Launch Technique
#1
Launch Technique
Just wanted to take a poll of how everyone "gets moving" at the drag strip.
I do a small burnout to just heat the tires a little and clean the trash off.
I normally rev up to about 4,000 RPM (holding the car in place with the e-brake) and dump the clutch. I do this with falken azenis sports. The size is 215/45/16 with about 24 psi in front tires. This causes a good bit of wheel slip, which I do to keep it from boging.
I consistently have 60' times in range of 1.98 to 2.15.
I do a small burnout to just heat the tires a little and clean the trash off.
I normally rev up to about 4,000 RPM (holding the car in place with the e-brake) and dump the clutch. I do this with falken azenis sports. The size is 215/45/16 with about 24 psi in front tires. This causes a good bit of wheel slip, which I do to keep it from boging.
I consistently have 60' times in range of 1.98 to 2.15.
#3
I have not run the 1/4 mile. The local track where im from is an 1/8 mile but I'm wanting to make a venture to a 1/4 track soon.
Just had a 19% put on and ran a 9.4 @77mph on S lites with BFgoodrich sport tires. I am deffinetly goint to have to change my launch technique. Had terrible 60' foot times with these tires. They went any where from 2.5 to 2.9. Hope to have the azenis on this thursday.
Just had a 19% put on and ran a 9.4 @77mph on S lites with BFgoodrich sport tires. I am deffinetly goint to have to change my launch technique. Had terrible 60' foot times with these tires. They went any where from 2.5 to 2.9. Hope to have the azenis on this thursday.
#4
#5
If you're running street tires with low profile sidewalls (as all coopers will have), there's no need to drop the pressure in the tires. Low profile street tires do not wrinkle like a racing slick or drag radial tire therefore dropping psi only increases drag. Increased drag on the tires will only slow you down on the top end. Try leaving your pressure above 30 psi. You should see higher mph assuming all other factors are the same (temperature, humidity levels, track conditions, etc).
You only need to clean the tires as you come up to the line, no burnouts. Just give 'em a quick spin to clear the debris and any water possibly left on the track from the last car. A big burnout or trying to get heat in the tires is useless on these tires. And you're only putting heat in your engine at the point you least want that to happen.
Go AROUND the waterbox (for those that weren't sure of what to do). Do not drive street rubber through the water. it's only going to get into your tread, sling up in your fender well, and drip on the track for the next car behind you to deal with.
I've not taken the Cooper to the track yet, but will be soon. My Mustang has seen about 200 trips down the 1320. The above comments are tips for ANY car, and is standard practice for street radials.
You only need to clean the tires as you come up to the line, no burnouts. Just give 'em a quick spin to clear the debris and any water possibly left on the track from the last car. A big burnout or trying to get heat in the tires is useless on these tires. And you're only putting heat in your engine at the point you least want that to happen.
Go AROUND the waterbox (for those that weren't sure of what to do). Do not drive street rubber through the water. it's only going to get into your tread, sling up in your fender well, and drip on the track for the next car behind you to deal with.
I've not taken the Cooper to the track yet, but will be soon. My Mustang has seen about 200 trips down the 1320. The above comments are tips for ANY car, and is standard practice for street radials.
#6
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I have the MCSa and the way I have always launched in an auto car is to rev to about 4k rpm with the brake. I mean the brake you hit with your foot. Is this better then using the E-brake or not. I find this to be a quick way for me to launch by just releasing one pedal. What can I say I don't have a clutch and was wondering about this the other day.
Although the brakes seem to have a hard time holding the car when it is in gear and revved to 4k. Any suggested are welcomed.:smile:
Although the brakes seem to have a hard time holding the car when it is in gear and revved to 4k. Any suggested are welcomed.:smile:
#7
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#8
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Originally Posted by RallyMINI
for a CVT the fastest method is to start out in 1st gear manual mode, put yor foot to the detent but dont go past the detent yet, when it reaches 4k-5k flick it over to D and then back to SD and push your foot all the way. DSC off is best
#9
Originally Posted by mdsbrain
I got to try this when my car gets past the break-in period. This swtiching between modes sounds interesting.
Because the CVT only has cones instead of gears, when you do the switch, it JUMPS the revs up quite a bit and literally throws you into your seat and then stays there. I dont know how an auto that shifts gears will handle it...it may just shift up to the next gear instead of the jump up into the high rpm band....let me know how it goes
#10
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Originally Posted by RallyMINI
It may be a bit different with the non-CVT atuo....i dont know
Because the CVT only has cones instead of gears, when you do the switch, it JUMPS the revs up quite a bit and literally throws you into your seat and then stays there. I dont know how an auto that shifts gears will handle it...it may just shift up to the next gear instead of the jump up into the high rpm band....let me know how it goes
Because the CVT only has cones instead of gears, when you do the switch, it JUMPS the revs up quite a bit and literally throws you into your seat and then stays there. I dont know how an auto that shifts gears will handle it...it may just shift up to the next gear instead of the jump up into the high rpm band....let me know how it goes
#11
Originally Posted by stylin99
If you're running street tires with low profile sidewalls (as all coopers will have), there's no need to drop the pressure in the tires. Low profile street tires do not wrinkle like a racing slick or drag radial tire therefore dropping psi only increases drag. Increased drag on the tires will only slow you down on the top end. Try leaving your pressure above 30 psi.
Originally Posted by spillman
I consistently have 60' times in range of 1.98 to 2.15.
#12
Originally Posted by dominicminicoopers
Speaking purely hypothetically here. Is not the lower tire pressure to increase tire patch, hence increasing off the line traction, rather than to "wrinkle" the side walls?
#13
#14
Drag radials will help and get your buddy to video it from the startline 3/4 view and then watch it frame by frame, its amazing what you learn.
Your 60fts are already very good you could go to an msd ign then be able to progam a launch curve in to help you off the line it works for us
http://www.eurodragster.com/santapod...jeff_meads.htm
Your 60fts are already very good you could go to an msd ign then be able to progam a launch curve in to help you off the line it works for us
http://www.eurodragster.com/santapod...jeff_meads.htm
#15
#16
Originally Posted by sndwave
Have you thought about lighter rims? You can drop upto 15 lbs per wheel with a different rim and that could give you a better launch.
I am actually in the process of doing a return style fuel system with a two stage nitrous system. I hope to break 90mph in the 1/8th.
#17
Do you have adjustable suspension?? I was thinking of making some tie strapsto limit the front suspension extension.
Do you have the NX contoller on yours??
Whenever we have 2 staged the Anglia it usually increases the mph but hardly reduces the et we've usually gained 3mph at the 1/4.
I'm out next weekend in our Mini One with a Cooper S engine, quaife lsd and 15 inch Drag radials, it will be intresting
Do you have the NX contoller on yours??
Whenever we have 2 staged the Anglia it usually increases the mph but hardly reduces the et we've usually gained 3mph at the 1/4.
I'm out next weekend in our Mini One with a Cooper S engine, quaife lsd and 15 inch Drag radials, it will be intresting
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