i am thinking about ordering a PC and the Prima line to do some detailing, but I am a newv to using PC's. I have detailed many cars before but have always done them by hand.

My question, can you remove wax using a PC? Do you just put a MF sock like thing over the pad?

thanks for the help, and DP you've got a big order coming your way soon...

 

Some use their PCDA to remove wax. I think this is how OctaneGuy prefers to remove it. Really though the Prima line is so easy to remove I can't really justify using the PCDA to remove it. I just use a big'ol thick MF and buff it by hand.

 

I just do it by hand... If you wait till the wax cures properly (dusty white in appearance, leaving behind a shiny streak when a fingertip is dragged through the cured wax) then removal by hand is quite easy. If he wax smears instead of lifting easily off, wait another 10-15 minutes and try it again. I remember Octane saying that he does prefer to use a bonnet on a PC for some colors though (black, I think, since it's so unforgiving), as well as some especially soft paints. I think most MINI colors are good to go by hand, though.

 

Thats what i thought. now im really excited to order from DP. id only the weather in cleveland was nicer (trying to snow, but mother nature won't have it) o well. thanks for the help...

 

i do polishing and applying wax by orbital and by hand, but removing
wax is done by hand using MonsterFluffy from DP. it's because
i can apply pressure removing by hand without increasing heat.

i have a wax removal bonnet though just in case i want to do some
light buffing after im done with removing wax by hand. this is useful
especially on dark colored cars where the wax was not applied
evenly and over some vinyl... sometimes wax leaves a smear. i would
not use it on small decals though as it can probably lift the edges.

 

again some good tips. this is by far the best detailing forum i have ever been to. thanks alot

 

glad we can help. please give us tips when you try out new products.

 

Just to add to what people have already kinda quoted me from the past. Removing wax that's properly dried is very easy. The Prima Monster Fluffies are fantastic for removing wax. Less so for removing polish, since sometimes a polish can take more work to remove and it will take a bit more effort using something as plush as the Monster Fluffy. I like Prima's other MF towel--name escapes me right now--but it has a short and a deeper nap on each side--the towel is grey.

Though sometimes it's less about ease and more about how delicate the paint is. So far I've only encountered this on black paint--on the Infiniti G35 paints and Corvette Z06 paints where you polish the paint to such a high degree that even a Monster Fluffy will scratch the paint as you wipe the wax off by hand.

Yes it drove me nuts, but fortunately I'd been there before. Recently my partner polished out a Mosler--I was originally scheduled to help him, but my schedule wouldn't allow it--that's a $180K car--he had the same scratch sensitive issues.

For the Corvette, using a microfiber bonnet to remove the wax prevented any scratches being instilled in the paint. I'd hate to think how the owner will take care of this car though. If rubbing the paint can cause scratches think of what a car wash will do.

Anyways, my Jet Black paint isn't as scratch sensitive fortunately, but it does readily show scratches and swirls very easily, and the paint isn't all that great in the first place. That is, it looks wet and glossy which is fine, but the true finish can be pretty ugly looking up close and in the sunlight. I'm really looking forward to a repaint so I can take care of the paint from day one (I'm the second owner of this MCS).

Richard

 

My only issue with removing dried wax with a Porter Cable and foam pad (and or microfiber bonnet) is residue build up. You need to remember to change the bonnet a few times to insure you wont introduce any new marring.
I also always like to to go over a car with a microfiber with a QD or ISA water mix after the final application of wax or sealant. A 1000 watt halogen unveils all!!!

 

Thanks octaneguy, specifically with the Z06 info because thats one of my first cars im detailing. Will using a PC and bonnet to remove the wax limit the scratches? and if so why? I would think that the possiblity to scratch the surface would be higher with a machine...

 

Read my post above yours.

Check and change the bonnet frequently. I would have 4 on hand for a car the size of a Z06. Keep the halogen focused on your work area and you will see when and if you introduce any marring.

 

Residue buildup is a non issue. The bonnets are reversible. Todays 12 hour detail was a black Lexus RX330 SUV. I used one bonnet to remove all the wax. I did turn the bonnet inside out since it's reversible. I clean my bonnet using my fingernails as I polish.

I would hope that NOBODY QD's over there freshly waxed car. Especially if you're using a synthetic polymer, you don't want to be getting your car wet for atleast 24 hours--to let the polymers cure.

