Ordered two of these 1" x 1" x 4.5" heatsinks...I'll attach them to the intake manifold and see what happens...

 

If you cut the shroud like this:

Use a tray like Dr Phil that ataches to the cut shroud

Only make a plate that fits across the top of the cut shroud that includes the Docs piece, allow for the hose to go under the plate & divert air to the engine

Then fence off different sections of the plate, IE - AGS area or where you want air & build some fence for the radiator below ala Dr Phils post - air leakage. There may be too much air taken from the 2 radiators if there is no box. When I refer to a radiator box, this does not mean an offical sealed box but rather some type of collection fence to keep as much air to the radiator as possible ( BMW thought enough about it to seal off the shroud. We need to know more from Dr Phil on this issue since it's warm where he is, hot might be a better description ).

You can see in Sids pic that there is plenty of area to devide as needed with various fences without the time spent to make compound bends. I'v been thinking about this pic all day & how much sealing there would need to be done so that the best air would be available for the vaioius issues. Not there yet. I need some time so I can get to work on the car......... No time for the wicked I guess.

TonyBs pic shows how much more air is available over the stock "S" when the areo grill is used ( I like that there is some air diversion on the radiator ).

When removing the rubber seal from the radiator shroud there is a noticeable difference in under hood temps with the areo grill but only when the car is moving. In heavy traffic, with hot weather, the system recovery is slow, enough that the ruber seal, indeed, makes a difference.

Venting on top helps also with an exit or flow path, from my readings (need to qualify my statements). As I said, I think in another thread, the cowl grilles, with bonnet liner removed (and more so with the rubber stripping also), act as an escape for hot air, paricularly when motionless.Today 03:23 PM

As TonyB points out with this statement, the sealing part, where & how much.

 

the fan for the radiator moves air yes? so is it possible to have it run more frequently and move more air across the engine ? lower the set point a bit ?

 

I'm getting to it Steve...

 

Heat sinks are an interesting idea Sid. How will you attach them (what type of adhesive)?

 

I'm thinking JBweld...any suggestions?

 

Whatever you use you need to make sure that it conducts heat well, otherwise the heatsink won't really do you any good. I wonder what kind of adhesive they use when they attach them in computers and what not.

 

I believe they're kinda like a jell substance...not really good for bonding...I think JBweld is dense enough to conduct heat and the material needed would be relatively thin anyway...

 

epoxy with silver shavings in it.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835100005

not sure how hot it can get before it melts... i've personally pushed it to 90 deg celcius on some parts of my motherboard and video card memory.



edit:

 

ooo...Thanks much

Just exactly how much glue is in this kit? I can't tell by the picture...I need enough to cover two 1" x 4.5" surfaces...

 

I too was thinking of JB, but it's darn near permanent though. It might conduct quite well, but I'm not sure. Wouldn't take much experimentation to find-out...

That epoxy seems to be the way to go!

 

If the heat sinks work well, I'm sure there might be other applications. Like... on the SC, horns and IC...

 

Well...if nothing else, they'll look COOL...pardon the pun...

 

I just went and looked at my tubes of it. I'd say that it will cover the bottom of both of the heatsinks with a layer sufficient to use them on computer applications. With that you want it ample to make contact but thin enough to not waste energy.

You'll probobly want a bit more so I'd honestly get 2 if you are going to order. The stuff is cool as heck to have around. It's the real deal epoxy and dries hard. Conducts electicity to a small degree as well. This stuff, jb weld, duct tape and a hammer and i could piece a house back together. lol

 

Sold...I'll order two...Thanks for the tip

 

Here's a revised version of mine, i'm not done with it yet though. I need to fence it off like Steve is referring to, and paint it black...

 

OOOOOOOOoooo...I hate you and your sheet metal bench...

 

Joaquin, what about engine movement? I left about 3/4" between my diverter and the manifold and the diverter is bent down to let air flow under the manifold. Are you running an engine damper? Before I put mine on, the engine moved 3/4" totally--now it moves about 3/8".

And are you going to add sides to the diverter, like I have? What about air that will leak out the sides?

Lookin' good, my man!

 

Where's yours? I've been waiting all day to see it.
I know you've been working on another project, and it looks pretty sweet!
Did you get my voicemail?

 

Thanks, there is a gap there, you just can't really see it. Engine movement under acceleration is away from the IMD, I drove all the way home from the shop without any new noises, so I think it's good.
Yes, I have a damper, I actually have the very first one from LordOfTheFlies(i'm the one who showed him how to mount it with no brackets)but, I think I may experiment with different style damper.
I am going to fence off the IMD, I just have to figure out the best way to do it.

 

Joaquin, looks good! I like the bleeder access, the overall more finished look. I look forward to playing some catch-up with you all! I'm thinking about wrapping the hose to better retain the heat within it, and still have a diverter for improved directional flow for the intake manifold.

I'm really intrigued by the heat sink! For validation that this works, I'd say get two indetical chunks of scrap metal, the only difference is that one will have a heat sink. Heat each one up with something like a torch, or leave them both in the afternoon soon, and see what kind of delta there is between the two. Maybe even have a fan to provide some airflow as well...

 

You mean the vise on the floor?

My cell is dead...please PM me?

 

Thanks Tony. I like the idea of wrapping the hose, let me know if you are thinking of using something specific.

It is rather interesting, and the only way to know is to try. I'm sure Sid will let us know how it works.

 

No, I mean your version of the IMD. I've been waiting to see your design.
PM sent.

 

Sid, or anyone else, what do these heat sinks cost, and are there some types better than others, or better for this application?

I think it will be hard to discern if this works on our MINI, with so many dynamics at play. I really hope we can get some proof with some simple, controlled testing, like what I provided in my previous post...