The JCW pulley is NOT the same reduction as the 15%. Just do a search.

I suggest you check your sources because I believe this is misinformation.I leave it planeguy to explain but I suggest you read https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=49580

Further, if you can find one ... just one MM case where a consumer "won" in court with MM and the part was a "performance" part that the consumer had installed, please provide a URL reference.

Correct So many urban myths are being perpetuated

 

verify that the harness was replaced then buy a short block (junker or whatever) or see if one is available near endyne . then have them do the block and crank . replace the rest of the rotating assly. and enjoy a better engine using yours as a doner for all the bits . if your block is salvageable ,just get it done . but if they didn't do the harness ; you got um .

 

Just a thought.......
I see mentions of "at the track"& "NASA Instructor" in your sig. Think this could be a reason for getting a bad time from the Dealer. All kinds of people read these forums, including Dealer employees. I heard of a kid with a Nissan Sentra Spec V that was in for a second tranny to be replaced under warranty. That is until one of the Parts Dept guys found him blabbing on the internet of all of his street racing "kills". Warranty denied.

Jim
(Yes, That's me below. Waaay out of Warranty )

 

I don't know for sure either. But both sides of this argument make assumptions. What I do know is that Bentley is NOT exact factory specs and just using it to torque the aftermarket plugs may lead to failure and ruined threads. I agree most people don't read and just go to "good and tight" setting. Dangerous, unless you really like doing head work. NOT a barrel of peaches as I have been there.