I concur in that so long as coolant temps are in check, and with you (Phil) in a hot climate (and w/ Summer approaching), and track near by, time will tell. For a couple extra bucks, putting a lip or lips on the radiator will ensure that more air that encounters its face will go through it. I cut some strips of paper in order share a visual of what I mean. Unfortuantely it was so bright outside, and a pocket pc camera, the quality sucks...



This protrudes forward the radiator well over an inch on the top, and side... I actually was able to close the bonnet with no contact.

I then peaked behind the foam and feel that it can get removed also. Behind the high part of the foam is the top of the radiator fan. Not sure of any issues that might arise with having this exposed...

 

What about having some sort of Areogel product on the underside?

 

Thanks for the visual, Tony. I would like to see it with a higher quality pic.
I am going to look into removing the foam and opening up the back of the shroud.

I realize you are concerned with airflow through the radiator, so what is with all the bugs and birds stuck in the fins?
Check out the pics in the first post, that little piece of screen has been on my car since I bought it, and extends down just a little below the radiator/condenser. The bugs hit it, die, dry, and fall off.

 

I'm hoping Peter may come up with something.

 

The screen is the way to go... I just need to make the time to clean it, but need to get some screen first. Too many projects...

I'll attempt a better photo tonight, if not too late.

 

There is one other thing I thought that I posted here, but it must have been a PM to DrPhil.
The recovery of the IATs after getting off the boost is just amazing. I can literally just watch the temps keep dropping until the difference between the IAT and the ambient temp is in the single digits.

 

Tah Da...



I have a gasket on the bottom of my DFIC diverter so the air path are already divided when the bonnet is shut...

Here are a few good tools to use...I first roughed out the trim with a dremel 1/8" grinder...once the majority of the trim was removed, I used the same bi-directional carbide 1/2" diameter die grinder bit that I used to grind out my header flanges and finished the trimming...it does a surprising job without further need for sanding...unless your more **** than I am that is...

One more thing I'm going to do is to slightly shorten the right radiator tubing as forcing it down causes a slight kink...shortening it will aleviate this stress...

My neighbors must think I like torturing my Mini with cutting tools or something...picture the sun setting and everyone's inside while I'm out on the driveway with the die grinder GGGGRRRRRRRRNNNNNNNNNNNNNN...


I'm waitn for the first guy to ask about what happens when it rains...it gets wet...what else?

 

Sid, that looks great!! I agree that there's absolutely no concern that air is being robbed from the DFIC when the bonnet is closed. (btw, are those leading edge 'foils on the DFIC is see? Of course they are...and they look great!)
Now your next task is to manage all that new air flow! Boy, with the AGS, you've got some serious work to do. I would start fabbing up some diverters to sit on the radiator shroud that you've ground to nothing. Maybe split some air to the right and some to the middle, and then block off the air to the left that really doesn't help anything.
I like that you got the hose really low.
I did some finishing on my diverter and painted it black, just so it looked more like the shroud than sticking out like dog's danglies...
I'll post photo tomorrow.

cheers,
phil

PS Sid, I notice you're still running Alta IC boots--you really should run M7s as they are *way* easier to install and fit so much better, IMHO. and what would Peter say--he once gave me grief for posting a photo with the Alta logo showing before I got the new boots...

 

Thanks Phil...them leading edges are kind gifts of a certain Doctor...sorry I didn't get them on sooner

Do you agree the right hose needs to be shortened or do you not have the slight kink problem as I do?

The Alta boots are pretty tough to install/remove...I'm hoping Peter will fill me in on the his better boots...if he hasn't already orphaned me...

As I'm making more power with the RMW head, I'm becoming more concerned with the density of the DFIC's top/bottom material in regards to heat soak recovery...I had thought of removing them at one point but that would leave the delicate fins vulnerable...I understand that Peter is working on a new DFIC revision so I hope that will aleviate the situation...Bob has discussed adding cooling fins to the top plate (which can be thinned) to aid the heat dissapation...but I'm hoping Peter's new revision will eliminate the need for us to tinker with this nice design and I very much would like to stick with the DFIC...