As for 1000 watt halogens that's overkill, I use 50 watt bulbs. 1000 is way too powerful. You go too bright and you blow out the swirls and make it ever harder to see.

Corvette paint is notoriously hard. Sometimes you get dealt a bad card and find that the paint is also scratch sensitive. Of the 3 black Z06's I've worked on in the past couple of months, two had paints hard enough that I had to compound the paint with my rotary using M84 to remove the defects. The most recent Corvette buffout still needed the rotary, but the paint scratched so easily. Using the PC to remove the wax is safer because you don't have 5 pressure points pressing on a towel. The PC has a much larger surface area over your fingers so you can actually still press down and remove the wax without introducing any new defects.

I say this is completely unnecessary. Two reversible bonnets at most are needed. Btw, I may still go over the paint with a Monster Fluffy after using the PC if only to provide a light buffing to remove any residue I may have missed with the PC. However, I barely apply any pressure, just the weight of the towel.

 

To each his own.
For the cost of a MF bonnet, use as many as you need. If you pick up debris that somehow blew on to the surface of your paint while cleaning it, its surely better to change or reverse the surface fo the pad the pad.

QD is a tool, as is a rotary polisher. If you need to use it to remove residue, ala Z6, do it. You cal always pull the car into the sun or under th halogens and check for smearing.

50 watt lights? I'd love to see some pics your work. How does that work on a white or black car? Does the light get lost?

I set the light at about 2 feet behind and 1 foot from the quarter panel at the same height as the top of the panel to start,at about a 20 degree angle to the paint. It's similar to the angle you would use to set your reflection board up when doing paintless dent removal. I stack the two lights vertically so there is light shed over the entire panel. I'll take a picture to post, setting the light this way generates a nice effect on the high points of swirls, kind of like shadows and you just need to knock them down with the polish. This usually generates enough light to get me to the middle of the rear door. I reposition the light frequently when polishing, but it is never at close to 90 degrees, that would wash out the purpose. I also use a little Brinkman handheld when I need to focus on an area or can get the light where I need it.

 

This statement is a little inconsistent for Zaino users since the Zaino QD (Z-6) is to be used between each coat of either Z-5 or Z-2. Additionally while using Prima's Epic it is recommended by none other than the Goddess of Detail (Heather), to use Slick when encountering any residual Epic that is a bit stubborn to remove. I use Slick as the final application after waxing to remove any dusting and to generally add just a tad more shine. I think for Zaino and Prima, their respective QDs are formulated to work over their respective waxes and so it is safe to use.
Of course I'm not using a dripping towel full of Slick, just a light mist on a MF is all that I use so the wax never really gets "wet" from the QD.

just my $0.02 on that.

 

MimiMaybee - you speak the truth.

Additionally, I always spritz my application pads with a QD. (Z6, Z8, 425)

 

Aww I see. I stand corrected then. Zaino users should follow the directions. Zaino isn't a product I use, and for most other synthetics, you don't want to get the wax wet after you've buffed it off. Slick is a very different product from any of the QD's I've tried. It leaves a slippery residue on the paint from each application, so I can see how it can complement Epic.

Richard

 

Sure thing
BEFORE

AFTER


BEFORE

AFTER



BEFORE

AFTER


BEFORE

AFTER





My personal lighting tool


I used two 250 watt lamps for lighting the sides of the paint








See more at www.ShowCarDetailing.com

 

Oh my buffer trails Batman!
That before of the black E-class (or is it a C) is a train wreck!!!

 

Somebody should be arrested for this!

Nice pics Richard (nice work and results too)!

 

Richard, amazing as always. I like the detail on the lift...got to get me one of those. Does that fit on your trailer?

 

dangola. i like that restoration of that old trunk.

 

Haha well if you liked the trunk, maybe you'll like the hood???

BEFORE




AFTER

 

man. i wish i was half as good as you guys. those msut have taken ages... thanks for all of the help. i think i may order up some prima stuff tonight and possibly a PC, although i don't fully know how to use it yet. any other suggestions???

 

Yes don't forget the DVD in the NAM store. If you're serious about getting into the business, starting with good technique will take you farther and faster than guys who've been messing around for 20 years.

http://store.northamericanmotoring.c...t=0&bestseller

In fact, the DVD should be your first purchase, then buy the PC and pads and chemicals--you will be so much better informed once you've seen how the systems work.

 

This is not a bash.

Those Camaro pics look like repaints.

What was your process???

And I hope you got at least $1,500 for that job.......