Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain After intake/exhaust- next mod?

Old Jun 2, 2007 | 10:09 AM
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After intake/exhaust- next mod?

I recently intalled an Alta CAI (2 mos. ago) and loved the results. Last week I got a TC cat-back installed and the car feels even better now. Lovin' it.

I think I've picked up the modding bug, unfortunately... The reason this is not such a good thing is that my car still has a good part of the warranty left, and I don't want to void it...quite yet at least! (believe me, I'd have the pulley otherwise) I know this sentence probably scared away most people here....

What should be my next budget mod- for:

1. power

2. handling

(that won't void the warranty)???
 
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Old Jun 2, 2007 | 10:28 AM
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Old Jun 2, 2007 | 12:13 PM
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I've looked on M7's site and they don't have the USS there. Maybe I missed it... How much does that run?
 
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Old Jun 2, 2007 | 01:00 PM
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Old Jun 2, 2007 | 01:19 PM
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They cannot void your warranty just because you have a pulley installed. You could run into a problem, say if your supercharger failed, they wouldn't cover a replacement, but I've heard of that happening maybe a couple times out of hundreds and hundreds of pulley'd cars.

Heck, my dealer was the one that INSTALLED my pulley!

Get a pulley, stay with a 15%, and you'll be happy!!
 
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Old Jun 2, 2007 | 02:29 PM
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Its funny you mention that your dealer installed it...I've heard that before. For whatever reason some dealers in south FL seem to be really lenient as well. I'll have to check out my dealer in terms of what kind of stuff they put up with.

Thumper- your post is killing me! It seems even more tangible to get a pulley... And don't worry, I won't start asking about which pulley to get, if I get one, because it seems like someone starts a "which pulley to buy" thread every week.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2007 | 03:19 PM
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Outside Philly? Helix is in your backyard! Get over there and go for a ride with Eric, you'll either end up with a 19%... or a twincharge.

Oh, and he can put in the rear sway bar too.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2007 | 03:33 PM
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Once you get your pulley you'll be asking yourself, why did I wait to do this?? I know I did after I got my 15% Alta.

A rear swaybar is another nice option. I love my H-Sport 19mm.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2007 | 04:18 PM
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Power - 15%, definitely. It's the holy three in power mods.

Handling, it's all about the rear swaybar. Camber plates if you're feeling frisky. Springs are mainly for aesthetic value.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2007 | 06:11 PM
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Here's my mod journal at carreview.com
http://reviews.carreview.com/blog/ca...mini-cooper-s/

Rear swaybar is what I would recommend next.

I got the Dinan setup but any 15% pulley is perhaps the next big step.

fc
 
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Old Jun 2, 2007 | 06:32 PM
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Yeah, What they said above! Get the pulley you will be VERY happy with the results. By far the biggest bang for the buck
 
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Old Jun 2, 2007 | 07:22 PM
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Ask your service manager at your dealership how they feel about some mods (pulley etc,) and go from there....
 
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Old Jun 2, 2007 | 07:53 PM
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I think that's what I'm going to have to do. See how flexible the dealer is. If I got a pulley it would be 15%. I don't want to worry about detonation in 95 degree weather, etc.

Swaybar is definitely something I'd like to do, especially since I have a cabrio...lots of body flex. A swaybar increases oversteer, right? How would that affect my driving?
 
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Old Jun 2, 2007 | 08:01 PM
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You would love a 19mm swaybar! Makes the car turn so much better, but not to harsh of a ride... Definately have a chat with your dealer and see what your up against. Dealers views on mods vary widely...
 
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Old Jun 2, 2007 | 08:11 PM
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If you don't want to do the pulley, I vote for lighter wheels and tires. Unsprung weight can not be managed and the difference is amazing.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2007 | 08:40 PM
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A pulley is a MUST imo. I worked at a BMW/MINI store and the store didn't really care about mods that much...but it varies from shop to shop.

I don't think it's fair to say 15% is the best...they are ALL good, just find the only that will benefit YOU the most.

-Cody
 
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Old Jun 3, 2007 | 06:14 AM
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In terms of wear a 15% pulley shouldn't be too bad right? Didn't MINI change the coating on the S/C in 05'?

Would the dealer be able to install their 14% JCW for me? If so, how much would that cost approx?
 

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Old Jun 3, 2007 | 06:28 AM
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All the pullies are fine, it just depends which one suits YOU best. A lot of people have the 15, as do the 17. Just depends what you want, and what kind of driving you do...the 15 would be better suited to the track, where you are always at high RPM's, and a 17 or 19 would be better suited where you shift earlier, or aren't always in the high RPM's like street driving or even drag racing.