 

Sid: Yes, my hose is kinked (oooh, kinky...) but my diverter is holding it down just enough that it doesn't affect the temps. Your hose in the photo seems lower than mine, especially at the right. I think that once you have your diverters installed you can adjust the hose so that it sits slightly higher. I'd try to avoid cutting the hose if possible.

And I've been following the HEAD thread, even though I ran out of popcorn...and you seem to be making a lot more power which does bring the efficiency of the DFIC into question. Apart from the possibility of a new revision (woohoo!) it's really a matter of how low an approach you want to achieve and what it means to the overall performance of your car. I doubt that lowering the approach from 20F to 15F makes much difference when you have water/meth injection and a monster head...

I realized on Sunday that all my mods have been pretty much for my own satisfaction since my ability to actually drive my car really fast on a tight short race course is woeful...
I'm going to give up modding my car (tomorrow) and concentrate on more track time.

PS Sid, you'll notice both Joaquin and I sealed the MAP sensor with rubber tape. Just in case it rains...

 

The MAP sensor's not water proof?

 

Haha, good one! I'm sure it's water proof, but remember we're talking OCD here...and those colored wire sections look bad in your photo compared to the black doohickey in my and Joaquin's photos!
Your car is "the reference point" Sid, and it's your responsibilty to maintain that standard! (Of course, in my case, there are standards above which I will not go...)
cheers,

 

It's NOT water proof!!! Now you tell me...I've been hosn down my motor bay routinely...

 

Juices are flowing....

I will work on a commercially viable product IE. no need to cut the crap
out of the car.. I will give Dr. Phil and partsman a call and discuss their approach to the problem.
Maxmini and I are leaving early next week for business in Germany and England (Very exciting stuff) so I will work on the solution when we get back.

Peter
M7 Tuning
562-608-8123

 

Juices are flowin...that's kinky Peter

What about me, the orphan? You're not gonna call me...

I've been looking at the flat surface the intake manifold presents...what about afixing a finned heat sink to it ala computer CPU?

 

Nice job, Sid. It looks a hell of a lot cleaner than mine, but i'll be fixing that this week.

With the rad hose, don't cut too much off the end as the diameter decreases going towards the water pump. I also have a slight kink, but I may replace part of that front section with aluminum pipe.

Definitely wrap the connector and wires to the MAP sensor, just as added protection against moisture.

 

Thanks buddy...You're a sucker for bad pictures I was referring to the end which connects to the bleeder...I'll take a pic of the kink tomorrow...small but easily remedied

 

But it's so much fun to cut stuff up with power tools!

Seriously, an aerogel blanket that will drape over the SC and water pump, and extend half way up the SC outlet horn will probably work.

 

That's what i'm talking about too, if you notice the hose is a bigger diameter where it pushes onto the bleeder, then gets smaller as it goes towards the water pump. There is only so much you can cut before the hose won't fit on the bleeder tube anymore, so be careful.

 

Sid....

How can I forgett you...you know my number.

peter

 

Don't have time tonight but I'll put up a diagram of an aluminum heat shield plate that will go over the complete trimmed frame which will cover up the grinding and shield the hose from the intake manifold (like what you guys are proposing) if you get the picture...if not wait till tomorrow...

How's that for runon sentences...he he heh

 

Say it isn't so, Phil. Maybe give up modding temporarily?

 

Man, that kinda sounds a lot like what I was thinking the other day, can't wait to see it.

 

any pics of the hose will be super useful! I cutht the shroud today and grinded most of it, got some alm, for the diverter and hope to finish it tomorrow and have pics. glad you guys thought of this cause I might have had a brain aneurysm.

 

Whatever one uses to go over the hose, might want to fasten it with something that can be easily removed for quicker access to the bleeder and for future hose replacement...

Look forward to more advances in the coming days!