As far as the wear goes, some people say the 15's are easier on the engine. And yes they changed the SC I believe in 05'. Not sure what they did though.

-Cody
 
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Old Jun 3, 2007 | 07:28 AM
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Thanks for all the input guys- very helpful!

I have a question about flashing the ECU or reflashing it (in otherwords, keeping the same ECU and improving perf). I don't know anything about this so stick with me. Is this an option at all? If so, to put it quite simply, what do you do? How does flashing it work?

I hope this is clear enough.
 

Last edited by MINIFVR; Jun 3, 2007 at 08:42 AM. Reason: clarify
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Old Jun 3, 2007 | 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by MINIFVR
Thanks for all the input guys- very helpful!

I have a question about flashing the ECU or reflashing it (in otherwords, keeping the same ECU and improving perf). I don't know anything about this so stick with me. Is this an option at all? If so, to put it quite simply, what do you do? How does flashing it work?

I hope this is clear enough.
There are several vendors / tuners that will "flash" the ECU and do various things to the programming. In general, you're updating the "maps" - data areas of the ECU that define such things as spark timing, etc. under varying conditions.

The mechanics of how this is done vary based on the approach you take. With MTH, for instance, you send a list of all mods you have, as well as what octane gasoline you will run, along with a download of your exising ECU programming you obtain by using software on a PC and a cable plugged into the OBD-II port. They modify the "program" and send it back to you, for re-uploading to the car's ECU. With Lucky Dog Garage, you send them your ECU (removed from the car) along with the specs - they re-program and return it to you. For the JCW tune, the dealer just uploads a "standard" JCW file to replace the "stock" one. This file "assumes" certain JCW mods have been done also. Another approach is to have a tuner connect a programming computer to your car on a dyno and actually tune your specific car's maps "live" based on how it performs on the dyno under various conditions.

There are many debates in these hallowed halls about the relative value of the various "standard" tunes. In general - think of these as designed to make your combination of components and mods work better together, or replacing some of the generalized assumptions about how you drive and "feed" your car with specifics about how you REALLY do (for example, I favor performance over MPG, and I'll always run 93 octane gas - the stock programming can't assume either of these things). So I have the MTH tune - and I think it makes my car run much "smoother" - but doesn't necessarily add a lot of "power" to what I already got with my pulley, intake, exhaust, etc. Some tuners swear by the amount of "power" they can add. Maybe they do. But Caveat Emptor.

Rule number one - if you don't know where you're going, you won't know when you get there. ALWAYS start by having a GOAL for what you want to accomplish in tuning your car. Do you want a track beast? An autocross machine? A good, fun daily driven street car? Do you want something that scares your wife, or something she's comfortable driving? (my case) Do you want raw performance at any cost? Or "better" performance while maintaining refined smoothness and driveability? Do you want it to "look cool" by lowering it? Do you understand the other trade-offs that occur when you do this? (it gets complicated to do it right) Once you have a goal, research all your options and build a PLAN for your mods - work with your local guru mechanic or club members to help validate this plan. Then execute it - and order matters - the tune should follow the other engine mods...

I was given this sage advice by others - and they were RIGHT. I've had GREAT success getting EXACTLY what I want with Blimey. But you'll read horror stories of folks who get into "bolt on another mod" disease and are frequently unhappy with the results...
 
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Old Jun 3, 2007 | 10:30 AM
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Thanks for taking the time with that post...very down-to-earth. How much $$$ are we talking about here? How much would the JCW flash cost? Dyno tune, MTH? (approx)? Thanks in advance!
 
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Old Jun 3, 2007 | 10:52 AM
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MTH tuner file - approx $400
JCW tune - varies - some dealers won't do it without a JCW "package" , others charge $100-$150
Lucky Dog - $350 (I think...)

Dyno tunes vary considerably - a few hundred bucks and up. You get what you pay for typically in this area...
 
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Old Jun 3, 2007 | 11:00 AM
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Would getting the JCW flash be detrimental to my car's performance w/o having the 14% pulley and 380cc injectors? I have intake/exhaust right now, btw.

To answer your question in the longer post above, I'm not looking for a track beast or a drag car. I'm looking for a good, daily driven street car. I don't just 'commute' though, that's for sure. Spirited driving is a daily occurance.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2007 | 11:10 AM
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Old Jun 3, 2007 | 11:35 AM
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Not to doubt anyone, but why stay away from the JCW flash? What does it give you, or not give you, that's worth staying away from?
 
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